Intex 8110 Chlorine Generator Fix

Bolson31 · Postby **Bolson31** » Sun 03 Jun, 2012 13:54

I was able to fix it. I did what the book called for which is basically closing up both ends of the unit where the water flows through and then filled up the cell unit with kitchen grade vinegar and let it sit for about an hour. After that I flushed it out with water. After that I noticed a lot of salt still built up on the titanium plates which are located right after the flow sensor. The vinegar did not get all the salt off so I used the end of a clothes hanger to chip the salt off. Worked ever since. I assume I will have to clean it again but it is a very easy fix. Not really a fix, just regular maintenance. Hope it works for you.

dlls22sport · Postby **dlls22sport** » Sat 07 Jul, 2012 02:01

I had this same problem until I cleaned the cell and copper plates removing all the calcium build up.I stopped running it during the day when its getting direct sunlight and it works like new.

dckrtny · Postby **dckrtny** » Wed 11 Jul, 2012 13:58

Does anyone know if you can gert a replacement transformer for the 8110 generator?

dckrtny · Postby **dckrtny** » Wed 11 Jul, 2012 14:00

HAving same problem with salt level code . Took apart and found the transformer is burned out.

Grandoak · Postby **Grandoak** » Mon 23 Jul, 2012 22:22

You can't get parts from these things from Intex. For the most part when it comes to pumps and saltwater chlorine generator, Intex is about as helpful as teats on a bull.

It seems that they would rether cell you a complete unit than provide replacement parts (Cells, impellers, etc.).

Wouldn't be surprised if it was all built in China and the folks stateside are clueless on the techincal details of what they sell.

Roxinator · Postby **Roxinator** » Sun 29 Jul, 2012 00:17

The post about reversing the polarity cord WORKS!
THANK YOU SO VERY MUCH!
I've been struggling with this problem for 4 years, always ending up buying a new unit.
THIS WORKS YEAH!!! simple!!! WOW! THANKS AGAIN! Happy swimming everyone!

cfar · Postby **cfar** » Fri 03 Aug, 2012 07:29

You think by now, they would come out with one that fixed these issues..... I have just lost my second one, just after warranty expired... Go figure...... I will try the rewiring... thx for the help

RudyN · Postby **RudyN** » Fri 10 Aug, 2012 15:17

cfar wrote:You think by now, they would come out with one that fixed these issues..... I have just lost my second one, just after warranty expired... Go figure...... I will try the rewiring... thx for the help

Did the 'rewiring' help and fix the issue?

RudyN · Postby **RudyN** » Mon 13 Aug, 2012 10:26

I'm trying to understand the Intex 8110 SWG controller circuitry and came across U5 which I'm troubled with. Unfortunately, I'm unable to read the markings on the IC and cannot figure its functions. Does anyone have any inside what this IC is and/or its function?
Help is appreciated,
RudyN

morganman310 · Postby **morganman310** » Mon 13 Aug, 2012 13:07

I had the same problem. Something that worked for me to fix the 91 error was to take a flat metal ruler and slide it between the two silver plates that run through the pipe. One side was so clogged that I had to apply pressure to remove the salt/buildup. It now works fine. (Be sure to unplug the power supply.)

RudyN · Postby **RudyN** » Wed 15 Aug, 2012 14:27

dckrtny wrote:HAving same problem with salt level code . Took apart and found the transformer is burned out.

Since a correct replacement transformer for the Intex system is not available (at least I couldn’t find any), here is another option:
• Buy a single transformer 18V/10A (Digi Key # HM538-ND), or for hotter climates like Arizona, I’ve opted to get a 18V/13.8A (Digi Key # 237-1351-ND) to reduce the stress on the transformer due to higher ambient temperatures.
• Buy a single transformer 10V/2A (Digi Key # HM514-ND).
• Buy a suitable box (weather resistant) to fit both transformers, some wires (cut off the original power cable from the bad Intex transformer and reuse it) and some hardware to mount everything.
Assemble everything as outlined below and connect the output wires to the electronic control station:

: Intex Transformer Substitude; Schem_A.jpg (38.03 KiB) Viewed 9162 times

Turn the system on and everything should be working as normal.
Good luck!

khaimera · Postby **khaimera** » Wed 29 Aug, 2012 10:22

I have a quick question which may seem dumb. Many people suggest I reverse the plug on the cell (put the plug on upside down), but I'm not sure what this means. Does this mean that I take the black wires out of the copper cell, flip them around, and then attach them again. I'm really confused.

Thanks in advance

RudyN · Postby **RudyN** » Thu 30 Aug, 2012 09:28

khaimera, no question is 'dumb'!
Anyway, what people suggested is to reverse the plug (big black one) on the electrolytic cell, not the one on the copper cell. I personally disagree with this action since the unit reverses the polarity automatically to minimize build up (see Owner's Manual. page 21).
For my own experience (mostly bad ones at the beginning, I didn't keep up with the pool water chemistry, e.g. pH, alkalinity, etc.), best advice is to keep the pool water chemistry up to the required levels, and clean (dissolve calcium deposits) the electrolytic cell with white vinegar every time the code 91 comes up. I have to do this every two to three weeks in the summer time (hot climate here in Arizona!)

Good luck!

chadwinkler · Postby **chadwinkler** » Tue 04 Jun, 2013 10:28

Anyone have any issues with a led that has burned out still seems to be produceing chlorine just doesnt light up the green light. Wondering if it is a simple fix or not. Intex claims to have to purchase a whole control pad module. Any advice?? thanks

RudyN · Postby **RudyN** » Tue 04 Jun, 2013 12:36

chadwinkler wrote:Anyone have any issues with a led that has burned out still seems to be produceing chlorine just doesnt light up the green light. Wondering if it is a simple fix or not. Intex claims to have to purchase a whole control pad module. Any advice?? thanks

Sorry for the late response...
If this is the 'CHLORINE' indicator, it is actually a green Light Emitting Diode (LED) mounted on the control pad printed wiring board (PWB). If you know how disassemble the unit, this PWB is removable and the LED (identified on the PWB as ‘LED2’) can be removed/replaced by means of soldering. A replacement (simple green) LED can be obtained from Radio Shack for a few $. Only one thing to take care of is to install the new LED in the correct (same) polarity.