Cloudy Pool Water Support - READ FIRST

Causes and cures for cloudy swimming pool water.
Milky pool water, white, pink, brown, purple, black cloudy water.
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Larry
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Cloudy Pool Water Support - READ FIRST

Postby Larry » Sun 01 Mar, 2009 16:52

In order to help us provide you with more accurate and quicker help for your cloudy pool water problems, we suggest that you include as much of the following information as possible in your support requests:

  • Problem: The cloudy water problem and when / how it started
  • FC: free chlorine level
  • TC: total chlorine level
  • pH:
  • TA: total alkalinity level
  • CH: calcium hardness level
  • CYA: cyanuric acid level (stabilizer / conditioner)
  • My pool: type, size, surface
  • Pool chemicals: the chemicals you use for pool maintenance (chlorine, bromine, ...)
  • My pump & filter:
  • Other info: water temp, bather load, abnormal weather or environmental factors

Depending on the problem, the type and size of pool, the pool surface, the pool pump and the filter details may be required. The more details you provide, the better your chances for a quick answer (and quick fix).

You can copy this template and paste it into your support request to make your cloudy water problem reporting easier:

Code: Select all

[b]Problem[/b]:

[b]FC[/b]:
[b]TC[/b]:
[b]pH[/b]:
[b]TA[/b]:
[b]CH[/b]:
[b]CYA[/b]:

[b]My pool[/b]:
[b]Pool chemicals[/b]:
[b]My pump & filter[/b]:
[b]Other info[/b]: 

And PLEASE use a descriptive title for your support request

Thanks
Larry


AnnaMarie01305

Cloudy Pool Water Support - READ FIRST

Postby AnnaMarie01305 » Sun 07 Jun, 2009 13:27

I have an Intex pop up pool. It is the one that is 18 ft. around and 4 ft. deep. I have tried everything I know to do to this stupid pool and the water is still cloudy. We have been trying to clear it up for about 2 weeks now. We have not even been able to swim in it since we put it up.
Here are my chemical level:
Hardness: 150 ppm
Alkalinity: 200 ppm
PH: 7.3
Chlorine/Bromine: 5 ppm
Cyanuric Acid: 30 ppm


Please help me! Thank you!


Anna :oops:
angela delk

Cloudy Pool Water Support - READ FIRST

Postby angela delk » Sat 13 Jun, 2009 23:09

I opened my pool on 5/28, the first few days were good all clear no problems then it turned cloudy and has been cloudy evesince I took samples to 3 different pool companies and had it tested all my levels were on the mark. they all said I needed a clarifier so I have done that 3 times with no results personally I am at my wits end I keep spending momey on all the stuff they say do and it don't work CAN YOU HELP ME PLEASE
shannon

Cloudy Pool Water Support - READ FIRST

Postby shannon » Wed 28 Jul, 2010 11:42

Problem: cloudy pool water, low ph, high alkalinity

FC: 5
TC: 10
pH:6.8
TA: 180(may be more, test strip only goes to 180)
CH: 200
CYA: 0

My pool: 12' intex with metal frame above ground, 36" deep
Pool chemicals: 1 in chlorine tabs, algaecide, shock all hth brand
My pump & filter: cartridge size a filter pump
Other info: water started getting hazy from all the rain, but now I can not get to balance.I have tried shocking, clarifiers, muriatic acid, ph minus, everything I could think of .
chem geek
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Cloudy Pool Water Support - READ FIRST

Postby chem geek » Wed 28 Jul, 2010 13:58

Your water chemistry numbers are mostly likely dead wrong in some areas. If you have been using Trichlor tabs/pucks for a while, your CYA isn't 0. Test strips are notorious for measuring incorrectly, especially for the CYA level. Your pH might be lower the 6.8 if that is the lowest measured on the strip as Trichlor is very acidic. Your Combined Chlorine (CC) which is the difference between Total Chlorine (TC) and Free Chlorine (FC) is unlikely to be 5 ppm. If it is, then you've got something terribly wrong.

Intex pumps are usually very weak so circulation is poor. If you have only one return, point it diagonally downwards to try and get better bottom circulation (since you most likely do not have a floor drain).

I suggest you get yourself a proper test kit, either the Taylor K-2006 or the TF-100 with the latter kit having more volume of reagents so is comparably priced per test and a more logical assortment of reagent volumes.
journeyman
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Cloudy Pool Water Support - READ FIRST

Postby journeyman » Sun 08 Aug, 2010 16:36

always.keep the chlorine above the highest level on the test acale. you won't have to buy all of those chemicals that they want to sell you. just chlorine. never get your acid high
poolheating

Cloudy Pool Water Support - READ FIRST

Postby poolheating » Tue 07 Jun, 2011 18:51

Swimming pool water is considered hard when it contains dissolved solids in amounts which are objectionable to bathers, equipment, or appearance. Calcium, magnesium, iron and manganese are the chemicals which are the chemicals which are of primary concern. These minerals enter the pool in the water supply, and may also be picked up from piping and pool accessories used in the pool system.
The presence of calcium and magnesium contribute to white cloudy water while iron and manganese usually cause colored water.
Most hard water conditions can be alleviated through the addition of water softening agents. Cloudy water conditions caused by calcium and magnesium are usually the result of too high a pH and may be easily corrected by adjusting the pH to between 7.2 and 7.8.
Well water or ground waters usually contain high percentages of iron and manganese. Pool waters which contain these minerals may not initially appear to have any color, but upon addition of chlorine, they may be oxidized and will appear as a yellow to brownish color. Colored waters may be eliminated by the addition of water softening agents or by the proper use of alum.
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Cloudy Pool Water Support - READ FIRST

Postby chem geek » Tue 07 Jun, 2011 20:43

While too much calcium, along with the pH and TA being high (technically the combination as calculated by the saturation index) can lead to calcium carbonate precipitation causing cloudiness and scale, this is generally not true for magnesium which has to be extraordinarily high before one sees any magnesium carbonate scale. Magnesium carbonate is around 1000 times more soluble than calcium carbonate.
mimi
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Cloudy Pool Water Support - READ FIRST

Postby mimi » Thu 23 Jun, 2011 07:34

Problem: Opened my pool 5/20 with high levels of Phosphorus (2500), went to Leslie's pool company and after bottles of Phos-Free, they recommended Super Floc. I did as directed, vaccuum to waste, filled with more fresh water, pool holds chlorine for a week, and Phos levels are 0. One week later, I do my normal shock, pool becomes cloudy and now no chlorine levels and ph balance is 6. (this has been a consistent 7.2-7.4 since opening). I have superchlorinated 2x in the past 72 hours to no avail.

Hardness: 250
Total Chlorine: 0
total Bromine: 0
Free Chlorine: 0
ph: 6.2
Total Alkalinity: 120
Cyanuric Acid: 0

My pool: 20,400 gal, vinyl lined inground
Pool chemicals: Chlor brite
My pump & filter: sand with 1.5 hp
Other info: I bought the house 2 years ago and wonder if it's the sand filter that needs to be changed? (have no idea when that was done).

HELP!!!
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Cloudy Pool Water Support - READ FIRST

Postby chem geek » Thu 23 Jun, 2011 14:35

Chlorine is a CONSUMABLE and must be added every day or two, not just once a week. This is why a lot of people use Trichlor pucks in a floating dispenser so that chlorine is more continually introduced. Unfortunately, continued use of Trichlor builds up Cyanuric Acid (CYA). The Chlor-Brite you have been using is Dichlor when increases CYA even faster. The following are chemical facts independent of concentration of product or of pool size:

For every 10 ppm Free Chlorine (FC) added by Trichlor, it also increases Cyanuric Acid (CYA) by 6 ppm.
For every 10 ppm FC added by Dichlor, it also increases CYA by 9 ppm.
For every 10 ppm FC added by Cal-Hypo, it also increases Calcium Hardness (CH) by at least 7 ppm.

So even with a 2 ppm FC per day chlorine usage, Trichlor would increase CYA by over 35 ppm PER MONTH if there were no water dilution. Higher CYA levels make chlorine less effective -- basically, it is the FC/CYA ratio that determines the active chlorine level that kills pathogens and prevents algae growth.

You should read the Pool School to learn how to properly manage your pool. Your cloudy water is likely nascent algae growth before it turns into a full-fledged bloom. You need to shock with chlorinating liquid or bleach (or possibly Cal-Hypo if your CH is low).
mimi
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Cloudy Pool Water Support - READ FIRST

Postby mimi » Mon 27 Jun, 2011 11:29

chem geek wrote:Chlorine is a CONSUMABLE and must be added every day or two, not just once a week. This is why a lot of people use Trichlor pucks in a floating dispenser so that chlorine is more continually introduced. Unfortunately, continued use of Trichlor builds up Cyanuric Acid (CYA). The Chlor-Brite you have been using is Dichlor when increases CYA even faster. The following are chemical facts independent of concentration of product or of pool size:

For every 10 ppm Free Chlorine (FC) added by Trichlor, it also increases Cyanuric Acid (CYA) by 6 ppm.
For every 10 ppm FC added by Dichlor, it also increases CYA by 9 ppm.
For every 10 ppm FC added by Cal-Hypo, it also increases Calcium Hardness (CH) by at least 7 ppm.

So even with a 2 ppm FC per day chlorine usage, Trichlor would increase CYA by over 35 ppm PER MONTH if there were no water dilution. Higher CYA levels make chlorine less effective -- basically, it is the FC/CYA ratio that determines the active chlorine level that kills pathogens and prevents algae growth.

You should read the Pool School to learn how to properly manage your pool. Your cloudy water is likely nascent algae growth before it turns into a full-fledged bloom. You need to shock with chlorinating liquid or bleach (or possibly Cal-Hypo if your CH is low).



Perfect advise! It worked and thank you for the information!
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Cloudy Pool Water Support - READ FIRST

Postby poolbum » Thu 30 Jun, 2011 23:01

My pool is 20ft by 40ft, 30,000 gallons vinyl liner with a sand filter. Last week Friday I got home from work and my pool was a little cloudy and you could still see the drain. By the time I went in to get my test strips I came back and you could not see the bottom. I took the reading and I little to no chlorine, phllevel was 7.3, Stabalizer was in the high category, Hardness was normal. I took a sample to the pool store for testing and they said I had little bit of nitrates, and no chlorine. I went home shocked it and and added some ultra bright clarifier and within 24 hours it started clearing up and within 48 was perfect. Well 2 days later I came home it was totally cloudy but worse. I drained a substantial amount out and refilled, I have shocked it two times now for a total of about 12lbs. I had it tested and there are now NO nitrates. I shocked it and 4 hours later I am still showing little to no Level of chlorine. SHOULD I, shock it again, and again until I get a chlorine level? I changed the sand out last summer. I also have a small leak in the line going into the filter would that cause it too be cloudy?
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Cloudy Pool Water Support - READ FIRST

Postby chem geek » Fri 01 Jul, 2011 10:37

The cloudiness is probably algae starting to grow. Shock the pool with chlorinating liquid or 6% unscented bleach, but if your CYA level is high, then you may need to do a partial drain/refill to lower it. Read how to Shock Your Pool.
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Cloudy Pool Water Support - READ FIRST

Postby poolbum » Fri 01 Jul, 2011 16:03

What I use for shock is Chlor brite granules from leslies pool. I have shocked it a couple times and finally this afternoon I think it is holding, and showing a little bit of clearing. I don't understand, I vacuum once or twice a week, and brush it almost daily if not every other day. Maybe with the heat we have been having I may have fallen behind on Chlorine. CAN I add to much chlorine?
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Cloudy Pool Water Support - READ FIRST

Postby chem geek » Fri 01 Jul, 2011 23:59

Chlor-Brite is Dichlor where for every 10 ppm Free Chlorine (FC) it also increases Cyanuric Acid (CYA) by 9 ppm. So unless your CYA is too low, you should not use this product. You should instead shock using chloirinating liquid or 6% unscented bleach or possibly Cal-Hypo if your Calcium Hardness (CH) isn't too high.

Higher CYA levels make chlorine less effective so using stabilized chlorine when the CYA is already too high just exacerbates the problem in the long-run since only water dilution will lower the CYA level.

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