Goldline "Aqua-Rite" salt chlorinator problems

[Ed F]

I have had a Aqua Rite system for several years in a 28000 gal pool. As the cells get older it will give out a false salt level reading and keeps getting lower until it will shut the system down saying low salt. This happens right after you warranty runs out. The whole cell isn't bad it's just the salt sensor. I know the Aqua Rite engineers could fix this problem if they wanted to. If someone can figure out how to bypass the false salt reading the cell will still make chlorine.
Ed F

[Susan]

Have you checked the pressure on your pump? (On my pool is should be 20 or so, 40 is too high.) My Design-Rite salt chlorinator shows no flow when there is too high pressure in the pool pump. Also, it seems my chlorine system doesn't work right when other readings are off. Of course salt, but also alkilinity

[malfield]

My T Cell lasted 9 years with no trouble until the beginning of the new swim season when it wasn't generating chlorine and the error message said "check cell." Cells don't wear out. The plates get covered with minerals and cease to conduct. All you need to do is soak the cell in a 20% solution of pool acid and wait until the fizzing stops. Usually 2 to 3 minutes. Then rinse and replace. I'm an engineer who used to own electroplating shops. When plating slowed down or stopped, usually it was just the anodes with mineral build up. We either soaked them in acid or scraped and brushed them to remove the oxides or chlorides. No big mystery. Don't believe anyone who tells you that the cells "wear out."

[USUBMARINER]

I had problems with my cell too. It seems like every 2 years they go bad. I got tired of paying money to get it replaced. I am an engineer, so I started studying how they work. It seems that the root of the problem is the temperature sensor at the cell. Check the temperature by pressing the button next to the display. Use a thermometer in the pool to check the water temperature. Is it off by more that 5 degrees? If it is, then you salinity will be wrong and it will call for more salt. The cell will shut down automatically. To overcome this situation I open my cell and cut the two wires on the side of the cell (red and blue). These are the temperature sensor wires. I installed an 8.5 K ohms resistor between the two wires. This will give you a forever temperature of 86 degrees. After that, the cell started working properly. Since I have a fixed temperature now I used salinity strips to keep track of the salt. This worked for me. If you want to do it, go ahead at your own risk. Other that this, there is no other way around it. I heard from other people having the same problem.

Is your cell still running good without replacing it? How did you install 8.5 K ohms resistor? Was it blue and red connected together with 1 resistor or was it 2 resistors going back to the temp sensor?

Thank you in advance ! ! !

[Ed F]

I had problems with my cell too. It seems like every 2 years they go bad. I got tired of paying money to get it replaced. I am an engineer, so I started studying how they work. It seems that the root of the problem is the temperature sensor at the cell. Check the temperature by pressing the button next to the display. Use a thermometer in the pool to check the water temperature. Is it off by more that 5 degrees? If it is, then you salinity will be wrong and it will call for more salt. The cell will shut down automatically. To overcome this situation I open my cell and cut the two wires on the side of the cell (red and blue). These are the temperature sensor wires. I installed an 8.5 K ohms resistor between the two wires. This will give you a forever temperature of 86 degrees. After that, the cell started working properly. Since I have a fixed temperature now I used salinity strips to keep track of the salt. This worked for me. If you want to do it, go ahead at your own risk. Other that this, there is no other way around it. I heard from other people having the same problem.

I am having the exact same problem with my Goldline T15 Turbo Cell is the resistor a 5 watt or 10 watt resistor?

Thanks
Chuck

I am having trouble with low salt reading on my Aqua-Rite cell this is my 3rd one that has gone bad right after the warrenty rauns out. Does any one know which wires inside the cell go to the salt sensor? There is 3 wires one red one blue and one yellow. I read where a guy said he put a resistor betwwen the red and blue wire that fixed his false tempature reading. So if I put a resistor betwwe the red and yellow wire would that fix my false salt reading?

[Jimbo]

Thank You Pool Guy for the important info on how to calibrate. I had called Goldline and hinted that my unit might need recalibrating due to the fact it showed 1700 salt content and I Knew it was 3900 because I had it checked with strip and by a pool company. All the rep from Goldline would tell me was I needed to replace cell. Before today I would have recommended Goldline because they did replace a unit that was defective without question but now I'm wondering who's minding the store. In my case the reset worked perfectly. I think the problem occured due to a power surge or close lighting strike.

[railroadjas]

After adding salt, or draining water, how long should I expect to wait until an accurate reading registers on my Aquarite machine? Thank you!

[Michelle C]

Where can you purchase parts?

[CGPoolman]

Michelle,

Depends on what part(s) you need. You can get a rebuilt cell or circuit board here for a pretty good price:

https://www.saltsolutionsinc.com

If you need something else, I would give them a call and see if they have it.

I order from them often, and never had an issue.

-CG

[chisa]

My no flow light is flashing?

[MarieCW2000]

I replace my T-15 cell and the inspect cell light is still on solid not blinking..please someone tell me what my next step is to figure this issue out...thanks

[mbscott]

I have a aquarite system. I have replaced the board and the cell and it worked fine for a week. Now it is locked on 4100 and will not reset. Actual salt level is 3000. Where should I be looking

[CGPoolman]

MBScott,

If you haven't tried this already, you can try to re-calibrate your salt reading. It may take a few tries to make it work, but it is the best suggestion I can offer if your board and cell are both new.

With the pump running, take the power switch down to the “Off” position, and then back up to “Auto”. You should hear a click within 10 or 15 seconds. When you do, press the diagnostic button five times in a row. The system will go through a recalibration process.

Wait until the numbers stop changing. If the system settles on or near a number that is close to what you believe to be the salt level in the pool, slide the power switch up to “Super Chlorinate”, then back down to “Auto”. This will lock that number in as the new average salt reading.

If the system settles on a number that is unrealistic, there is something wrong with either your system or your cell. The most likely issue is that your salt cell needs to be replaced. It could also be that the board in your power center needs to be replaced. At this point you will want to call Hayward at (866) 429-7665. Their tech support team will usually be able to help you determine which part needs replacement. They will need the serial number from the inside of your control panel door (located under a bar code). And the install date of your system if you know it.


Marie,

If the cell isn't causing your problem it could be your circuit board inside the control box. You can take the front panel off and look for any fried capacitors or any obvious visible damage. If you don;t see any you may want to have a tech come out and test it.

-CG

-CG

[aceman]

Folks -

I have a 4 year old cell, T-Cell-15. Its connected to a gold line PS16 controll panel. There is no diagnostic button (you have to toggle through options to get to diagnostics).

My cell stopped working a few days ago. When i go to the diagnostics menu, it states salt level very low, chlorinator is off. If i hit the "+" button while in diagnostics, the cell turns on for appx 15-20 seconds, and the salt reading steadily goes from appx 3000 to 1400-1500, and then automatically turns off. during this time, i see voltage/amp readings that look to be in the correct range.

Recalibration is something i'd like to try but not sure how i do it given i don't have a diagnostic button to hit 5x.

Any thoughts?

thx

Aceman

[CGPoolman]

Hello Aceman,

I'm not familiar with the PS-16, but I was able to track down an owners manual that has a section on diagnostics. I PM'ed you a link for the manual. I hope this helps, sorry I can't be of more assistance.

-CG