www wrote:Oh and my little OTH kit says PH of 6.4 or so. Still yellow - Hep A.
the baking soda may fix this too. put all those chems in I posted and have the water re-tested tomorrow (after the pump circulated the water).
www wrote:Oh and my little OTH kit says PH of 6.4 or so. Still yellow - Hep A.
www wrote:OK - After adding 8 lbs of baking soda, the TA shows 130 and the PH is at 7.2. I also added 1 1/2 large bottles of bleach (1.4 gal size). I only have the little OHO tester and it shows 3 for Chlorine. I don't know if that is FC or what. The Pool Calculator says I should shoot for 8?
I recalculated gal size of pool (it's fiberglass) and it is closer to 8000 gals.
Water is still crystal clear. No odor. I couldn't test water at pool store as it was closed yesterday and today.
Hopefully my better test kit will arrive sometime early this week.
Also, it looks like a calcium reading of 130 is fine for a fiberglass pool. The pool store had said to raise it, but the pool calculator says 120 - 150.
So should I be adding around 48 oz of liquid chlorine a day? I've removed all the 3" tabs from the system.
Thanks again
swimnsaveusa
-Why would you add calcium to a pool that is made of fiberglass? I would just like to know your reasoning.
swimnsaveusa
Nowhere is it "recommended" to have a 175 in a non gunite pool.
Calcium Hardness (C.H.) is the relative hardness of your pool water, and is measured in P.P.M. If the water is too soft, it will be aggressive and erode pool equipment such as heaters, ladders and even the gel coat finish. If the water is too hard, deposits will form on the pool equipment and finish. 300 to 350 P.P.M. is the proper hardness for your San Juan Pool and should be checked monthly.
http://www.sanjuanpools.net/Downloads/maintenance.doc
Target Range for Calcium Hardness is between (test and adjust monthly
250 ppm – 500 ppm (Spring start up and Fall closing normal)
300 ppm – 500 ppm (If staining or cosmetic problems are present)
In order to prevent staining and remove minerals that cause stains, the calcium hardness range should be at least 200 ppm or higher. http://www.royalfiberglasspools.com/mai ... 0Guide.pdf
swimnsaveusa
-Recommended levels of TA is 80-120, 130 is high, and therefore will promote deterioration and destruction of pool equipment and surfaces, as well as irritation to swimmers.
swimnsaveusa
There is no need for the homeowner at the moment to start diluting water. They are removing the source of CYA (trichlor tabs). Using liquid chlorine and other products CYA free for awhile will allow the CYA to lower on it's own. Dilution is expensive. If not immediately required, doesn't need to be done.
swimnsaveusa
Adding muriatic or non-fuming acid in a column will lower the TA level, and leave the pH alone. This practice has been recommended and practiced since the beginning of time. If you want to lower pH, then yes, allow the acid to distribute evenly throughout the pool.
swimnsaveusa
It's just ridiculous that you come onto this forum not too long ago and seem to argue with all the pro's that have established themselves on here.
swimnsaveusa
Pool Safety & Health Inspector
swimnsaveusa
We will not be arguing this topic with you
swimnsaveusa
I think he/she needs to go take a chemistry class (or two)
swimnsaveusa
Adding muriatic or non-fuming acid in a column will lower the TA level, and leave the pH alone. This practice has been recommended and practiced since the beginning of time.
swimnsaveusa
Nowhere is it "recommended" to have a 175 in a non gunite pool.
Calcium Hardness
The recommended range is between 200-400 ppm for both plaster and fiberglass.
Reference 1
CH levels around 200-250 are recommended for fiberglass pools, to protect the gelcoat and somewhat reduce the severity of metal stains. Reference 2
Calcium helps fiberglass pools resist staining and cobalt spotting.
Reference 3
The calcium is supposed to help prevent staining and to prevent cobalt leaching from the gelcoat. Cobalt staining is very common in fiberglass pools and looks like little black dots that seem to grow like a crystal. I keep mine at about 250 ppm. I used to keep it lower but I had iron stains more often. Since I increased the hardness of the water, I have had much less iron staining in the pool. Didn't even need to use any ascorbic acid this year! - Waterbear
http://www.poolforum.com/pf2/showthread.php?p=54560
swimnsaveusa
it is proven that a fiberglass pool shouldn't have anymore than 120ppm calcium which they already have, yet you think the homeowner needs to go out and buy $100 worth of it for no reason??
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