Inherited Pool Pilot (Total Control) system

[AussieSwimmer]

We have taken on a pool with a Pool Pilot system that was partly dismantled. The Salt Chlorine Generator (75003) has a dead LCD display, so I have bypassed that control link to the pump, and am running the pump on just the 24 hour dial switch.

Assuming that we can restore the full system function (chlorine generation cell, pH control via acid delivery), what is the optimal chemistry test kit for this type of system? eg : is a CYA test relevant, and how much detail do you need with chlorine and pH parameters, given that the system is generating data and acting responsively?

We have just had a fresh load of municipal water delivered (24,000 gallons), so right now the water looks perfect. I have one chlorine 'puck' dissolving in one of the water jets in the pool, and am surprised that it's taking days for the single puck to dissolve.

Thanks everyone for sharing so much great knowledge.

[Denniswiseman]

CYA is one of the most important part of pool chemistry
Chlorine / CYA Chart and
Recommended Pool Levels
Excessive CYA renders your chlorine ineffective and you have to use more to get the same sanitation
For every 10 ppm Free Chlorine (FC) added by Trichlor, it also increases Cyanuric Acid (CYA) by 6 ppm.
For every 10 ppm FC added by Dichlor, it also increases CYA by 9 ppm.
For every 10 ppm FC added by Cal-Hypo, it also increases Calcium Hardness (CH) by at least 7 ppm
Although pucks add CYA which you need,when you are at optimal, use these common products to balance your pool
Liquid chlorine (sodium hypochlorite or plain bleach)
Muriatic acid (hydrochloric acid) to lower pH and TA
Bicarbonate of soda to raise TA
Aeration will raise pH only
Soda ash will raise pH and TA

[AussieSwimmer]

Thank you Dennis. Probably like most newcomers, I am learning as I go (and under-dosing on each action, to avoid getting into an error which will then require a reversing correction).

After dosing with sodium bicarbonate (12 lbs, resulting in aprox 130 ppm total alkalinity) and then 10 oz of sodium bisulfate, I have a pH = 7.5 (the same pH that we had for the fresh load, prior to any chemicals by the way).

The prior owner left 'Mighty Tabs' (trichloro-s-triazinetrione, 28 oz tablets with plastic collars) here, and so I added one of these to a floater, thinking that I could begin building chlorine levels with existing supplies. After overnight, with pump running, I am still not seeing any detectable residual chlorine (< 0.5 ppm via Bioguard test kit). So this doesn't look like a feasible initial dosing strategy, even though it would have added stabilizer simultaneously.

I have pulled that tablet out, figuring it is better to move faster on dosing (the water has been in the pool for 10 days already, with plenty of sunlight). If I am to add liquid chlorine (bleach), is it best to first build up a level of cyanuric acid? My impression from the volume of posts on chlorine here, is that the trichlor tablets are best left for an operational 'plateau', where reasonable levels already exist, with the tablet's role being more maintenance-focused. Does this sound correct?

Thanks again Dennis and all - appreciate the guidance. (running in the first dose of cyanuric acid now)

[Denniswiseman]

You want your CYA up to 40-50 which you can increase with the pucks but use the bleach to bring up the FC
The problem with the pucks excluding the CYA is the fact that you have to wait for them to dissolve
You can test after an hour with the bleach
The pucks are ideal for when you are away with no one to dose bleach
The main thing is to get some FC in the pool before you have an algae bloom