How do I keep my pH stable?

[Oregonmommy]

Chlor. 2-3
TA- 80
Ph- 6.8 -7.2 closer to 7.2
How do I keep my pH stable. I added some pH plus and got it at 7.4 but after a few days it dropped back down even with everything else staying in normal range.

[Denali]

Chlor. 2-3
TA- 80
Ph- 6.8 -7.2 closer to 7.2
How do I keep my pH stable. I added some pH plus and got it at 7.4 but after a few days it dropped back down even with everything else staying in normal range.

Hi,

Are you using chlorine tablets in your pool?

[Oregonmommy]

Yes I use the 3 in 1 3" tablets.

[Denali]

Yes I use the 3 in 1 3" tablets.

The tablets are acidic and lower pH so your pH is likely to always be on the low side. 7.2 is OK but 6.8 isn't. You can try turning your return lines up to help aerate the pool. This will cause the pH to rise so may balance out the tablets.

Sounds like you're using test strips to do your testing? A drop based pH test would be better for you so you get a more exact reading. If you have any water features (waterfall etc) in your pool you can use those to help keep pH up.

[chem geek]

Increase the Total Alkalinity (TA) level as well. If you use pH Up (Arm & Hammer Super Washing Soda; soda ash; sodium carbonate), then this will raise both the pH and the TA. You didn't list your Calcium Hardness (CH) level. If this is a vinyl pool and the CH is low, then raising the TA quite a bit higher will not be a problem and will help compensate for the acidity of the Trichlor.

Note that with continued use of Trichlor, you will build up Cyanuric Acid (CYA) in your pool. For every 10 ppm Free Chlorine (FC) added by Trichlor, it will increase CYA by 6 ppm. Even with a low 1 ppm FC per day chlorine usage, using Trichlor alone will raise the CYA by over 100 ppm in 6 months unless there is significant water dilution. The higher CYA will require a higher FC or use of a weekly algaecide (e.g. PolyQuat 60) or a phosphate remover to prevent algae growth, and may require frequent shocking and/or use of a clarifier to keep the water clear as the chlorine takes longer to oxidize bather waste when the FC/CYA ratio is lower.

[Oregonmommy]

Would it be better then to use the chlorine granuals?

[Denali]

Would it be better then to use the chlorine granuals?

The two most common granular chlorine products are di-chlor and cal hypo. di - chlor also increases CYA levels like the tablets do. Cal hypo will increase your calcium hardness over time.

Liquid chlorine or bleach is what I like to use. Cal hypo is probably your best bet if you need to use a granular.

[czechmate]

Question for Richard:

I am trying to find what will benefit the new Diamond Brite plaster for along run and also make it easier to maintain the pool. I have added 55lb of boric acid to a new fill of 2100 gallons. Now I have also found that I can raise the TA by adding Borax.
My question is about the SALT CONTENT in the pool water.
Is it good to have some or should I just disregard it?
What would be the benefits to a swimmer or to the maintenance of the pool if any?
Thanks,
Ivan

[czechmate]

There was a typo: the pool is 21000Gal.
Ivan

[chem geek]

Ivan,

You need to have enough calcium, in combination with TA and appropriate pH, to have the saturation index near zero in order to protect your plaster surface (the Diamond Brite rock aspect doesn't matter in this regard). Use The Pool Calculator to calculate dosages and for the saturation index.

Don't raise the TA too much if you are going to be using chlorinating liquid or bleach as your primary source of chlorine. If your pH tends to rise, then your TA is too high and vice versa.

Since chlorine will tend to increase the salt level over time, I wouldn't try raising it. Some people add salt for a saltwater pool feel without the actual salt cell equipment and you could certainly do that if you wanted to (around 1500 ppm is what most people shoot for without an SWG cell), but only dilution will reduce the salt level and if you have porous stone material for coping or hardscape, you might need to seal it (splashed out salt can be an issue, depending on the amount, whether it rains, etc.).

Richard

[czechmate]

Richard,

Thanks for the reply. T
The reason I have mentioned using Borax to raise a TA was that a I had a TA 90 and could use raising the borate level due to dilution by backwash.
My real question was about benefit of adding salt in the pool without an SWG.
I have a travertine tile coping, so the splashing would probably have longterm adverse impact.
I just wanted to know, if the salt content helps the water chemistry maintenance or maybe protect the water from a freeze in a case of power failure.

Thanks,

Ivan

[chem geek]

The salt doesn't change the water chemistry maintenance except that is slightly lowers the saturation index so needs some combination of a higher pH, TA or CH to compensate. The salt level is way too low to affect freezing of the water by any amount that matters. It really would just be there because you thought it felt better or was closer to the salinity of the eyes.

[czechmate]

Thanks a bunch, Richard.
Ivan

[ian76]

Hello everyone.
I'm very new in this..hope you guys can give me some advise here.
What i have as follows:
1ft (Length) x 0.5ft (w) x 1ft (H) tank - A very small tank i know =)
Water level - 0.5ft with 1 water filter pump.
10 tiger barb.
A plant attached to a 7cm drift wood.
Two had full of crushed coral.

Problem:
I had made 50% water change twice and the pH measured drop to 7 to 7.2
however after less then 2 hrs pH reading keep rising to the higher level of Alkaline - Twice.
Try to stable it by a few drop of pH down liquid it went to 6.8 but after an hour it goes back
to higher pH 7.8 I do not know what is my KH level as i don't have the KH measurement kits.
Should i remove or add any things i.e the plant or coral to bring it down?
(I know tiger barb will do well in more acidic water).

Fish behavior - They seems to be resting at the bottom most of the time or next to the water filter.



Regards:
iAN