Chlorine not registering

Causes and cures for cloudy swimming pool water.
Milky pool water, white, pink, brown, purple, black cloudy water.
shhurs
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Chlorine not registering

Postby shhurs » Wed 08 Sep, 2010 13:55

I am using test strips, however, I took a sample into a pool store yesterday and it showed 1.0 reading of chlorine.

today, the strip is still white; all other reading are within ideal range.

water is slightly cloudy but has improved over the last week.

I used a total of 2 lb of ascorbic acid; (2 treatments total) over a one week period.

Next option is to drain about 6 inches and refill, right?


James Watson

Chlorine not registering

Postby James Watson » Wed 08 Sep, 2010 18:10

I don't see any reason to drain and refill. Keep adding chlorine until it holds. You should definitely get an FAS-DPD test kit, such as the Taylor K-2006. Test strips are not accurate or reliable.

You have to be very consistent about adding the chlorine to get ahead of this. You could be a little bit more aggressive about adding the chlorine, but that would risk causing the copper to come out of solution and re-stain.

Keep adding 1 gallon and retesting.

Note: Most bleach now comes in 96 ounce or 182 ounce bottles, so you have to estimate how much a gallon is.
shhurs
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Joined: Tue 07 Sep, 2010 09:50
My Pool: 16 x 32 above ground, Kayak, vinyl liner, Haywood pump, cartridge filter
Location: St Louis MO

Chlorine not registering

Postby shhurs » Thu 09 Sep, 2010 07:46

I did go ahead and drain about 6 inches after seeing no results in testing after adding 5 gallons of bleach (6% regular). So I guess I need to start again. I don't believe there is an algae issue just need to get the chlorine adjusted so there isn't an algae issue.

A couple questions:
shhurs
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Joined: Tue 07 Sep, 2010 09:50
My Pool: 16 x 32 above ground, Kayak, vinyl liner, Haywood pump, cartridge filter
Location: St Louis MO

Chlorine not registering

Postby shhurs » Thu 09 Sep, 2010 07:52

I did go ahead and drain about 6 inches after seeing no results in testing after adding 5 gallons of bleach (6% regular and yes I've adjusted for the proper 128 oz (gallon)). So I guess I need to start again. I don't believe there is an algae issue just need to get the chlorine adjusted so there isn't an algae issue.

A couple questions:

- when adding the bleach do I need to dilute it or just add directly by broadcasting around the pool?
- we are scheduled to get alot of rain the next few days as a residual from a hurricane. Should I wait to attempt this again until after the rain?
- I only used 2 lbs. of stain remover; this seems like extreme measures of chlorine addition to correct this. Am I crazy in thinking that.
- Leslie's has been testing my water all along and all chemical readings are fine except the chlorine.
- If I have to add 10 or more gallons of chlorine/bleach does that seem "normal" for this type of problem?
- If I'm lucky enough to get this corrected, then I'll need to shock with a NON-calcium hypochlorite product, right?
- If all else fails can I just treat for end of season with algaecide, shock it, and winterize? Will anything chemically change in the retained water over the winter?

Sorry if I sound dumb with some of my questions.

shhurs
duraleigh
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Chlorine not registering

Postby duraleigh » Thu 09 Sep, 2010 08:56

- when adding the bleach do I need to dilute it or just add directly by broadcasting around the pool?
You can add it to the skimmer or preferably in front of a return, pump running. The flow from the return quickly disperses it.
- we are scheduled to get alot of rain the next few days as a residual from a hurricane. Should I wait to attempt this again until after the rain? Rain has far less effect on pool water chemistry than many seem to think....ignore it.
- I only used 2 lbs. of stain remover; this seems like extreme measures of chlorine addition to correct this. Am I crazy in thinking that. I'm not sure that's the total source of your chlorine loss so can't comment

- Leslie's has been testing my water all along and all chemical readings are fine except the chlorine. One of the issues that makes pool water maintenance difficult is the poor testing done by "pool stores". You would think just the opposite and go to them for definitive results but, with a good test kit (not strips) your own testing is ALWAYS superior, more reliable and cheaper....flat out do not trust pool store results.

- If I have to add 10 or more gallons of chlorine/bleach does that seem "normal" for this type of problem? It certainly can be. Again, I'm not certain that is the sole source of your chlorine consumption (you may have some algae in your water you cannot see) but here's a basic to ALWAYS remember.....chlorine is consumed by two things only.....organics in the pool and UV from the sun....that's it. If you could post a valid CYA test, we could tell how much (roughly) you are losing to the sun and therefore, have an idea if you have organics in the pool that is consuming your chlorine.

- If I'm lucky enough to get this corrected, then I'll need to shock with a NON-calcium hypochlorite product, right? Once this is corrected, you can maintain your pool so that you shouldn't need to shock.

- If all else fails can I just treat for end of season with algaecide, shock it, and winterize? Will anything chemically change in the retained water over the winter? I am not a fan of algaecides but that's not really your question. Essentially, nothing will change. However, if you do have algae (and both James Watson and I suspect you do), it may continue to flourish and give you a bigger mess in the Spring than you have now. The best thing you could do this fall is to get the copper content in your pool below .3ppm (point 3, not 3) so you can shock the pool normally in the Spring. The only way I know to do that is to partially drain and refill your pool or count on the winter rains to help you dilute it.
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shhurs
Pool Care Proficient
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Posts: 31
Joined: Tue 07 Sep, 2010 09:50
My Pool: 16 x 32 above ground, Kayak, vinyl liner, Haywood pump, cartridge filter
Location: St Louis MO

Chlorine not registering

Postby shhurs » Thu 09 Sep, 2010 09:20

- wouldn't algae be visible?

- so, if I get one of these kits and the readings for chlorine as provided by Leslie's turn out the same as doing it myself then I don't really know any more than I do now. Leslie's is reading chlorine at 1.0 and CYA at 40 as of Tuesday.

shhurs
duraleigh
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Chlorine not registering

Postby duraleigh » Thu 09 Sep, 2010 09:50

wouldn't algae be visible?
No

Your call on the kit. All we can do is provide you the info we know to be accurate.
24x52 DIY concrete block and liner
1.5HP pump 925lb sand filter
http://www.tftestkits.net
shhurs
Pool Care Proficient
Pool Care Proficient
Posts: 31
Joined: Tue 07 Sep, 2010 09:50
My Pool: 16 x 32 above ground, Kayak, vinyl liner, Haywood pump, cartridge filter
Location: St Louis MO

Chlorine not registering

Postby shhurs » Thu 09 Sep, 2010 09:58

understand. And I truly appreciate the help and advice. I'll get the kit.

What baffles me is that I never, never, never had a chemical problem until I treated the stain with the asorbic acid. Now . . . . . . . . . .

I'll write back when I get the kit and test.

shhurs
James Watson

Chlorine not registering

Postby James Watson » Thu 09 Sep, 2010 10:37

shhurs
I used a total of 2 lb of ascorbic acid; (2 treatments total) over a one week period.

By the time you let the chlorine drop to zero and then waited for the ascorbic acid to work, you have had zero chlorine for over a week. That is enough to allow algae to get a good start. Part of your chlorine demand was from the ascorbic acid. I think now that the demand is from algae.

You just have to trust us on getting the FAS-DPD kit, it really does matter.

I think that your best course of action is to keep on this and you will get it cleared up. Test, add the chlorine and retest. Keep adding until the chlorine holds. Every time you stop, the algae increases, and you lose ground. You could use 100 gallons and not get anywhere if you are not consistent.
James Watson

Chlorine not registering

Postby James Watson » Thu 09 Sep, 2010 10:50

Also, what is happening with your filter? Is the pressure going up? Have you had to clean it?

If you can't get the FAS-DPD kit right away, at least get a cheap OTO kit to verify that your chlorine is not actually high and bleaching out the strips.

FAS-DPD doesn't bleach out until the chlorine gets pretty high, so you won't need the OTO if you get the FAS-DPD right away.
James Watson

Chlorine not registering

Postby James Watson » Thu 09 Sep, 2010 11:10

A few more questions:

Do you know where the copper came from? Copper usually comes from a heater, copper algaecide or an ionizer.
Do you have a heater?
How big was the copper stain?
What did the stain look like?
What color was it?
Did the ascorbic acid work?
Is all of the stain gone?
Feel the liner, is it slippery, or does it feel clean?
Have you had the copper level tested?
What is the copper level?
shhurs
Pool Care Proficient
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Posts: 31
Joined: Tue 07 Sep, 2010 09:50
My Pool: 16 x 32 above ground, Kayak, vinyl liner, Haywood pump, cartridge filter
Location: St Louis MO

Chlorine not registering

Postby shhurs » Thu 09 Sep, 2010 11:31

I have always been good about cleaning my cartridge filter - it is 3 yrs old and looks brand new. I did go ahead and soak it overnight recently so I thinks it's good.

shhurs
shhurs
Pool Care Proficient
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Posts: 31
Joined: Tue 07 Sep, 2010 09:50
My Pool: 16 x 32 above ground, Kayak, vinyl liner, Haywood pump, cartridge filter
Location: St Louis MO

Chlorine not registering

Postby shhurs » Thu 09 Sep, 2010 12:00

Do you know where the copper came from? Copper usually comes from a heater, copper algaecide or an ionizer. I'm told that our area (midwest) can have some copper in the water; another thought was that maybe from the algaecide

Do you have a heater? No
How big was the copper stain? sporadic over the entire bottom
What did the stain look like? brownish, irregular shape. Didn't move like an algae would, when using Jack's magic test stain kit, the #2 kit (for copper and Iron) identified it

What color was it? brownish (not slimey)

Did the ascorbic acid work? at first no; that is why I treated with the remainder of the container (another 1 pound).

Is all of the stain gone? appears to be; my water is still not sparkling clear but appears to be gone

Feel the liner, is it slippery, or does it feel clean? my husband said below the water line feels a little slippery as compared to above the water line.

Have you had the copper level tested? Yes, Leslie's tested for metals (not specifically copper) but they said iron is not found in this area . I don't have that info with me but the clerk said it was within normal range.

What is the copper level? seems like it was .3

shhurs
James Watson

Chlorine not registering

Postby James Watson » Thu 09 Sep, 2010 13:22

Copper is usually blue, green or black. The stain was probably not copper. It was most likely iron.

You can get your water back to clear. Just keep the filter on 24/7, and keep the chlorine at about 5 to 8. It might take another 20 gallons, but this will clear up as long as you are consistent.

If you get a chance, have the water tested specifically for copper and iron.
shhurs
Pool Care Proficient
Pool Care Proficient
Posts: 31
Joined: Tue 07 Sep, 2010 09:50
My Pool: 16 x 32 above ground, Kayak, vinyl liner, Haywood pump, cartridge filter
Location: St Louis MO

Chlorine not registering

Postby shhurs » Thu 09 Sep, 2010 13:42

should I brush down the wall surfaces (vinyl liner)?

So, when explained to me the copper and iron can pretty much be at a minimum acceptable level in our public water. More iron if in a rural area (which we are not) or if on a well (which we are not). Testing available at local pool supplier (I know you are fond of that), but don't know where else to go?

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