Goldline "Aqua-Rite" salt chlorinator problems

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Goldline "Aqua-Rite" salt chlorinator problems

Postby texpool » Fri 14 Aug, 2009 15:36

Oh, by the way, the last cell mentioned above that I got 4 years out of, I turned off the system in late October and back on in late march. I think that's why it lasted for 4 years. I live in the Dallas area.

L Neff

Goldline "Aqua-Rite" salt chlorinator problems

Postby L Neff » Fri 14 Aug, 2009 19:44

We have a goldine Aqua-Rite and it not lighting up at all.

We check the power to it and it is fine and we also check the fuse and that is fine too.

Do you think we need to replace the board and which one?

Can't call Goldline til Monday.
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Goldline "Aqua-Rite" salt chlorinator problems

Postby nimeshipatel » Tue 18 Aug, 2009 01:04

hi i have a aquarite goldline salt water chlorine generator that i inherited when i bought the house a year ago and today i found out that the control lights up the check salt solid and check cell lights are both on and the thing is not generating chlorine. what is the problem is it in the controls or the cell. and is there a fix for this.
when i turn it off and back on then it shows geberting for about 2 mins and then the 2 lights come on check cell and check salt
i was going to add salt but luckily i took the sample to a pool store and found out that the salt level is at about 4300 which is high but the high salt light does not light up
just about 2 weeks ago i opeaned the cell and cleaned it with muratic acid solution.
what is wrong
thanks for any help

Goldline "Aqua-Rite" salt chlorinator problems

Postby JHawk » Fri 28 Aug, 2009 12:24

Roy Berry wrote:I have a Goldline, it is reading in metric how do I get back to good old English, also can you fix the flow sensor,
ie, magnet replacement on swing arm.

Hold the diag button for about three sec and then move the on/auto/super chlorinate button up from auto to super chlorinate then back to auto. This should put you into empirical.

Goldline "Aqua-Rite" salt chlorinator problems

Postby JHawk » Fri 28 Aug, 2009 12:34

This is second year with this system.

No problems last year, have not had to add any water in large qty this year to the pool. Any water added is filtered and comes through water softener.

We had the flow sensor go bad in the spring and it was replaced.
Ever since this time, the fibergalss and plastics in the pool will trun brown.

We have used Ascorbic Acid and it removes the "brown" just fine, but will come back a week later.

We have tried chemical/mineral applications to remove the "Brown" from our steps. Will last about a week.

Water test shows it is copper.

Now, this is where it gets interesting. We can treat the water and remove this "Brown". It will stay gone for a week then comes back.

If we leave our Gold Line Acu Rite off, the stain will not return. If we turn the generator back on, and set it to a 40%-50% level, within 4 days it comes back.

I am switching to chlorine tablets this week to see if it stays away.

We've been dealing with this since May, and I think it has to do with the salt chlorinators processing of the salt to make the chlorine,and the chemical reaction seperating this "copper" out. But I am not a chemist, just a speculator.

Has anyone else seen this problem, and was it tied back to the salt generator?

Goldline "Aqua-Rite" salt chlorinator problems

Postby Guest » Sun 06 Sep, 2009 13:37

This may help with some of your problems. Also, note that the "Inspect Cell" light goes on every 500 hours. Holding the "Diagnostic" button down for 3 seconds will reset the timer and turn off the light.

Re-calibrating the Aqua Riteâ„¢ Chlorine Generator
When attempting to recalibrate the average salt reading (default reading {2700-3400ppm}) the pump needs to be running. If the pump is not running, the system will show “NO FLOW”, if flashing this is just a warm up process and the unit is waiting for the water to begin moving through the cell to carry the chlorine out to the pool. Once flow is established the unit should begin to display the “POWER” & “GENERATING” lights solid green. Once this happens the cell has just engaged and is trying to measure the salt level. Press the diagnostic button once.
The unit then gives the following:
Default = what the unit thinks the salt level is due to an average of all previously recorded “instant salt readings” from all of the different polarity changes since the system was installed, or since the last time the unit was re-calibrated.
First the unit reads the temp, then the voltage in the cell, then the amperage, then it will display the desired output percentage (where you have the dial set to), then next reading is the “instant salt reading”, or what the cell thinks the salt level is right at that moment. Then it will show “AL-X”, this just tells the technician what type of system they are working on (Aqua Rite™, Naturesoft, ect…), and then finally the software revision (r1.XX), this just tells the technician what to look for symptom wise, for instance a certain combination of lights. “Low/ check salt” and “inspect cell” are the most common lights and they are usually on together as the cell is saying it’s not sure if the problem is in fact the salt or if it perhaps has a calcium build up.
So you will see:
• temp
• voltage
• amperage
• desired output
• instant salt reading (comes up with a dash before the # to differentiate with default
• product code
• software revision
• back to default
Now moving the slide switch from “AUTO” to “SUPER CHLORINATE” and then back to “AUTO” on our control box is basically like pressing ‘enter’ on a computer. If the unit is reading 2700-3400PPM it is in the standard mode, if it reads 2.70-3.40, it is in the metric mode. If you need to change the reading, press the diagnostic button once to display the temperature. Then slide the switch up to “SUPER CHLORINATE” for a few seconds, as long as the “SUPER CHLORINATE” light illuminates, you can switch back, this should be instantaneous. This procedure will toggle between the two different settings.
Also, using the same procedure, “AUTO” to “SUPER CHLORINATE” then back to “AUTO” while showing the 5th reading (if it reads between -2700 up to -3400), the “Instant Salt Reading”, this will force the system to forget all of the previous readings and it will recalibrate its self to the new readings and should eliminate the error lights. If it does not, contact technical service at 908-355-7995 (Monday - Friday, 8:00 am - 5:00 pm) one of our techs will be able to assist you.

Goldline "Aqua-Rite" salt chlorinator problems

Postby Notsure » Mon 07 Sep, 2009 11:42

Hi, I have taken my cell out and cleaned it, but I am not sure which way it goes back in, I don't see
an arrow, does it matter which way it goes. Thanks

Goldline "Aqua-Rite" salt chlorinator problems

Postby Eye-Fan » Tue 15 Sep, 2009 19:31

If your problem is your flow sensor, but your pump is on the same circuit as your chlorine genrator, then the "Safety issue" of producing chlorine gas is a moot point. If the3 generator only runs when the pump is on, your flow sensor is superfluous. You can save the $200 on a flow sensor by 'jumpering' a regular phone line and connecting it to your unit, without safety concern. Bon Chance.


Postby Bellz » Mon 21 Sep, 2009 13:50


excel wrote:The sensor can also be replaced without having to replace the entire cell. It is a $20 part and is a very easy (less than 1/2 hr) fix.


Goldline "Aqua-Rite" salt chlorinator problems

Postby philip » Wed 23 Sep, 2009 03:50

I'd like to thank eng on the method to use a resistor to fix the temperature sensor. It works for me and I don't need to replace the chlorinator. I put in a semi variable resistor to make resistor value adjustment easier.


Goldline "Aqua-Rite" salt chlorinator problems

Postby Firefighterjjs » Wed 23 Sep, 2009 14:20

I have an Aqua Rite System I just had all 4 lights start blinking simlutaniously continuiously. Why is it doing this? What does it mean? I've lived here for about a year and the pool was installed in 03' but not sure when the clorinator was installed?? please help it's not making chlorine..

Goldline "Aqua-Rite" salt chlorinator problems

Postby NickC » Tue 17 Nov, 2009 14:52

LOOK people, what are you doing! Ditch the salt cell, its nothing but a waste of LIFE clearly@! Let me break it down for you:

#1 You are not saving money = Sure in the short run it cost 8-10$ a mo to run the salt cell compared to 10-15$ for liquid or granular chlorine. But at the end of 3-5 years o no! a new salt cell 500-1000$ try equating that into this example

#2 "Its so natural because we are swimming in salt not chlornie" Really>? Try the fact that salt absorbs moisture from your skin...and chlorine does too. Try eleiminating one of those and you could only be better off.

#3 Tile, Tile, and Gunite! Salt absorbs into EVERYTHING porise (i hope i spelled that right). So needless to say MORE money spent hiring people like me to come out and clean your walls, tile, and pool.

#4 You probably have a cartridge filter, this has nothing to do with the previous three but it just further proves you had no idea what you were doing when you build your pool. SAND FILTER is the only answer. Saves energy, money, and TIME!

There enjoy that advice, because its the only senceable bit on here. I service 175+ pools in Sacramento Ca and have been doing it for 9 years now, get a clue, and ask an expert, one who isn't interest in taking your money!

Pool Service Sacramentoenails

Goldline "Aqua-Rite" salt chlorinator problems

Postby Patrick » Sat 21 Nov, 2009 22:02

Can someone direct me to Daren's post - No cell power repair guide-.It was mentioned on page 4 of this thread. I can't seem to find it.

Goldline "Aqua-Rite" salt chlorinator problems

Postby Patrick » Sun 22 Nov, 2009 00:07

Found it.
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Goldline "Aqua-Rite" salt chlorinator problems

Postby dst51 » Mon 07 Dec, 2009 11:41

Xpoolguy--thanks for the helpful info. Our pool is just over 3 yrs old. My wife takes pretty good care of the pool but we now have rust color water coming from the bottom of the t15 cell. I read one owner discovered the wires had become exposed and eroded off. She will check the cell unit again but I fear it will probably be the same story. If so can the present cell be repaired or should the whole cell be replaced.

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