Hello, looking for help with continuous 0 chlorine reading over the past month. Started with a green algae bloom which resolved with triple shocking with liquid chlorine. pool remained cloudy but normal color for a few weeks then eventually turned clear. since then have triple shocked with liquid chlorine twice, 12 lbs of hth chlorine shock, 12 lbs of non chlorine shock, and have an in line hayward auto chlorinator turned to the max. even tried replacing that to see if that could be the issue and also placed chlorine pucks in the skimmer baskets in case the chlorinator was bad. chlorine checks always read 0. have taken samples to the pool store and always told other chemicals normal.
Taylor test kit results:
FAS/DPD: free chlorine 0; combined chlorine 0.4; total chlorine 0.4- this is with a new full autochlorinator using 3in pucks set to highest flow speed.
pH: 7.4
TA: 90
CA hardness: 440; saturation index 0.15
CYA;: 60
42K gallon pool with sand filter that runs 24/7.
only one time did I ever have a detectable chlorine reading and that was 20ppm total chlorine but only for an afternoon then back down to 0.
pool still crystal clear. no significant discolorations on the floor/wall, no clear algae contaminants that I can see. polaris vacuum runs daily.
I had a pool co come out and they said the sand needs to be replaced on my filter which I am scheduled for, not sure if that can affect the chlorine.
I am thinking of just closing the pool I'm at a loss! Thanks for your help.
chlorine = 0
-
- I'm new here
- Posts: 1
- Joined: Wed 01 Sep, 2021 13:52
-
- I'm new here
- Posts: 5
- Joined: Thu 22 Jul, 2021 21:58
- My Pool: 100m x 80m, commercial
- Contact:
Re: chlorine = 0
Friend,
The possible reasons for 0 chlorine
1. Too much organic matter (ammonia, nitrogen, urea, etc.) in the water
2. Excessive algae (MOSS)
and are you still having chlorine to disinfect your swimming pool water? as compared to ozone, it is not that environmental and easy to cooperate. If your swimming pool is commercial, I suggest that you can try ozone disinfection replaceing chlorine
The possible reasons for 0 chlorine
1. Too much organic matter (ammonia, nitrogen, urea, etc.) in the water
2. Excessive algae (MOSS)
and are you still having chlorine to disinfect your swimming pool water? as compared to ozone, it is not that environmental and easy to cooperate. If your swimming pool is commercial, I suggest that you can try ozone disinfection replaceing chlorine
-
- Pool Industry Leader
- Posts: 1175
- Joined: Thu 29 Apr, 2021 00:43
- My Pool: 12000 gallons vinyl liner,
Re: chlorine = 0
There is no triple shock, shock is a process you hold shock level until complete
I may not give you the answer you want to hear, but I will give an honest opinion of your situation as you decribe it.
-
- Pool Industry Leader
- Posts: 2592
- Joined: Tue 06 Sep, 2011 05:48
- My Pool: 10k inground fibreglass, Telescopic Cover, Hayward Powerline pump, Quality filter with glass media, 27kw output heat pump, K-2006C test kit
- Location: United Kingdom
Re: chlorine = 0
Stop using pucks they add CYA
Just use Liquid chlorine (sodium hypochlorite or plain bleach)
Excessive CYA renders your chlorine ineffective and you have to use more to get the same sanitation
For every 10 ppm Free Chlorine (FC) added by Trichlor, it also increases Cyanuric Acid (CYA) by 6 ppm.
For every 10 ppm FC added by Dichlor, it also increases CYA by 9 ppm.
For every 10 ppm FC added by Cal-Hypo, it also increases Calcium Hardness (CH) by at least 7 ppm
To reduce your CYA you have to do a partial drain and refill
Continuous use of Trichlor/Dichlor will raise your CYA which means you have to raise your chlorine level as well
Use these common products to balance your pool
Liquid chlorine (sodium hypochlorite or plain bleach) Liquid chlorine only adds salt
Muriatic acid (hydrochloric acid) to lower pH and TA
Bicarbonate of soda to raise TA
Aeration will raise pH only
Soda ash will raise pH and TA
Replacing sand will not increase FC
Run through the Slam process (Shock Level and Maintain) with relation to Chlorine / CYA Chart and Recommended Pool Levels
With a CYA of 60 you need a Slam level of 24ppm chlorine
When you had the high reading you should have kept it up (Shock Level and Maintain)
Just use Liquid chlorine (sodium hypochlorite or plain bleach)
Excessive CYA renders your chlorine ineffective and you have to use more to get the same sanitation
For every 10 ppm Free Chlorine (FC) added by Trichlor, it also increases Cyanuric Acid (CYA) by 6 ppm.
For every 10 ppm FC added by Dichlor, it also increases CYA by 9 ppm.
For every 10 ppm FC added by Cal-Hypo, it also increases Calcium Hardness (CH) by at least 7 ppm
To reduce your CYA you have to do a partial drain and refill
Continuous use of Trichlor/Dichlor will raise your CYA which means you have to raise your chlorine level as well
Use these common products to balance your pool
Liquid chlorine (sodium hypochlorite or plain bleach) Liquid chlorine only adds salt
Muriatic acid (hydrochloric acid) to lower pH and TA
Bicarbonate of soda to raise TA
Aeration will raise pH only
Soda ash will raise pH and TA
Replacing sand will not increase FC
Run through the Slam process (Shock Level and Maintain) with relation to Chlorine / CYA Chart and Recommended Pool Levels
With a CYA of 60 you need a Slam level of 24ppm chlorine
When you had the high reading you should have kept it up (Shock Level and Maintain)
Who is online at the Pool Help Forum
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 8 guests