Chem numbers crazy (Just moved in)

What is floc, clarifier, stabilizer, cyanuric acid,
algaecide, brightener, dichlor, sodium hypo,
sodium bisulfate, ....??
Newbpoolowner
Pool Newbie
Pool Newbie
Posts: 4
Joined: Sun 23 Jul, 2017 15:40
My Pool: Most of this is estimated info:
Pool built Pre 2000 (I believe the solar heat system was installed in 2000)
Surface: I think Concrete and plaster
Size Aprox: 10'w by 20'L (but not a rectangle)
Gallons: Maybe 10k Gallons
Solar heat system: Fafco auto controler(broke, I just manual control)
Main Pump: 1.5HP Emerson EB842
Booster pump: 3/4HP Hayward 5060
Main filter:PentAir clean and clear plus CCP320
Zodiac Nature 2 sanitizer
Cleaner: Pentair LL505G

Chem numbers crazy (Just moved in)

Postby Newbpoolowner » Sun 23 Jul, 2017 16:06

Hey everyone I am brand new to the forum so thank you for taking the time to read my post.
I just bought an older house with a pool. The lady that owned the house before me was in her 80s and she kept care of the pool herself. Not sure what she was doing but I think she just used 3in chlorine tabs and hoped for the best. I bought a water testing strip kit to start trying to take care of the pool and my first readings are pretty crazy and I am wondering if my best bet is to just drain the pool and start from scratch.

Problem: Chem numbers are all over the place so I am not sure if my best bet is to just drain the pool and start from scratch. Or if I should buy all the necessary chems and start balancing it.

FC: 10 (tester says it's high)
TC: 5 (tester says ok but high)
pH: Below 6.2 (below its readable level)
TA: 0-40 (kit says its low)
CH: I think strip kit calls this Total hardness if so its between 500- 1k closer to 1k
CYA: 150-300 closer to the 300 (tester says high)

My pool: Most of this is estimated info:
Pool built Pre 2000 (I believe the solar heat system was installed in 2000)
Surface: I think Concrete and plaster
Size Aprox: 10'w by 20'L (but not a rectangle)
Gallons: Maybe 10k Gallons
Solar heat system: Fafco auto controler(broke, I just manual control)
Main Pump: 1.5HP Emerson EB842
Booster pump: 3/4HP Hayward 5060
Main filter:PentAir clean and clear plus CCP320
Zodiac Nature 2 sanitizer
Cleaner: Pentair LL505G

Pool chemicals: Chlorine 3in tabs

What do you guys think? Start trying to combat these numbers or just drain the thing?

Thanks for the help!


Denniswiseman
Swimming Pool Superstar
Swimming Pool Superstar
Posts: 830
Joined: Tue 06 Sep, 2011 05:48
My Pool: 10k inground fibreglass, Telescopic Cover, Hayward Powerline pump, Quality filter with glass media, 27kw output heat pump, K-2006C test kit
Location: United Kingdom

Re: Chem numbers crazy (Just moved in)

Postby Denniswiseman » Mon 24 Jul, 2017 02:35

First of all get a decent test kit so that you can be sure of your numbers (Taylor K2006c or TF100) it will save you on unnecessary chemicals
With a CYA of 150-300 you will have to drain and refill as that is the only way to reduce CYA which is rendering your chlorine inefective and forcing your pH down as it's acidic and can damage your pump
Stop using those pucks as they just introduce more CYA although you do need some
For every 10 ppm Free Chlorine (FC) added by Trichlor, it also increases Cyanuric Acid (CYA) by 6 ppm.
For every 10 ppm FC added by Dichlor, it also increases CYA by 9 ppm.
For every 10 ppm FC added by Cal-Hypo, it also increases Calcium Hardness (CH) by at least 7 ppm
Check out these links
Pool School
Slam
Chlorine / CYA Chart
Pool Levels
Pool Maths
Try to use just these chemicals
Liquid chlorine (sodium hypochlorite or plain bleach)
Muriatic acid (hydrochloric acid) to lower pH and TA
Bicarbonate of soda to raise TA
Aeration will raise pH only
Soda ash will raise pH and TA
I don't normally suggest a drain down but your possible CYA is way over the top. We normally suggest a partial drain and refill
e.g. if your CYA was 100 and you wanted to get it to 50 you would drain 1/2 out and refill
Your possible 300 would need to drain 5/6
Check out your water table as that could lift the pool out if it's high, unusual with concrete but possible
Let us know how you get on
Newbpoolowner
Pool Newbie
Pool Newbie
Posts: 4
Joined: Sun 23 Jul, 2017 15:40
My Pool: Most of this is estimated info:
Pool built Pre 2000 (I believe the solar heat system was installed in 2000)
Surface: I think Concrete and plaster
Size Aprox: 10'w by 20'L (but not a rectangle)
Gallons: Maybe 10k Gallons
Solar heat system: Fafco auto controler(broke, I just manual control)
Main Pump: 1.5HP Emerson EB842
Booster pump: 3/4HP Hayward 5060
Main filter:PentAir clean and clear plus CCP320
Zodiac Nature 2 sanitizer
Cleaner: Pentair LL505G

Re: Chem numbers crazy (Just moved in)

Postby Newbpoolowner » Mon 24 Jul, 2017 23:14

Thank you Denniswiseman! That's a really indepth post, I have already started reading some of the pool school, lots of info there.

I am planing to drain the pool this weekend. Most likely will have to rent a pump from home depot if they do because I am sure it will take forever with my pool pump, and this pool does not have a waste connection so I can't just change the valve to have it pump right to sewer, I just have a hose bib right after the pump that I'll have to connect a hose to and run that to the sewer line.
Its a really old pool set up. The lines coming out of the ground are old copper lines.
Denniswiseman
Swimming Pool Superstar
Swimming Pool Superstar
Posts: 830
Joined: Tue 06 Sep, 2011 05:48
My Pool: 10k inground fibreglass, Telescopic Cover, Hayward Powerline pump, Quality filter with glass media, 27kw output heat pump, K-2006C test kit
Location: United Kingdom

Re: Chem numbers crazy (Just moved in)

Postby Denniswiseman » Tue 25 Jul, 2017 02:53

When you refill try and keep your pH to 7.4 as when it gets acidic it could leach some copper from the pipes into the pool causing other problems, also order one of the test kits I suggested, it will save you a fortune in unnecessary chems
Good luck and keep reading
Newbpoolowner
Pool Newbie
Pool Newbie
Posts: 4
Joined: Sun 23 Jul, 2017 15:40
My Pool: Most of this is estimated info:
Pool built Pre 2000 (I believe the solar heat system was installed in 2000)
Surface: I think Concrete and plaster
Size Aprox: 10'w by 20'L (but not a rectangle)
Gallons: Maybe 10k Gallons
Solar heat system: Fafco auto controler(broke, I just manual control)
Main Pump: 1.5HP Emerson EB842
Booster pump: 3/4HP Hayward 5060
Main filter:PentAir clean and clear plus CCP320
Zodiac Nature 2 sanitizer
Cleaner: Pentair LL505G

Re: Chem numbers crazy (Just moved in)

Postby Newbpoolowner » Sat 02 Sep, 2017 17:10

Thanks Dennis,
I Drained and refilled the pool Last weekend with no issues, Its a 15k pool, or so once I saw my Water bill lol.
So far the chems are doing fine, Using Pucks(I have a bunch unfortunately) to get some CYA in before I start using liquid Chlorine. PH is around 7.5 right now.

FC: 3
TC: 3
pH: 7.5
TA: 100
CH: 100
CYA: 10
Denniswiseman
Swimming Pool Superstar
Swimming Pool Superstar
Posts: 830
Joined: Tue 06 Sep, 2011 05:48
My Pool: 10k inground fibreglass, Telescopic Cover, Hayward Powerline pump, Quality filter with glass media, 27kw output heat pump, K-2006C test kit
Location: United Kingdom

Re: Chem numbers crazy (Just moved in)

Postby Denniswiseman » Sun 03 Sep, 2017 01:43

They look fine for a start. Keep the pucks going in untill you reach your target CYA. Remember to adjust your chlorine level to your CYA and you probably need to raise your CH
Don't get your liquid chlorine yet as it's strength drops over time
Will you be closing/
Newbpoolowner
Pool Newbie
Pool Newbie
Posts: 4
Joined: Sun 23 Jul, 2017 15:40
My Pool: Most of this is estimated info:
Pool built Pre 2000 (I believe the solar heat system was installed in 2000)
Surface: I think Concrete and plaster
Size Aprox: 10'w by 20'L (but not a rectangle)
Gallons: Maybe 10k Gallons
Solar heat system: Fafco auto controler(broke, I just manual control)
Main Pump: 1.5HP Emerson EB842
Booster pump: 3/4HP Hayward 5060
Main filter:PentAir clean and clear plus CCP320
Zodiac Nature 2 sanitizer
Cleaner: Pentair LL505G

Re: Chem numbers crazy (Just moved in)

Postby Newbpoolowner » Sun 10 Sep, 2017 17:24

I live in sacramento, So I will keep it open in the winter, Might not use it because it does get kinda cold but with the solar heater it should be able to last a bit into fall for use and should help in the spring so it gets use soon then most.
I was holding off on messing with the CH until I got the CYA at around 30-40ppm. Should I just get some calcium chloride and get it my CH to about 250?
Denniswiseman
Swimming Pool Superstar
Swimming Pool Superstar
Posts: 830
Joined: Tue 06 Sep, 2011 05:48
My Pool: 10k inground fibreglass, Telescopic Cover, Hayward Powerline pump, Quality filter with glass media, 27kw output heat pump, K-2006C test kit
Location: United Kingdom

Re: Chem numbers crazy (Just moved in)

Postby Denniswiseman » Mon 11 Sep, 2017 02:46

You could try Cal-Hypo as well as the pucks for now
For every 10 ppm Free Chlorine (FC) added by Trichlor, it also increases Cyanuric Acid (CYA) by 6 ppm.
For every 10 ppm FC added by Dichlor, it also increases CYA by 9 ppm.
For every 10 ppm FC added by Cal-Hypo, it also increases Calcium Hardness (CH) by at least 7 ppm
That way you can do it slowly
Glen123
Pool Enthusiast
Pool Enthusiast
Posts: 12
Joined: Wed 13 Jan, 2016 07:13
My Pool: 1 yard, brick type, white surface, quality pump and filter.
Location: Brooklyn, NY

Re: Chem numbers crazy (Just moved in)

Postby Glen123 » Wed 18 Apr, 2018 03:06

Newbpoolowner wrote:I am planning to drain the pool this weekend. Most likely will have to rent a pump from home depot if they do because I am sure it will take forever with my pool pump, and this pool does not have a waste connection so I can't just change the valve to have it pump right to sewer, I just have a hose bib right after the pump that I'll have to connect a hose to and run that to the sewer line. Its a really old pool set up. The lines coming out of the ground are old copper lines.


If you have a concrete swimming pool so draining it can harmful for your pool even damage it. The inside surface of the swimming pool can become damaged from being allowed to dry out. A concrete pool requires the weight of the water in it in order to stabilize itself with the surrounding groundwater table.

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