New to Pools - just opened

[Sf49168]

Hello everyone.

I am new to pool ownership. Bought new house and had a 16x32 ft Rowan end pool. Had pool company come and open it ( don’t know anything bout it ) They filter is cracked / leaking in a few spots also. Hayward S200

So the pool was running for 3 1/3 days and deep end is still reallly dark. Shallow end is real dark but much lighter. the jets were off also it seemed today. I Shut filter down , restarted and they went on. As normal. Filter wasn’t leaking as much either ,( odd ). Water level was between 1st & 2nd screw on skimmers . Closer to 1st though.

I’m just wondering if I should do another shock /. What is real procedure for it ?

Maybe not enough water on pool (hence less leak ?)

Sorry for long Noval !

Thanks

[Teapot]

Dennis will be along soon to explain SLAM. But go buy some liquid chlorine in readiness, you are going to need it, lots of it.

[Denniswiseman]

Hi Sf49168 and welcome

Here is the Slam process, with relation to your Chlorine / CYA Chart and recommended Pool Levels Follow it precisely, SLAM stands for shock level and maintain

You really need a decent FAS/DPD test kit (Taylor K2006c or TF Testkits TF100) to take regular testings during the day, dip strips and pool store testing aren't good enough but will do as a start (don't let them sell you anything apart from liquid chlorine or plain bleach)
Your pool level should be 1/2 to 2/3 up the skimmer level
Get started as soon as possible even if you don't have the test kit yet
Get some numbers back ASAP and we will help you on your way to a sparkling pool
FC:
TC:
pH:
TA:
CH:
CYA:

[Sf49168]

Thanks a lot !!! Will read into this and post back soon

[Sf49168]

Hi Sf49168 and welcome

Here is the Slam process, with relation to your Chlorine / CYA Chart and recommended Pool Levels Follow it precisely, SLAM stands for shock level and maintain

You really need a decent FAS/DPD test kit (Taylor K2006c or TF Testkits TF100) to take regular testings during the day, dip strips and pool store testing aren't good enough but will do as a start (don't let them sell you anything apart from liquid chlorine or plain bleach)
Your pool level should be 1/2 to 2/3 up the skimmer level
Get started as soon as possible even if you don't have the test kit yet
Get some numbers back ASAP and we will help you on your way to a sparkling pool
FC:
TC:
pH:
TA:
CH:
CYA:

Hello
So this is what I got. I used the Clorox strips until my kit came in today

FC: Looks about 2
TC: 5
pH: Low. Not even up to color < 6.2
TA: Very low
CH: ( total hardness ? ). Low. 100-200
CYA: Very low. Color not on chart

Total alkalinity. Very low

[Denniswiseman]

You have a combined chlorine of 3 so start slamming immediately using a shock level of 10. Remember to test often daily while doing the slam
Increase your pH as it's acidic with soda ash
Increase your TA with soda ash
Increase your CYA with stabilisor to about 30
What is your pool construction as CH only really applies to a plastered pool

Liquid chlorine (sodium hypochlorite or plain bleach)
Muriatic acid (hydrochloric acid) to lower pH and TA
Bicarbonate of soda to raise TA
Aeration will raise pH only
Soda ash will raise pH and TA

[Sf49168]

Thanks for the quick reply Dennis ! Will get on this quickly. ( a lot to learn )

How do you shock at level 10 ? Is there certain amounts per level ?

Can I add all chemicals one after another ?

[Denniswiseman]

Thanks for the quick reply Dennis ! Will get on this quickly. ( a lot to learn )

You're welcome
We were all there at some time, making mistakes, doing it wrong, listening to bad advice but good regular testing will keep you on the right track

[Sf49168]

Liner pool *

[Denniswiseman]

Don't worry about CH

[Teapot]

Or TA but your reading of low, can you quantify that with some numbers? As your pH rises so will your TA the shock dose of chlorine will raise your pH at least temporarily see where it ends up a bit later.

[Denniswiseman]

How do you shock at level 10 ? Is there certain amounts per level ?

Can I add all chemicals one after another ?

Sorry I missed that, There is a Pool Maths page, where you put your details in and what you are using and it calculates it for you. If you get stuck come back and we'll help

Don't add chemicals together before dosing but they can be put in the pool soon after each other

[Teapot]

Chlorine is more powerful at a lower pH than we usually have (7.2-7. adding chlorine should be your main area of concern rather than the other levels at the moment, you need to backwash your filter as well because all that dirt has to go somewhere.
You need to switch off the pump before moving your multiport valve and top up the water first as it will empty the pool quite quickly.

[Sf49168]

Have another question. Maybe this plays a big part in the crappy water .

As mentioned my Sand filter is old , leaking in couple spots ( replacing once pool guy can get over ). Who knows how old sand is also ....

I’ve noticed at times it seems like the water is almost a stand still. The jets are working ( should they be pointed in a certain direction ?). Current way is more to too vs bottom. Once I shut filter down . Wait a few seconds and turn on. The bubbles kit up.

Also there is very little suction from the return line. I’ve put my hand over cap and felt , also took cap off and barely any pressure at all. I’ve read this should be a high pressure


Thanks a lot !!

[Denniswiseman]

Seems like you have a clogged filter
Have you back washed your filter also a Deep Clean may be required due to the age of the filter
Don't panic about sand it's been around a long time
The idea is to get the jets to move the surface dirt to the skimmer
Do you have a pressure gauge?
When the filter is clean and a good flow make a note of the pressure and when it increases by 25% do another backwash, which may be necessary as you are cleaning a lot of rubbish from the pool