Help! This is really frustrating.

[Rileysdad99]

Moved into a new house with a salt water pool. 12,000gal. Hayward aquarite controls with T15 cell.

Pool turned green after a few days. Control panel indicated "no flow" evenethough the pump obviously was flowing. Did some research about maintenance. Found the flow switch was broken. Easily replaced it and had flow indicated. Next it displayed 300ppm salt level with no chlorine being generated. Followed the table in the manufacturer book and added approximately 360 pounds of salt as well as algecide. After cleaning the filter several times and re-establishing good flow, the readout was 1800ppm. A local pool supply company dictated that I add shock to clear the pool. The pool went from green to a deep blueish color with foam on the surface. Still, however, no chlorine was being generated by the system. Since chlorine generation won't happen until the salt level reached at least 2300ppm, I felt more salt would be the solution. Eventually, the readout was 2400ppm and chlorine was being generated. The pool cleared a little bit more, but was still blueish and cloudy. I did a dip strip test with the following results:

Total hardness: 500

Total chlorine: 3.5

Free Chlorine: 1

pH: 7.8

Total Alkalinity: 45

Stabilizer: 0



I added some pH lowering and did another test the next day. pH came down to 7.2. It was then decided to bring a sample to the local pool supply from before and have it checked. They reported that salt was over 4500ppm and chlorine and free chlorine were both 0. It was suggested that I drain some water and refill with clean new water. It is impossible to say how much was drained and replaced, but the two hoses (standard garden hose) we're running for approximately 3.5 hours. Now the salt readout on the Hayward control box is 0ppm and is not generating any longer. I have inspected the cell and it is free of scale and debris. The filter is clear, the pumps are working.

At this point I feel that stabilizer is necessary. But the real question though is if the salt content is too high, would the cell read 0ppm? The led led indicator for high salt is not lit.

I need the system to generate again, but it won't until 2300ppm is sensed. So, where do I go from this point?

[mmirav]

Your salt cell is probably shot. When the reading is a lot lower than actual salt it means the cell needs to be replaced.

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[Denniswiseman]

First of all forget your SWCG and turn it off, it can't produce enough chlorine to kill your algae
Secondly chuck your strips away and get a decent FAS/DPD test kit (Taylor K2006C or TF100) and a salt test kit (Taylor K-1766)
Third get about 30ppm CYA in your pool
With a CC of 2.5 and green water you definately have an algae problem and need to Slam with relation to your Chlorine / CYA Chart and your recommended Pool Levels
Use these common products to maintain your water
Liquid chlorine (sodium hypochlorite or plain bleach) untill you finish your slam, then start checking out your SWCG. When you have it working sometimes you see small bubbles (or cloudy water) coming out of your return
Muriatic acid (hydrochloric acid) to lower pH and TA
Bicarbonate of soda to raise TA
Aeration will raise pH only
Soda ash will raise pH and TA

[Teapot]

Stop using algaecide, that's what's foaming and your chlorine, what little you have is busy trying to burn the algaecide out of the pool meaning not enough to kill the algae (algaecide is a pool industry con, chlorine is better and cheaper)
What is your pool made of, plastic/vinyl or concrete/plaster tile? If it's plastic or vinyl do not add bicarbonate to increase ALK it's not needed and just means your pH will rise quicker.