Goldline "Aqua-Rite" salt chlorinator problems

MarieCW2000 · Postby **MarieCW2000** » Tue 23 Apr, 2013 10:16

I replace my T-15 cell and the inspect cell light is still on solid not blinking..please someone tell me what my next step is to figure this issue out...thanks

mbscott · Postby **mbscott** » Sat 27 Apr, 2013 08:15

I have a aquarite system. I have replaced the board and the cell and it worked fine for a week. Now it is locked on 4100 and will not reset. Actual salt level is 3000. Where should I be looking

CGPoolman · Postby **CGPoolman** » Sat 27 Apr, 2013 17:03

MBScott,

If you haven't tried this already, you can try to re-calibrate your salt reading. It may take a few tries to make it work, but it is the best suggestion I can offer if your board and cell are both new.

With the pump running, take the power switch down to the “Off” position, and then back up to “Auto”. You should hear a click within 10 or 15 seconds. When you do, press the diagnostic button five times in a row. The system will go through a recalibration process.

Wait until the numbers stop changing. If the system settles on or near a number that is close to what you believe to be the salt level in the pool, slide the power switch up to “Super Chlorinate”, then back down to “Auto”. This will lock that number in as the new average salt reading.

If the system settles on a number that is unrealistic, there is something wrong with either your system or your cell. The most likely issue is that your salt cell needs to be replaced. It could also be that the board in your power center needs to be replaced. At this point you will want to call Hayward at (866) 429-7665. Their tech support team will usually be able to help you determine which part needs replacement. They will need the serial number from the inside of your control panel door (located under a bar code). And the install date of your system if you know it.

Marie,

If the cell isn't causing your problem it could be your circuit board inside the control box. You can take the front panel off and look for any fried capacitors or any obvious visible damage. If you don;t see any you may want to have a tech come out and test it.

-CG

-CG

aceman · Postby **aceman** » Sun 02 Jun, 2013 07:45

Folks -

I have a 4 year old cell, T-Cell-15. Its connected to a gold line PS16 controll panel. There is no diagnostic button (you have to toggle through options to get to diagnostics).

My cell stopped working a few days ago. When i go to the diagnostics menu, it states salt level very low, chlorinator is off. If i hit the "+" button while in diagnostics, the cell turns on for appx 15-20 seconds, and the salt reading steadily goes from appx 3000 to 1400-1500, and then automatically turns off. during this time, i see voltage/amp readings that look to be in the correct range.

Recalibration is something i'd like to try but not sure how i do it given i don't have a diagnostic button to hit 5x.

Any thoughts?

thx

Aceman

CGPoolman · Postby **CGPoolman** » Mon 03 Jun, 2013 08:04

Hello Aceman,

I'm not familiar with the PS-16, but I was able to track down an owners manual that has a section on diagnostics. I PM'ed you a link for the manual. I hope this helps, sorry I can't be of more assistance.

-CG

aceman · Postby **aceman** » Mon 03 Jun, 2013 08:24

CG -

Thanks for the link. I checked it yesterday to no avail. I have a call into Hayward so we'll see how that goes!

I should note i had the water tested, salt reading is appx 3200...my gut is telling me its time for a new cell but i'm hoping the fact that there is voltage/amperage readings is it may be ok.

Aceman

Thompsojrt · Postby **Thompsojrt** » Tue 04 Jun, 2013 15:23

How do I know if the cell is bad? Readings all look good, but my "inspect cell" light keeps flashing.

akpage · Postby **akpage** » Wed 12 Jun, 2013 20:47

I have a hayward swim pure plus. It keeps blowing 20 amp fuses. I replace the fuse and it runs a few minutes and blows again. Any ideas. I did notice there are two yellow wires with brown marks on them (like they are burnt).

bhurlbert · Postby **bhurlbert** » Thu 27 Jun, 2013 11:18

I have a Goldline "Aqua-Rite" salt chlorinator for my 10,000 gallon above-ground pool. I recently cleaned the cell at the start of the season and it seemed to be working fine, giving me good chlorine readings. This is the 4th season with this cell.

However, now I am not getting any readings for the flow section of the display. I do not get any chlorine lights coming on. The only light on is 'Power'. My first suspicion would be the flow sensor? I do not know how to test this? I pulled everything out and it looked relatively clean and free to move and I re-sprayed the cell with water.

Does this sound like it is the flow sensor? I see them online for around $60-$75. I don't want to buy a sensor if that is not likely the problem. Has anyone else experienced the same problem? Could it be the board?

Thanks,
Bill

gnuman · Postby **gnuman** » Sun 30 Jun, 2013 12:06

Hello peeps,

Glad to say this was informative and yet long posting about the issues we suffer from with the Aqua-rite. I have the dreaded Check Salt and Inspect Cell combo. I changed the thermistor today, cleaned the cell as well last week had my water tested and it read 2800ppm. The machine, when doing an instant salt test drops to 1600ppm and the lights show up

I inspected the resistors and changed the thermistor, the chlorinator and t-cell is about 5 years old. How do I know which one is faulty as it seems from everyone it could be the cell but I don't want to end up buying one and getting the wrong part.

Thanks!

Maddogg · Postby **Maddogg** » Mon 01 Jul, 2013 20:31

Yeah, but the hard part, is finding the correct part. If you are in the industry you know where to find them. Us little guys don't have a clue other than to do a search online and hope it's the right part. You have to know the correct part name. :evil:

KMac · Postby **KMac** » Wed 03 Jul, 2013 10:10

For those who have the PS-16 board with no diagnostic button, you need to do the following in order to calibrate the salt reading. Push the menu button until the diagnostic section shows on the screen. Then push the > button on right side and then push either the + or - button. The chorination will reset and stop with a countdown # showing when it will restart. As soon as it hits "0" push the > button again and watch the salt reading start high and come down rapidly. As soon as it reaches where you know the salt level reading is from testing with strip or at pool store, push the + button and it will lock that reading in thus calibrating it.

My problem is I have to do those almost daily as I know the salt reading is high (over 4000) as I was getting a false low salt reading with light on to check cell and kept adding salt before having it tested. It is a T-15 GoldlineTurbo cell between 7 and 8 years old with about 17,000 gallons of water. I have cleaned the cell and calibrated and still get the low salt reading after one day and if i don't calibrate it manually it will usually go below 2500 and chlorination will stop. i suspect i need to replace the cell due to the age. All other readings including temperature seem to be in line.

gnuman · Postby **gnuman** » Thu 04 Jul, 2013 15:40

Maddogg wrote:Yeah, but the hard part, is finding the correct part. If you are in the industry you know where to find them. Us little guys don't have a clue other than to do a search online and hope it's the right part. You have to know the correct part name.

Bigrikfishing · Postby **Bigrikfishing** » Wed 10 Jul, 2013 11:01

I myself have had nothing but trouble with my salt system! I am going to inline chlorinator and be done with the whole freekin mess. Can you guess how much chlorine i can buy to equal the same amount to repair or replace a salt system? You still have to (or are supposed to) check levels weekly.

PGAtkinson · Postby **PGAtkinson** » Fri 09 Aug, 2013 18:27

I have an aqua-rite system it has run ok for 6 years. This week when it started up and it would generate for a short time after low flow cleared and then it would stop generating and blink no flow. I shut it down and restarted it then low flow would clear and it would generate for a few minutes and then check salt & inspect cell lights come in. Salt level was mid range as confirmed at pool store. I replaced the flow switch, same symptoms. I replaced the T-15 cell on the advice of the hayward rep on the phone and the same symptoms again! What is wrong? Is the board bad? It is an Aqua Rite and a T-15 chlorinator.