Hi everyone,
I'm a second year pool owner - above ground, 24' diameter, 52" tall.
We went away for a week, with our pump/filter running 10 hours every night, a tab of chlorine in the chlorinator, and the solar cover on. While we were gone we had several 90+ degree days.
When we returned, the water was green and murky. I added a pound of shock, and now my levels appear pretty normal, but the water remains greenish/murky. Any suggestions to get back to the crystal clear we're used to?
Any suggestions would be great - thanks!
Greenish-murky water in above ground pool
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- Pool Industry Leader
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- My Pool: 12000 gallons vinyl liner,
Re: Greenish-murky water in above ground pool
You need more than a pound of shock. Shock is a process and not a product. If you regularly use tablet chlorination and shock, the chlorine stabiliser in both will build up and you loose control of your pool. Please let us know your water test results and not those from dip strips which are pretty hopeless.
Use liquid chlorine or chlorox get your free chlorine up to 10+ ppm and hold it there until the water has gone blue/grey indicating algae is dead. Then hold it there at 10+ ppm for a few days until it clears. Get us your water test results as partial draining and refilling maybe easier and quicker.
Use liquid chlorine or chlorox get your free chlorine up to 10+ ppm and hold it there until the water has gone blue/grey indicating algae is dead. Then hold it there at 10+ ppm for a few days until it clears. Get us your water test results as partial draining and refilling maybe easier and quicker.
I may not give you the answer you want to hear, but I will give an honest opinion of your situation as you decribe it.
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- Pool Industry Leader
- Posts: 2594
- Joined: Tue 06 Sep, 2011 05:48
- My Pool: 10k inground fibreglass, Telescopic Cover, Hayward Powerline pump, Quality filter with glass media, 27kw output heat pump, K-2006C test kit
- Location: United Kingdom
Re: Greenish-murky water in above ground pool
As Teapot1 says you need to Slam (Shock Level and Maintain) with relation to Chlorine / CYA Chart and Recommended Pool Levels
Excessive CYA renders your chlorine ineffective and you have to use more to get the same sanitation
For every 10 ppm Free Chlorine (FC) added by Trichlor, it also increases Cyanuric Acid (CYA) by 6 ppm.
For every 10 ppm FC added by Dichlor, it also increases CYA by 9 ppm.
For every 10 ppm FC added by Cal-Hypo, it also increases Calcium Hardness (CH) by at least 7 ppm
To reduce your CYA you have to do a partial drain and refill
Continuous use of Trichlor/Dichlor will raise your CYA which means you have to raise your chlorine level as well
Test strips are commonly called guess strips
You really need to get yourself a decent FAS/DPD test kit (Taylor K2006c or TF Testkits TF100 in the states) to get accurate results as maintaining an appropiate shock level means testing quite often during the day and not just dumping shock in and thinking "that's it"
Excessive CYA renders your chlorine ineffective and you have to use more to get the same sanitation
For every 10 ppm Free Chlorine (FC) added by Trichlor, it also increases Cyanuric Acid (CYA) by 6 ppm.
For every 10 ppm FC added by Dichlor, it also increases CYA by 9 ppm.
For every 10 ppm FC added by Cal-Hypo, it also increases Calcium Hardness (CH) by at least 7 ppm
To reduce your CYA you have to do a partial drain and refill
Continuous use of Trichlor/Dichlor will raise your CYA which means you have to raise your chlorine level as well
Test strips are commonly called guess strips
You really need to get yourself a decent FAS/DPD test kit (Taylor K2006c or TF Testkits TF100 in the states) to get accurate results as maintaining an appropiate shock level means testing quite often during the day and not just dumping shock in and thinking "that's it"
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