How hard can it be to get a pool's chem. at a safe level?

Water bugs, swimming insects and sweat bees.
Foaming bubbly water. Frogs in the pool.
Dead animals in the swimming pool.
hipertongue

How hard can it be to get a pool's chem. at a safe level?

Postby hipertongue » Sat 04 Jun, 2005 03:06



Hi..we just purchased our home which also included an above ground pool. The pool has a 16000 gallon water capacity and has very good equipment.

Last week we began getting our pool ready for summer. We took a water sample to our pool person for testing. He gave us a detailed explaination of what chemicals and how much to use. Which we followed precisely.

Almost a week later our pool is still a tourquois green and cloudy. We again took a water sample in for testing and was again given instructions on which chemicals we now need and how much we needed.

To date, we've already invested nearly $200 just in chemicals and I'm beginning to wonder whether the pool & chemical dealer is just making easy money off of a couple of pool newbies?

We were told the first time that our TA level was too high...and this last time, too low. Is this a normal problem when getting the pool opened or does this sound like we're being taken advantage of due to our ignorance in operating our pool?

Any input you folks might offer would be greatly appreciated.

Deb


John B.

Postby John B. » Tue 05 Jul, 2005 13:51

Hi Deb,

Total Alkalinity and pH are very closely related. What is used to lower one will lower the other and the same for raising.

My advice is to get your pH in line first. For your sanitizer to work at optimum performance, the pH sholud be in the range of 7.2 to 7.6.

Once your pH is within this range, shock the pool (superchlorinate). I recommend liquid chlorine rather than the bags of dry shock.

After shocking, run your filter for 24 hours keeping an eye on the pressure. If the pressure rises before 24 hours, backwash the filter and let it continue to run after backwashing.

After the 24 hour period and after back washing, turn the filter off and let the rest of the dead algea (which is probably making your pool green and cloudy) settle out to the bottom. Then give it a good vacuuming and backwash again. THis should clean up the green stuff.

Now start working on adjusting the TA. Do this slowly and it will have a lesser effect on the pH.

Once the pH is 7.2 to 7.6 and the TA is 80-110, your pool is balanced. Continue to check the chlorine and pH levels on a daily basis and adjust as needed. If the TA is correct, the pH should stay stabel.

If the pool still has a green look to it, repeat the shock, filter, vacuum procedure until clear and blue.

P.S. Most pool dealers do not check for algea, just chemistry. TA is sometimes difficult and it is easy to overshoot in one direction or the other. That's why you need to adjust slowly.

I hope this helps!

John
John B.

Postby John B. » Tue 05 Jul, 2005 13:53

Hi Deb,

Total Alkalinity and pH are very closely related. What is used to lower one will lower the other and the same for raising.

My advice is to get your pH in line first. For your sanitizer to work at optimum performance, the pH sholud be in the range of 7.2 to 7.6.

Once your pH is within this range, shock the pool (superchlorinate). I recommend liquid chlorine rather than the bags of dry shock.

After shocking, run your filter for 24 hours keeping an eye on the pressure. If the pressure rises before 24 hours, backwash the filter and let it continue to run after backwashing.

After the 24 hour period and after back washing, turn the filter off and let the rest of the dead algea (which is probably making your pool green and cloudy) settle out to the bottom. Then give it a good vacuuming and backwash again. THis should clean up the green stuff.

Now start working on adjusting the TA. Do this slowly and it will have a lesser effect on the pH.

Once the pH is 7.2 to 7.6 and the TA is 80-110, your pool is balanced. Continue to check the chlorine and pH levels on a daily basis and adjust as needed. If the TA is correct, the pH should stay stabel.

If the pool still has a green look to it, repeat the shock, filter, vacuum procedure until clear and blue.

P.S. Most pool dealers do not check for algea, just chemistry. TA is sometimes difficult and it is easy to overshoot in one direction or the other. That's why you need to adjust slowly.

I hope this helps!

John

Return to “General Pool Water Problems”

Who is online at the Pool Help Forum

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 1 guest