What Water Tester

[Teapot]

Mine are from the EU so you get the 2year warranty which you won't get from the US model.
You can use a dilution to go higher than 10 for testing.

[Phil.c]

I've PM'd you.

[Teapot]

He has LaMotte Color Q Pro 7 which is supposed to be the best so I'm waiting.

https://youtu.be/2_HI3RI6VqE

Looking on Ebay and Amazon it seems that they are about the same price as K2006C and they only do chlorine up to 10 and most are coming from the states
Wait and see what Teapot has

Dennis I can also get the LaMotte FAS DPD kits.
The similar kits can be got from Palintest but more money and bad customer service.

[Teapot]

He has LaMotte Color Q Pro 7 which is supposed to be the best so I'm waiting.

https://youtu.be/2_HI3RI6VqE

Looking on Ebay and Amazon it seems that they are about the same price as K2006C and they only do chlorine up to 10 and most are coming from the states
Wait and see what Teapot has

Dennis I can also get the LaMotte FAS DPD kits.
The similar kits can be got from Palintest but more money and bad customer service.

[Phil.c]

Having received the tester from Teapot and giving it a couple of tries I found it very easy and accurate, I would have liked a scale though so that readings could be compared to what they should be, I couldn't find one in the kit?

[Denniswiseman]

Having received the tester from Teapot and giving it a couple of tries I found it very easy and accurate, I would have liked a scale though so that readings could be compared to what they should be, I couldn't find one in the kit?

There is no set parameters apart from pH which about 7.4 is fine
Your FC is dependant on your CYA level which is subject to how you chlorinate (Trichlor Dichlor)
Calcium is not that important with a liner or fibreglass pool which again will be affected by how you chlorinate (calcium hypochlorite)

[Teapot]

The pool industry doesn't recognise the chemical difference between concrete/tiled/plaster finished pools and liner/ glass fibre.

To try and prevent metal corrosion there is a need to make sure the water isn't corrosive. Adding salt and oxidising chemicals causes this and we mitigate the effects with calcium hardness and pH plus a bit of alkalinity. The biggest change in the calcium saturation index ( langlier saturation index) is by pH and calcium hardness.
I keep my pH stable by using lower alkalinity around 40ppm but top ups cause it to rise to about 60ppm (supply water is around 260ppm alkalinity). I use liquid chlorine un-stabilised so I don't have the issues that chlorine puck users have. Packaged chlorine are very acidic and designed to work with alkalinity around 80-120.
I haven't used any pH minus in two years!
If you have Cyanuric acid stabiliser in the pool water pH doesn't matter anywhere near as much provided it's above 7 so it doesn't hurt eyes. To make the water less aggressive to metal parts you can allow the pH to be higher up to pH8 without issue, this has come from recent research, it will be years before this becomes mainstream. I have posted about this on here before.

[Phil.c]

Thanks.

BTW, the water in my area is soft...makes a good cup of tea

[Teapot]

Thanks.

BTW, the water in my area is soft...makes a good cup of tea

And makes a right mess of the pool.
You may need to add some calcium chloride to increase the hardness and run the pH a bit higher.

[Phil.c]

Have done