Hi, two weeks ago I found algae on the bottom of my pool. I shocked it and put algaecide in it. The water became a milky color quickly. I ran the filter for days thinking I put in too many chemicals at once. The water stayed the same color. Yesterday I took a sample of the water to a local pool store. They said that all the chemical levels were good except I have phosphates at a level of 300. I was also told to use phosphate remover and to vacuum the next day. I went out today and sure enough the water looks a whole lot clearer and there was white stuff on the bottom of the pool. I tried to vacuum the pool with the attachment that connects to the hose. Did not work. The white stuff started to mix very quickly into the water again. I tried using a micro filter bag that I had for a battery operated pool vacuum and it still did not pick it up, just blew it around. If anyone has any cheap or non-costly ideas on how to get this stuff out of my pool without emptying the pool, it will be greatly appreciated.
Getting Aggrevated
Milky pool water
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- Pool Enthusiast
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Milky pool water
I have also face the similar problem with my water pool. But i don't get any solution.
We provides protection against low water flow, lead leaching, corrosion and Water Leaks.
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- Swimming Pool Superstar
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- My Pool: 16 x 32 gunite21000 gal., Diamond Brite Blue, Swimquip XL pump, DE36
- Location: Texas
Milky pool water
This is one of the many great examples why pools needs a bottom drain. (There is still people that argue with me about this).
If it is so hard to get it out with bottom drain imagine the futile effort to get it out by skimmers.
Anyway, it may be the residue or rather inner ingredients of your shock dose.
It is fine powder and will not harm your surface. Let the cleaner hose direct it toward the drain and it wil be gone in a couple of days.
Your focus should be on making sure that you keep killing the algae, so it will not come back.
300ppm of phosphates is hardly a reason to spend 40 bucks on Phosphate Remover.
It's cost constitutes 20 pounds of high grade chlorine, if bought in the bulk bucket.
If you hold your FC around 8% of CYA level, you will not need these expensive remedies nor the frustration and extra labor.
It used to be a little diferrent when pound of shock was 99 cents and gas to go get it under a buck.
It pays of to get educated and sip the Starbucks coffee instead, while watching the clear shimmering pool water!
Good luck!
If it is so hard to get it out with bottom drain imagine the futile effort to get it out by skimmers.
Anyway, it may be the residue or rather inner ingredients of your shock dose.
It is fine powder and will not harm your surface. Let the cleaner hose direct it toward the drain and it wil be gone in a couple of days.
Your focus should be on making sure that you keep killing the algae, so it will not come back.
300ppm of phosphates is hardly a reason to spend 40 bucks on Phosphate Remover.
It's cost constitutes 20 pounds of high grade chlorine, if bought in the bulk bucket.
If you hold your FC around 8% of CYA level, you will not need these expensive remedies nor the frustration and extra labor.
It used to be a little diferrent when pound of shock was 99 cents and gas to go get it under a buck.
It pays of to get educated and sip the Starbucks coffee instead, while watching the clear shimmering pool water!
Good luck!
Milky pool water
We had a hurricane and our pool was dirty. We shocked it plus put in "copper" a blue powder. It has stayed blue for a wk and when testing, it shows clorine high and on the other clorine color or yellow also not purple or light lavendor. What to do??
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