Pool won’t hold chlorine / traces of sand

[Teapot1]

Sorry there’s a typo in my numbers, probably changing this entire thread, sorry. My CYA is a 72 not a 7. Which would be considered high right? I’m aiming for 20-50 CYA?

Ah ha, yes it does, as Dennis has described how to correct it I'll say no more.

[jdg81]

Appreciate you checking in on me though.

Went to the pool store who’s system (print out) said 72 was “good’’ and spoke with them. The settings in their system are set to print out “good” for CYA ranging from 30-200!!!!

So glad I found this forum.

[Teapot1]

Probably good for them, just think of the upselling opportunities to cure green pools when all that is really needed is a partial drain and refill.

[Denniswiseman]

To get it down to about 50 you will need to drain down about 30%
Pumping to waste through the skimmer will only reduce it slightly, then you refill and start draing down the already party diluted water. It will take ages and be wasteful (Unless you can pump to waste through a main drain)
I would go for a submersible

Yes use bleach. personaly I would only use the feeder whilst you are absent so you are still chlorinating the pool, otherwise you will be in the same predicament again

[jdg81]

I’m able to dump via main drain. Dropped water to the 3 (2nd from bottom) screw last night and refilled to appropriate level on skimmer plate. Dumped 2 gallons (25k gallon pool) of liquid chlorine in and I’m still showing zero. I’ve read this isn’t a one and done process.

I believe you’re saying to continue to drain and add chlorine each night until I’m able to hold chlorine. Is this correct?

[Denniswiseman]

No drain and refill then check for CYA
When you have your desired CYA level
Check the SLAM level of chlorine for your CYA and maintain it. This could be 2 or 3 times a day for some days before you do a overnight chlorine loss test (OCLT)

[jdg81]

Finally!!!!

Took about 4 partial drains, went to 3rd screw (2nd from the bottom) on skimmer face plate. Used the main drain via waste setting on multi port.

I’m not sure what my current CYA level is (ran out of reagent) but it was lowering about 8-10pm per partial drain before the final one. Started at 76, guessing I’m in between 35-40 now as the pool is holding chlorine.

As much as I appreciate the advice of not using tri chlor via chlorine feeder, rather use liquid chlorine I went back to tablets. I’m aware they contain CYA but the feeder is there for a reason, I’d like to use it. This is the first season (2nd year) it was recommended I use conditioner. Going forward I’m hoping if I open low (CYA) my tablets will add CYA getting it in range and I can continue to monitor throughout the summer. If I get too high I now know what I need to do. Thoughts?

BIG thanks to teapot and Dennis on their advice. You both have been able to solve what 3 pool shop’s couldn’t. Seems this is a common issue, maybe they should all consider replacing their staff.

Things I’ve learned this season:

1) Most essential chems to keep pool level’s in check can be purchased at the dollar store (sodium bi carb, sodium carb, bleach and borax)

2) Pool shop’s are open to sell products and make money. They aren’t always right. Check here 1st

3) TEST TEST TEST myself, use pool store results for comparison.

[Denniswiseman]

Don't guess your CYA as each drain down and refill weakens it so you will be lowering it less. Test
This is the first season (2nd year) it was recommended I use conditioner.
Are you adding conditioner as it is CYA
The thing about tablets is that they take time to dissolve so you don't know correctly what your chlorine level is whereas liquid is instant
You can safely swim up to slam level for your CYA
You are now aware of how CYA affects your pool
Keep up the good work. Maybe you can help others with the same problems.

[jdg81]

Thank you! I have another test kit on the way and will test CYA then.

Was told to add CYA at open, tested at an 18, makes sense. From 6/6 - two weeks ago I went from 18 > 57 > 30 > 76 > “unknown” but holding chlorine currently. I’m testing (printouts) about every two weeks with the pool shop.Comparing their numbers to my eye (reagents). It’s been a mess, just learned importance / effect of CYA from teapot and you last week.

I Comprehend SLAM about 50%, little more digging and I think I got it. Am I gonna have to add liquid chlorine (6-8 gallons) to my pool 2-3 times a week? Why hasn’t CYA ever been mentioned (levels) in my pool for almost 2 seasons? Previous owner installed tri chlor feeder for a reason?

Not doubting the method, I’m just trying to get a full understanding of the process. Happy to learn!


Hoping this thread helps others.

[Denniswiseman]

Use Pool Maths to work out how much to add
You need test results to determine your start there's a Now and Target

[jdg81]

This is SUPER helpful! Thank you.

[Teapot1]

Trichlor feeders are added for convenience and because its an easy sell for a pool shop, they sell on how easy it makes pool ownership whilst not telling (often because they dont know themselves ) the problem they are creating for owners (CYA) that they mis diagnose and can sell a huge anount of magic problem solvers. (Teapot is ex industry) you could buy a basic chlorine doser for liquid chlorine and then have an easier life.

[jdg81]

Everything you just said seems frighteningly correct. At this point though I’m convinced the pool store’s in my area are completely clueless. Unless I actually caught them trying to scam customers with their testing system passing CYA levels of 30-200 off as “good”

[jdg81]

I’m assuming something like this (though it’s expensive) would work fairly early with my current feeder’s “plumbing”?

https://www.hayward-pool.com/shop/en/po ... ms-i-cglfs

[Teapot1]

Yes but also:
https://images.app.goo.gl/2NG9KBd7cVT9C2wd7

Regulator Pump Dispenser Redox SEKO Dynamic Chlorine https://amzn.eu/d/eomtqDM