total and free chlorine 10

Chlorinating, maintaining the right chlorine levels,
chlorine problems. Dichlor, trichlor, cal hypo, bleach,
granules, chlorine pucks and chlorine sticks.
Linda79
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Posts: 1
Joined: Sun 14 May, 2017 11:52
My Pool: 24,000 gallon inground Jandy salt filter concrete

total and free chlorine 10

Postby Linda79 » Sun 14 May, 2017 12:06

Please Help
Th 500
TC 10
FC 10
PH 7.8
TA 180
Stabilizer 100
How do I fix this? Is it safe to swim? Our first year owning a pool what test kit should I be using?


Denniswiseman
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My Pool: 10k inground fibreglass, Telescopic Cover, Hayward Powerline pump, Quality filter with glass media, 27kw output heat pump, K-2006C test kit
Location: United Kingdom

Re: total and free chlorine 10

Postby Denniswiseman » Sun 14 May, 2017 17:09

With a CYA of 100 your chlorine level should be between 11-13 as in Chlorine / CYA Chart
Totally safe to swim but you would be using a lot of chlorine
You really need to get your numbers in line with these Pool Levels
The best test kit is a Taylor K2006C or a TF100
I assume you are using pucks because of your high CYA, you are better using liguid chlorine which doesn't add any CYA
For every 10 ppm Free Chlorine (FC) added by Trichlor, it also increases Cyanuric Acid (CYA) by 6 ppm.
For every 10 ppm FC added by Dichlor, it also increases CYA by 9 ppm.
For every 10 ppm FC added by Cal-Hypo, it also increases Calcium Hardness (CH) by at least 7 ppm
Liquid chlorine (bleach, sodium hypochlorite)
Muriatic acid (hydrochloric acid) to lower pH and TA
Bicarbonate of soda to raise TA
Aeration will raise pH
To lower CYA a partial drain and refill. To get down to 50ppm you would need to drain 1/2 the water if it's safe to do regarding your water table
Dennisshero
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gresesomo
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Location: USA

total and free chlorine 10

Postby gresesomo » Tue 22 Aug, 2017 19:40

I think if you have the free weights, you have everything you need. You can get a total gym if you like, but a coathook would probably be cheaper, and just as functional.

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