Please Help -- Pool is Turning, need to stop it.

efarbs · Postby **efarbs** » Tue 30 Jun, 2009 22:44

I just found this forum and I'm really hoping you might be able to help.

I'll give as much information as I can...

I have a small pool with an attached spa, the total gallons is approximately 1700 gallons, it has a pebbletech surface.

The filter is a pentair Clean and Clear 200.

Currently the clorine level is 5.0 maybe a touch higher. I don't know what the F.C. level/TC level of chlorine means -- I just have a standard testing kit. The P.H. level is 7.4, alkalinity is 80PPM and I believe rising.

The problem. About a month ago I took over taking care of the pool from my pool guy. It was clear and blue. I maintained the chlorine level, I use tablets. About a week ago, the PH level seemed to be going up quite a bit, I added Muriatic Acid and it began to drop rapidly. However, the pool was still pretty clear it was getting a slightly green colour. Then it started to become a little cloudy. I went to the pool store and they tested and said that I had to add sodium bicarbonate. They also said I had way too much conditioner and had to drain at least half the water and refill.

I emptied half the pool and refilled. When I was able to turn the filter back on I added a chlorine tab in the skimmer to make sure I chlorinated all the new water. I added the sodium bicarbonate about a pound at a time.

Within a few days the pool just keeps getting darker and darker, greener, browner and cloudier. I can still see the bottom but getting tougher. I swept the bottom of the pool and definately had brown moving around a bit at the bottom. (I cleaned the filter about a week ago.)

Today I took another sample to the pool store, they said everything was good, the conditioner level is perfect, the PH seems right on and even though the chlorine is high, the guy said I may want to add more. Then he said he really didn't know what I needed to do?!

I'm really trying to get the pool to turn back from where its going -- can you help??? Thank you!

Postby **chem geek** » Wed 01 Jul, 2009 01:10

Raise the Free Chlorine (FC) level to around 40% of the Cyanuric Acid (CYA) level unless the CYA is still very high (which would require more dilution). Do you have your own good test kit (the Taylor K-2006 or the TF100 from tftestkits.net)? Read Defeating Algae.

fozzie_foster · Postby **fozzie_foster** » Wed 01 Jul, 2009 08:45

is your pool starting to get brown patches and can spread quite quick over bottom of pool brown algi hard to stop unless you shock (liquid shock) this is caused by not enouth circulation at bottom try turning skimmer box down and bottom drain up or a bigger pump must get maximum flow rate to bottom and in a few hours watch it go hope this helps fozzie :

efarbs · Postby **efarbs** » Thu 02 Jul, 2009 00:44

chem geek wrote:Raise the Free Chlorine (FC) level to around 40% of the Cyanuric Acid (CYA) level unless the CYA is still very high (which would require more dilution). Do you have your own good test kit (the Taylor K-2006 or the TF100 from tftestkits.net)? Read Defeating Algae.

I bought the Taylor kit today from Leslie Pools -- its the Taylor Kit made for Leslie pools (I had looked online earlier and I think its the same test kit as the Taylor one). Maybe I'm not seeing it, but it appears the FC level test only registers the highest level at 5.

I've put in 73% Cal-Hypo shock. I had been miscalculating my pool volume it is a total volume of about 12,100 gallons, had been leaving out the multiplier.

I've added 1 1/2 bags of the shock treatment, 1 bag at 5:30PM today and 1/2 at 10:15 PM.

The current readings prior to starting shock were.

FC -- 1, TC: 2, CC: 1, CH: 60, PH 7.8, CYA slightly less than 30.

Current... about 5 hours later (just added a half bag of shock -- total amount 1.5 bags.)

FC: at least 5 (test thing doesn't go up higher), TC: 5 or 5+ (again, test kit doesn't go higher),
pH:8.2, TA is 70 PPM, CH: 80, CYA: 45.

The readings have changed a lot in a short while. The water is definately a little lighter than it was earlier today. I also added an algecide today as well just after I added first bag of shock. Going to add more shock tonight.

I'm not sure any of this makes sense to me anymore. It seems it has become so out of balance.

I truly appreciate your help. Thank you.

Postby **chem geek** » Thu 02 Jul, 2009 02:20

The proper test kit is the Taylor K-2006 or equivalent. At Leslie's, it is the Chlorine FAS-DPD Service Test Kit though you can get it at a better online price here or can get the TF100 from tftestkits.net here. I believe you have the equivalent of the Taylor K-2005 so you can get just the FAS-DPD chlorine test from tftestkits.net here so you will be able to test up to 50 ppm FC with an accuracy of within 0.2 or 0.5 ppm (CC also with this accuracy).

With a CYA in the 30-45 range, just shock the pool to maintain an FC level of around 15 ppm and keep the pump on 24/7 and backwash/clean the filter as needed. Until you get a better chlorine test, try diluting with tap water to get an approximate reading.

efarbs · Postby **efarbs** » Thu 02 Jul, 2009 05:54

Thanks for the reply. The pool is definately clearing. I don't know if I can backwash this system. Clean and Clear 200. It has a large filter cartridge which I cleaned recently (I do every month or so).

Can you put too much chlorine in the water. Also, once it begins to clear up, when do I start trying to get the other levels in check? The pH is really high again, do I add acid now or wait until the pool clears or wait until the chlorine level drops back to normal?

Thanks again,

Sleepless in Oakland.

Postby **chem geek** » Thu 02 Jul, 2009 10:05

You can get the FC too high, but only if it's REALLY high relative to CYA (approaching 100% of the CYA level).

The pH test will tend to read falsely high when the FC level is high so I'd wait on adjusting that until the FC gets into a more normal range.

efarbs · Postby **efarbs** » Thu 02 Jul, 2009 10:30

Its gone!! The water is blue again and clear. Thank you so much for your help. Any tips on what I should do now to start normalizing the rest of the numbers. Thanks again.

Postby **chem geek** » Thu 02 Jul, 2009 20:13

Well that was fast. If you have a vinyl pool, then your numbers are fine except after the FC drops (and you keep a minimum FC of around 3.5 ppm), then adjust your pH down closer to 7.5, though 7.7 is fine if that's more stable.

efarbs · Postby **efarbs** » Fri 10 Jul, 2009 15:06

Well. Its about a week later. Chem Geek is the man. I am happy to report that my pool is clearer and cleaner than it has ever been. Good riddance to my very expensive pool guy. I finally feel like I know what I'm doing.

I've now read the pool school on True Blue site and will probably start buying my chemicals from the grocery store instead of the pool store.

Thanks again for your help!