Aqua Rite salt level reads zero

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PTSinTX

Aqua Rite salt level reads zero

Postby PTSinTX » Sun 16 Aug, 2009 15:26

My AquaRite system was reading 2400PPM salt level. I added salt and it raised it some. I added more and more ... now the unit reads 0. I took water to be tested and was told the salt level was 4800. I started adding fresh water to reduce the salt level.

The unit continues to read zero for salt level. Water test tells me I'm down to about 3900. The cell appears clean (I've not had it tested yet.) Can anyone tell me if the mostly likely cause of the LED reading 0 salt is a bad cell or a circuit board or other electronics related problem. I don't recall if any LED lights are on and I'm not home while posting this to check.

I know I can buy a new cell. If the electronics are the problem, do I have to buy a new control unit or can motherboard, etc be repaired. If it can be repaired, is the cost of repair worth the effort or is it just something that get's replace with an complete new control unit.

I'm in Fort Worth if anyone that fixes these things see this and cares to get some business repairing this thing. Thanks.


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Aqua Rite salt level reads zero

Postby Pool Clown » Thu 24 Sep, 2009 21:41

This post has been here for over a month. Do you still need help? Or did you get your problem resolved?
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The Guru Of Pools

Aqua Rite salt level reads zero

Postby The Guru Of Pools » Fri 25 Sep, 2009 17:34

Pool clown there are several things to consider. First, and most importantly, in order for the Aqua Rite to check the salt level in the pool it has to be producing chlorine, however if the salt level is over 4000 ppm it will turn itself off and not make chlorine. So if you are trying to test the salt level you may get a zero reading because of the Catch 22. So follow these steps to check the salt level:

1-Turn the percentage to 100%.
2-Slide the switch to off if it is currently in the Auto position.
3-Slide the switch back to Auto.
4-Wait for the generating light to come on then press the diagnostic button until you reach the large negative number. You have to do this as soon as you see the generating light come on, if you dilly dally the unit will shut down once the salt reads over 4000ppm. This is your instant salt reading. If it is over 4000 ppm you will need to drain some water out of the pool.
5-If the number is 4000ppm or below then slide the switch from Auto to Super Chlorinate then back to Auto. This will reset the salt level to the new reading and allow the unit to make chlorine. If the level is above 4000ppm it will not make chlorine it will automatically stop the chlorine production and you will get a zero reading for the salt level.

Your cell may have failed. As the Hayward / Goldline cells fail they will give you a false low reading of the salt level in your pool. NEVER ADD SALT BASED ON THE READING OF YOUR SALT GENERATOR! Always take you water to a professional swimming pool store and have it tested. The store should be using a salt meter (it is the most accurate than test stips, assuming they have checked the calibration with a standard salt solution. Don't hesitate to ask them if it has recently, in the last week, been calibrated.) Add salt only based on their results. If you would like to purchase a salt meter they are available on the market and will sell for between $100 and $200 dollars for a small pocket unit. Make sure you purchase a calibration solution at the same time.

I hope this helps you understand what is going on.

The Guru of Pools at Discountpoolwarehouse.com
AlanGMyerson

Aqua Rite salt level reads zero

Postby AlanGMyerson » Fri 25 Sep, 2009 20:05

The Guru Of Pools wrote:First, and most importantly, in order for the Aqua Rite to check the salt level in the pool it has to be producing chlorine.


Not true. The salt sensor works whether the cell is producing chlorine or not. The sensor needs to be checked and cleaned, or replaced if necessary.

A titration test that measures chloride is the most accurate way to measure "salinity". The chloride ion concentration is the only ionic species that matters to the cell. A meter measures all Total Dissolved Solids that contribute to conductivity.

http://www.taylortechnologies.com/produ ... KitID=2175
AlanGMyerson

Aqua Rite salt level reads zero

Postby AlanGMyerson » Fri 25 Sep, 2009 20:12

AlanGMyerson wrote:
The Guru Of Pools wrote:First, and most importantly, in order for the Aqua Rite to check the salt level in the pool it has to be producing chlorine.


Not true. The salt sensor works whether the cell is producing chlorine or not. The sensor needs to be checked and cleaned, or replaced if necessary.


My mistake. There is no separate salt sensor for this chlorinator. Please disregard that part of the post.
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Aqua Rite salt level reads zero

Postby Pool Clown » Fri 25 Sep, 2009 23:21

The Guru Of Pools wrote:Pool clown there are several things to consider. First, and most importantly, in order for the Aqua Rite to check the salt level in the pool it has to be producing chlorine, however if the salt level is over 4000 ppm it will turn itself off and not make chlorine. So if you are trying to test the salt level you may get a zero reading because of the Catch 22. So follow these steps to check the salt level:

1-Turn the percentage to 100%.
2-Slide the switch to off if it is currently in the Auto position.
3-Slide the switch back to Auto.
4-Wait for the generating light to come on then press the diagnostic button until you reach the large negative number. You have to do this as soon as you see the generating light come on, if you dilly dally the unit will shut down once the salt reads over 4000ppm. This is your instant salt reading. If it is over 4000 ppm you will need to drain some water out of the pool.
5-If the number is 4000ppm or below then slide the switch from Auto to Super Chlorinate then back to Auto. This will reset the salt level to the new reading and allow the unit to make chlorine. If the level is above 4000ppm it will not make chlorine it will automatically stop the chlorine production and you will get a zero reading for the salt level.

Your cell may have failed. As the Hayward / Goldline cells fail they will give you a false low reading of the salt level in your pool. NEVER ADD SALT BASED ON THE READING OF YOUR SALT GENERATOR! Always take you water to a professional swimming pool store and have it tested. The store should be using a salt meter (it is the most accurate than test stips, assuming they have checked the calibration with a standard salt solution. Don't hesitate to ask them if it has recently, in the last week, been calibrated.) Add salt only based on their results. If you would like to purchase a salt meter they are available on the market and will sell for between $100 and $200 dollars for a small pocket unit. Make sure you purchase a calibration solution at the same time.

I hope this helps you understand what is going on.

The Guru of Pools at Discountpoolwarehouse.com


I was asking PTSinTX If he still needed help. I didn't need the help.
Factory warranty service for Pentair, Jandy, Raypak, Polaris, and Paramount pool cleaning systems.
Poolboy777
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Aqua Rite salt level reads zero

Postby Poolboy777 » Mon 28 Sep, 2009 23:48

I've got the same problem as PTSinTX
Does anybody have a schematic of the Gold Line Aqua Rite PCB P/N 066012C-1 ?
My cell is going out (but generating well) with a low salt reading. I want to "trick" the controller in reading about 1000 ppm higher (from 2000 to 3000). Thanks E-mail: [email protected]
UserID: Poolboy777
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Aqua Rite salt level reads zero

Postby Pool Clown » Tue 29 Sep, 2009 21:23

I know of no way to do that. Maybe someone else here knows this.
Factory warranty service for Pentair, Jandy, Raypak, Polaris, and Paramount pool cleaning systems.
Guest

Aqua Rite salt level reads zero

Postby Guest » Tue 13 Oct, 2009 13:37

I have owned an Aquarite for eight years. When my chlorine level starts dropping and I know that I have enought salt, and the cell is clean; I know it is time to order a new cell. It will start out reading 3000, then the next week it will be 2700. Then the following week 2400. I will add 1 bag of salt, and if the salt reading does not come up I will clean the cell. If the reading still does not come up I will replace the cell. How old is your cell. I have gone through 4 in eight years. The first lasted 11 months. The second 1 year. The third, lasted 4 years. I live in the Dallas area and found that if I turn off the unit in the winter months (Dec - Feb) the cell seems to last longer. I think your cell has died and you need to replace it.
kevreh

Aqua Rite salt level reads zero

Postby kevreh » Wed 26 May, 2010 19:44

The Guru Of Pools wrote:1-Turn the percentage to 100%.
2-Slide the switch to off if it is currently in the Auto position.
3-Slide the switch back to Auto.
4-Wait for the generating light to come on then press the diagnostic button until you reach the large negative number. You have to do this as soon as you see the generating light come on, if you dilly dally the unit will shut down once the salt reads over 4000ppm. This is your instant salt reading. If it is over 4000 ppm you will need to drain some water out of the pool.
5-If the number is 4000ppm or below then slide the switch from Auto to Super Chlorinate then back to Auto. This will reset the salt level to the new reading and allow the unit to make chlorine. If the level is above 4000ppm it will not make chlorine it will automatically stop the chlorine production and you will get a zero reading for the salt level.


...................

I hope this helps you understand what is going on.

The Guru of Pools at Discountpoolwarehouse.com


Thank you for the explanation....this the same problem I was having. Apparently I was switching from Super back to auto while it was above 4000 and causing my cell to stop generating chlorine.

Kevin
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Aqua Rite Unit Display??

Postby exit63 » Sat 29 May, 2010 20:30

I just had a salt unit installed. The owners manual leaves much to be desired. Does anyone know what the LED readings mean? I have a Goldline Aqua Rite unit. I know the salt reading and temperature displays. The rest are a mystery. The manual could have shown a picture and explained what they mean. A couple of them look like they are in Klingon.
Tink

Aqua Rite salt level reads zero

Postby Tink » Wed 23 Jun, 2010 20:04

If you go to the Goldline controls web site you can print them. off hand the first # is the salt level. Push the diagnostics button once and you'll get the pull temp. Push a second time and you'll get the cell voltage and so on!!!
Tink

Aqua Rite salt level reads zero

Postby Tink » Wed 23 Jun, 2010 20:06

ooops! I should have proof read! should be pool temp.
mjlites

Aqua Rite salt level reads zero

Postby mjlites » Sun 01 Aug, 2010 18:59

How do I know if my salt cell needs to be replaced? My Aqua Rite was reading 2300ppm of salt so before reading all of the previous posts, I poured 4 bags of salt in it, then 5 hours later had the water tested at a pool store and they told me I'm at 4200ppm. I also have black algea growing in it and the pool store associate told me I needed to balance the water before adding algea killer to it.

My question is do I need to replace my salt cell (its 4 years old) or can it be fixed, and how do I fix the Aqua Rite to read properly? Thanks for your time reading this.

Mark
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Aqua Rite salt level reads zero

Postby floridapooltech » Mon 02 Aug, 2010 11:17

mjlites wrote:How do I know if my salt cell needs to be replaced? My Aqua Rite was reading 2300ppm of salt so before reading all of the previous posts, I poured 4 bags of salt in it, then 5 hours later had the water tested at a pool store and they told me I'm at 4200ppm. I also have black algea growing in it and the pool store associate told me I needed to balance the water before adding algea killer to it.

My question is do I need to replace my salt cell (its 4 years old) or can it be fixed, and how do I fix the Aqua Rite to read properly? Thanks for your time reading this.

Mark



The cell may not need to be replaced. how many gallons is your pool that you added 160 lbs. of salt to increase it around 700 ppm? The problem with your black algae stemmed from having insufficient levels of "chlorine" (generated from your system) for an extended period of time. The best way to correct this issue, when your chlorinator is back online, is to use a course brush (metal), scrub/scrape the top layer off the algae, which is the protective layer, then set your chlorinator to "shock" or 100%. leave the system running overnight. This "superchlorinating" along with scraping the protective layer off the algae will kill the algae. There is no need for any other "algaecides". With proper filtration and sanitation, there is never any need for other chemicals as long as your proactive with your water balance!

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