Muriatic acid versus dry acid to lower alkalinity

Problems relating to pH and total alkalinity.
Increase ph, increase TA. Reduce pH, reduce TA.
pH chemistry advice and techniques for the pool.
Riopaloma
I'm new here
I'm new here
Posts: 2
Joined: Tue 23 Apr, 2013 16:32
My Pool: 15,000 fiberglass using a sand filter. The pool was already in the home that I purchased 3 years ago. I estimate the age of the pool to be around 20 years old. I had to replace the pool light due to the fact that is was leaking, I then repainted the pool with dura seal paint. It looks great now. Living is south Texas, a pool is almost a necessity.
Location: San Antonio, Texas

Muriatic acid versus dry acid to lower alkalinity

Postby Riopaloma » Thu 25 Apr, 2013 14:59

I have a 15,000 gallon fiberglass pool that I just finished painting with dura seal epoxy paint. It looks great and as new again. I filled the pool and took samples to my regular pool supply store. They tested the water and sold me what I need - and told me what to add to start up. Also provided me with a readout of the chemistry results. Basically the instructions said to add the shock, the chlorine tablets and a gallon of instant conditioner. Also sold me 2 gallons of muriatic acid and told me to add about 1/4 gallon of that to start and wait 4 hours. Then test the water and add 1/4 gallon more. Keep doing this until the desired alkalinity is reached. I followed these directions upon arriving home. After adding everything. I sat down and read the written instructions given to me at the time of purchase. Plainly stated on these directions was that I should not use muriatic acid in a fiberglass or a painted pool. Which mine is both. So I am reading other stories online about fiberglass pools and muriatic acid. One recommendation was to dilute it in a bucket of water and add it very slowly. I have dry acid on hand, but I am not sure if I can add the dry acid after I have already put some muriatic acid in the water. It has been 24 hours since I put the muriatic acid in. The alkalinity still reads high. I am hesitant to put more muriatic acid in due to the fiberglass and paint concern. Should I just dilute the m/a and continue using it to lower the alkalinity? Or should I and can I use the dry acid considering I have already put some m/a in? Any recommendation or advice?


Denniswiseman
Pool Industry Leader
Pool Industry Leader
Posts: 2592
Joined: Tue 06 Sep, 2011 05:48
My Pool: 10k inground fibreglass, Telescopic Cover, Hayward Powerline pump, Quality filter with glass media, 27kw output heat pump, K-2006C test kit
Location: United Kingdom

Muriatic acid versus dry acid to lower alkalinity

Postby Denniswiseman » Thu 25 Apr, 2013 16:14

I Have a fibreglass pool and use muriatic acid without any problems
Dilute it, spread it around and then brush the bottom or use an automatic pool sweeper to pick it up and recirculate it
Bear in mind that 15k of water would leave it very diluted and you are neutralising some of the alkalinity
TSH Tech

Muriatic acid versus dry acid to lower alkalinity

Postby TSH Tech » Fri 26 Apr, 2013 01:07

Riopaloma wrote:I have a 15,000 gallon fiberglass pool that I just finished painting with dura seal epoxy paint. It looks great and as new again. I filled the pool and took samples to my regular pool supply store. They tested the water and sold me what I need - and told me what to add to start up. Also provided me with a readout of the chemistry results. Basically the instructions said to add the shock, the chlorine tablets and a gallon of instant conditioner. Also sold me 2 gallons of muriatic acid and told me to add about 1/4 gallon of that to start and wait 4 hours. Then test the water and add 1/4 gallon more. Keep doing this until the desired alkalinity is reached. I followed these directions upon arriving home. After adding everything. I sat down and read the written instructions given to me at the time of purchase. Plainly stated on these directions was that I should not use muriatic acid in a fiberglass or a painted pool. Which mine is both. So I am reading other stories online about fiberglass pools and muriatic acid. One recommendation was to dilute it in a bucket of water and add it very slowly. I have dry acid on hand, but I am not sure if I can add the dry acid after I have already put some muriatic acid in the water. It has been 24 hours since I put the muriatic acid in. The alkalinity still reads high. I am hesitant to put more muriatic acid in due to the fiberglass and paint concern. Should I just dilute the m/a and continue using it to lower the alkalinity? Or should I and can I use the dry acid considering I have already put some m/a in? Any recommendation or advice?
TSH Tech

Muriatic acid versus dry acid to lower alkalinity

Postby TSH Tech » Fri 26 Apr, 2013 01:09

^^ Well that didn't come out right... Take 2!!

Riopaloma wrote:I have a 15,000 gallon fiberglass pool ......... Plainly stated on these directions was that I should not use muriatic acid in a fiberglass or a painted pool. Which mine is both.

You will be fine using liquid Muriatic Acid, as long as you run the filter system after you pour it in, to help swirl around the acid evenly in your pool. I've poured liquid acid in many fiberglass and epoxy painted pools with no affects.

Riopaloma wrote: Should I just dilute the m/a and continue using it to lower the alkalinity? Or should I and can I use the dry acid considering I have already put some m/a in? Any recommendation or advice?

Strange that it is high. The common problem with fiberglass pools is the Total Alkalinity seems to drop out rather quickly. This is a natural occurrence when using chlorinating tablets. The acid content within the chlorinating tablet leeches out into the water and with fiberglass, since it has nowhere to go and no plaster that naturally leeches alkaline Ph, swings a fiberglass pool to a low TA.

If you want to use a dry acid, for whatever your reasons, may I suggest a product I've been using in my clients pools for some time now with positive results. The product is called No Mor Muriatic Acid (yes, Mor is incorrectly spelled on purpose). Let me explain how it works in laymans terms; It's a slow Ph changing acid that does not immediately "flash" the pool to a rapid low Ph or burn. It slowly lowers the Ph and alkalinity. The way you apply it is to pour a small measured amount into your skimming net and mix it around in the pool water until it dissolves. One bottle is equal to a gallon of liquid acid. It's safe with salt chlorine generators, will not calcium the plates as regular run-of-the-mill dry acid does. I couldn't find a stand alone photo on the net, but this pool link I do not endorse. I have never bought from this site, but using their photo to show as an illustration what the product looks like.
http://www.saveonpoolsupplies.com/Pool- ... atic-Acid/

If this product does not have appeal, and you would rather use liquid acid, then you are still safe doing so. Hope this helps!
Riopaloma
I'm new here
I'm new here
Posts: 2
Joined: Tue 23 Apr, 2013 16:32
My Pool: 15,000 fiberglass using a sand filter. The pool was already in the home that I purchased 3 years ago. I estimate the age of the pool to be around 20 years old. I had to replace the pool light due to the fact that is was leaking, I then repainted the pool with dura seal paint. It looks great now. Living is south Texas, a pool is almost a necessity.
Location: San Antonio, Texas

Muriatic acid versus dry acid to lower alkalinity

Postby Riopaloma » Fri 26 Apr, 2013 16:27

Denniswiseman wrote:I Have a fibreglass pool and use muriatic acid without any problems
Dilute it, spread it around and then brush the bottom or use an automatic pool sweeper to pick it up and recirculate it
Bear in mind that 15k of water would leave it very diluted and you are neutralising some of the alkalinity

Thank you for the information. I will continue with the muriatic acid - diluted in a bucket of water. And keep the pump running. I was just concerned about the newly painted fiberglass. That was a lot of work - and I just didn't want to chance messing that up soon. Thanks again for your advice. Riopaloma.
Denniswiseman
Pool Industry Leader
Pool Industry Leader
Posts: 2592
Joined: Tue 06 Sep, 2011 05:48
My Pool: 10k inground fibreglass, Telescopic Cover, Hayward Powerline pump, Quality filter with glass media, 27kw output heat pump, K-2006C test kit
Location: United Kingdom

Muriatic acid versus dry acid to lower alkalinity

Postby Denniswiseman » Sat 27 Apr, 2013 04:20

If you are concerned about it, you could dilute it down further by using more buckets

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