I just got a test kit for free chlorine, but I'm a bit uncertain what it means.
I have 24' round pool with (I think) 14,000 gallons of water.
The free chlorine took 11 drops to turn water back to clear and it said times that by 3, so 33? But I do not know what that means.
I could not get a reading for combined chlorine. What does that mean?
PH 7.4
and cy acid was 30.
My pool is absolutely clear for the first time this summer. It was not covered over the winter so it was full of leaves when we opened it two months ago. I finally resorted to floc on 4 days ago, vacuumed on waste 2 times (we had 2 days of torrential down pours so rain water helped topped it off) and put "socks" on my filter basket to catch any debris. I started out with bleach, which did what it always does and created a milky white. But this time pool would not clear after 2 weeks--but I was only testing total (?) chlorine (not free and combined). I got a new sand for filter after about 4 weeks of being open, thinking that was the problem. After about 5 weeks, pool was green and PH high so I dumped (literally) in algaecide. It became white and a bit clear, but still pretty cloudy, just not milky.
I use the tablets to keep stable chlorine and haven't had a problem in the last 4 years I've used them.
So I'd appreciate advice on using the testing kit, interpretation of my results, and if anyone has thoughts as to why it's taken 8 weeks to clear, I'm open. Thanks!
Jane
test kits
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- Pool Industry Leader
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- My Pool: 10k inground fibreglass, Telescopic Cover, Hayward Powerline pump, Quality filter with glass media, 27kw output heat pump, K-2006C test kit
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Re: test kits
What testing kit are you using?
The fact that you have been using chlorine tablets tablets for the past 4 years makes we dubious that your CYA is only 30
For every 10 ppm Free Chlorine (FC) added by Trichlor, it also increases Cyanuric Acid (CYA) by 6 ppm.
For every 10 ppm FC added by Dichlor, it also increases CYA by 9 ppm.
For every 10 ppm FC added by Cal-Hypo, it also increases Calcium Hardness (CH) by at least 7 ppm
If your testing is correct 33 is 33PPM but pH can't be checked at such a high chlorine level
You should be concerned with free chlorine and combined chlorine that totals up to total chlorine
Dumping algaecide in is not the answer
It seems you have an algae bloom and need to Slam with reference to Chlorine / CYA Chart but first we need correct numbers
The fact that you have been using chlorine tablets tablets for the past 4 years makes we dubious that your CYA is only 30
For every 10 ppm Free Chlorine (FC) added by Trichlor, it also increases Cyanuric Acid (CYA) by 6 ppm.
For every 10 ppm FC added by Dichlor, it also increases CYA by 9 ppm.
For every 10 ppm FC added by Cal-Hypo, it also increases Calcium Hardness (CH) by at least 7 ppm
If your testing is correct 33 is 33PPM but pH can't be checked at such a high chlorine level
You should be concerned with free chlorine and combined chlorine that totals up to total chlorine
Dumping algaecide in is not the answer
It seems you have an algae bloom and need to Slam with reference to Chlorine / CYA Chart but first we need correct numbers
Re: test kits
Thank you for the reply. After I did the algaecide, I got concerned about the amount I added so I did several days of refilling and releasing on waste which is probably why CYA is probably at that level. Would that make sense?
The water is actually crystal clear right now after 2 months of battle.
I'm just not sure what the numbers mean, and why I could not get a combined chlorine number.
Taylor K-2006 is the kit.
So you are saying 33 is high for my chlorine? Is it safe to swim?
Perhaps I didn't test correctly.
With the K-2006 kit, testing for free chlorine, I filled up the PH cylinder to 25. But it was also said you could do it at 10. I didn't understand how to decide. Would that have affected my numbers?
I'm going to get on youtube and see if there are any videos using the kit.
The water is actually crystal clear right now after 2 months of battle.
I'm just not sure what the numbers mean, and why I could not get a combined chlorine number.
Taylor K-2006 is the kit.
So you are saying 33 is high for my chlorine? Is it safe to swim?
Perhaps I didn't test correctly.
With the K-2006 kit, testing for free chlorine, I filled up the PH cylinder to 25. But it was also said you could do it at 10. I didn't understand how to decide. Would that have affected my numbers?
I'm going to get on youtube and see if there are any videos using the kit.
Re: test kits
Okay, I needed glasses. I was supposed to times by 11 drops by .2 which would be
free chlorine at 2.2 ppm
combined chlorine 0
PH 7.4
free chlorine at 2.2 ppm
combined chlorine 0
PH 7.4
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- Pool Industry Leader
- Posts: 2592
- Joined: Tue 06 Sep, 2011 05:48
- My Pool: 10k inground fibreglass, Telescopic Cover, Hayward Powerline pump, Quality filter with glass media, 27kw output heat pump, K-2006C test kit
- Location: United Kingdom
Re: test kits
You have a decent test kit, the same as mine except i have the K2006c which has larger reagents
Draining and refilling would definately lower your CYA to a more manageable level
You won't get a CC reading if you don't have any which makes sense if you have done multiple drains and refills
Re the 25ml versus the 10ml sample the only difference is accuracy. the 10ml sample will only be to .5ppm but use less reagents (which I use). The 25ml sample will be accurate to .2ppm but use more reagents. You used 33 drops against 4 or 5
Check out Pool Levels to decide what level to keep your pool at
Have you checked out the OCLT (overnight chlorine loss test) to see if you have defeated the algae
Use these chemicals to balance your water
Liquid chlorine (sodium hypochlorite or plain bleach)
Muriatic acid (hydrochloric acid) to lower pH and TA
Bicarbonate of soda to raise TA
Aeration will raise pH only
You seem to be doing quiet well except for not using reading glasses
Draining and refilling would definately lower your CYA to a more manageable level
You won't get a CC reading if you don't have any which makes sense if you have done multiple drains and refills
Re the 25ml versus the 10ml sample the only difference is accuracy. the 10ml sample will only be to .5ppm but use less reagents (which I use). The 25ml sample will be accurate to .2ppm but use more reagents. You used 33 drops against 4 or 5
Check out Pool Levels to decide what level to keep your pool at
Have you checked out the OCLT (overnight chlorine loss test) to see if you have defeated the algae
Use these chemicals to balance your water
Liquid chlorine (sodium hypochlorite or plain bleach)
Muriatic acid (hydrochloric acid) to lower pH and TA
Bicarbonate of soda to raise TA
Aeration will raise pH only
You seem to be doing quiet well except for not using reading glasses
Re: test kits
Thanks again for your help. The link posted can't redirect (it says no route found). I'll be wearing my glasses for sure.
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- Pool Industry Leader
- Posts: 2592
- Joined: Tue 06 Sep, 2011 05:48
- My Pool: 10k inground fibreglass, Telescopic Cover, Hayward Powerline pump, Quality filter with glass media, 27kw output heat pump, K-2006C test kit
- Location: United Kingdom
Re: test kits
I just clicked on the link and it worked fine from here, try this. http://www.troublefreepool.com/content/ ... ded-levels and if that doesn't work copy and paste into your browser
If you go to http://www.troublefreepool.com and search for pool levels you should also get there
There is a load of info on that site which would benefit you
If you go to http://www.troublefreepool.com and search for pool levels you should also get there
There is a load of info on that site which would benefit you
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