Pentair pump wiring Line 1 Line 2?

[Denali]

Okay now I seem to have confused myself some more. I was originally thinking that I've got a single speed pump, but after looking at the wiring diagram on the side of the housing, it's making me think that it's a dual speed pump:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/bill_delon ... 650749457/

I say this only because it lists a LOW VOLTAGE and a HIGH VOLTAGE, but if it's a dual speed pump, then the wiring diagram for the WPC-2 shows 4 inputs to the pump and there is only room for 3 inputs....

The low and high voltage are just the diagrams for 110v and 220v. Normally they come wired for 220v so if that is what you are using from the time clock no need to change the wiring inside the motor.

[Pool Newbie]

I went ahead and wired it as a single speed pump and all seems to working fine, minus a few leaks on the slip joints that had to be repaired. There's also a minor leak on the check valve through the clear glass sight. I've tightened the screws down as hard as I can manually, however the leak is still there. Does anyone know of a special gasket that might be missing or should I use my impact drill to tighten them down a little more?

[SteveH]

Hi,

Id like to confirm a US pool pump wiring concept. The average US pool pump has;

Three wires -
Active 1 (HOT/RED) - Phase 1 110V (0 Degrees)
Active 2 (HOT/RED) - Phase 2 110 V (180 dgrees)
Ground.

How this works is, by using two phases out of sync, both hot wires become a potential of around 230VAC, but alternating between active and neutral on each of the hot wires (thus their equal ambiguous red active colour).

Ground is ground.

Does this sound correct?

I will be cabling a new very sexy pentair VF pool pump here in Australia, and I need to confirm how this should be done. We have a clean single phase high current 240VAC Active, Neutral and Earth set up. Earth is used primarily as a reference to detect leakage (to shut of active during faults). Neutral is bonded to earth at the fuse box and is used as a current return for active. Active is a fat 240VAC/16A single phase hot supply. Although the US pump will receive a 230V supply, its active and neutral polarity will not be changing with phase - its this bit I need to confirm is ok.

Anyone experts have any suggestions or idea's?

Thanks,
Steve

[SteveH]

Here it is - works a treat!

http://users.tpg.com.au/srkh//pentairwired.JPG

Hi,

Id like to confirm a US pool pump wiring concept. The average US pool pump has;

Three wires -
Active 1 (HOT/RED) - Phase 1 110V (0 Degrees)
Active 2 (HOT/RED) - Phase 2 110 V (180 dgrees)
Ground.

How this works is, by using two phases out of sync, both hot wires become a potential of around 230VAC, but alternating between active and neutral on each of the hot wires (thus their equal ambiguous red active colour).

Ground is ground.

Does this sound correct?

I will be cabling a new very sexy pentair VF pool pump here in Australia, and I need to confirm how this should be done. We have a clean single phase high current 240VAC Active, Neutral and Earth set up. Earth is used primarily as a reference to detect leakage (to shut of active during faults). Neutral is bonded to earth at the fuse box and is used as a current return for active. Active is a fat 240VAC/16A single phase hot supply. Although the US pump will receive a 230V supply, its active and neutral polarity will not be changing with phase - its this bit I need to confirm is ok.

Anyone experts have any suggestions or idea's?

Thanks,
Steve

[jemrgm]

I have a new pump w/ 115/230. My wiring used to be for a 2 speed pump. I have 2 black wires, 1 red wire and 1 green wire. Do I just hook up the 2 power wires and the green ground wire or do I need to hook up the red wire as well? I guessing that the red wire may have been used for the 2 speed option on the last pump.

[pm80rs]

I bought a two speed pump to save energy and wiring was a bit tricky until I read someone comments and what hit me in the head was the black wire on the toggle switch was the power walked right to the pump pulled on the black wire connected to the toggle switch connected it to my black incoming wire and the red to L1 common it worked. Now I find out that it won't self prime in the morning set to low. AH!!!