Slide Valve partially broken

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kingamoon
Pool Newbie
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Posts: 7
Joined: Sun 17 Jul, 2011 23:54
Location: Arizona

Slide Valve partially broken

Postby kingamoon » Sat 31 Mar, 2012 13:54

I'm very new to pool maintenance so forgive me ignorance when it comes to terms.

I have this sand filter for my in ground pool :

Image

The plastic cover of the bottom of the Slide Valve was detached yesterday as indicated in the following :
Image

Now even though I can still operate the valve to backwash, I can't figure out what mode it's on (Filter, Close ..etc). Should I just purchase that part (it's a kit and it's pretty pricey) or is it pretty straight forward what the setting is without the labels or the plastic part?

Any help would greatly be appreciated.


JohnnyBceo
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My Pool: 21r Gray Stone, Fish Print Liner(beaded), E200 System, Ionizer and a set of wedding cake steps.
Location: VA

Slide Valve partially broken

Postby JohnnyBceo » Wed 25 Apr, 2012 15:05

is there any way you can contact the place you got the pool and see if the can come out and mark what each setting is for you?
cpo2go
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My Pool: 27,000 gal, pebble tec, all Pentair equipment; DE filter, 3/4 hp, 400k heater, Poolvergnuegen 4x Pool Cleaner
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Slide Valve partially broken

Postby cpo2go » Sun 20 May, 2012 14:57

With a slide valve (also called a push-pull valve) it can only be in either backwash or filter position. If the water is returning to the pool, you're in filter mode. If it's blowing out your backwash/waste line, you're in backwash mode. :)
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kingamoon
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Joined: Sun 17 Jul, 2011 23:54
Location: Arizona

Slide Valve partially broken

Postby kingamoon » Tue 19 Jun, 2012 18:45

So that handle/piston part finally broke off and I ordered that part (not the entire assembly; just the handle and piston - Part Number SPX0410BA
Image

How do I go about replacing it?

Thanks for any help in advance
TSH Tech

Slide Valve partially broken

Postby TSH Tech » Wed 20 Jun, 2012 00:45

Blasted Hayward and their plastic pin design. :roll:

kingamoon wrote:
How do I go about replacing it?


Difficulty Level - 3
-Have some silicone o-ring lube or Boss 820 pool lube ready, this is an important step.
- Channel Lock/Pipe wrench

When you replace the old one, you're going to unscrew the plastic cap with the silver sticker on it, just below the "T" handle. You should be able to unscrew it by hand, but if it seems a little touch, use some Channel Lock pliers or a pipe wrench and gently unscrew the cap. Once you get it unscrewed, pull the "T" handle straight up and the entire assembly will lift out of the backwash tube body. Remove the screw cap and put it on the new assembly part.

On the new backwash "T" handle assembly, use the lubricants I suggested and apply them to the rubber rings assembled in the assembly. Anything rubber below the handle gets the treatment. There's also going to be a rubber o-ring that seals the cap you just unscrewed, no need to lube that o-ring. Just make sure it's secure and not stretched out. Anything wrong with that o-ring and it will have to be replaced.
With the backwash assembly lubed, insert the assembly straight into the backwash tube body. It may seem a little rigid to push down, but use some of your body weight to push it down in there. Just make sure you don't slam it into place, it needs to slide in without hitting anything. Once the valve assembly is in, you need to check for a notch so the valve will slide all the way down. To find the notch, turn the "T" handle until it falls completely into the notch. Now you are ready to screw the backwash valve top cap back on. Hand tighten at first, whatever you do, do NOT torque it down excessively with tools, it's only plastic and will break. When you feel you have it assembled, turn your pump on and check for any leaks. If you see any leaks, use the pliers or wrench to tighten it snug. The key word there is snug. If it still leaks, that cap O-ring will need to be replaced, because it's too crushed or worn to seal back up again. No amount of tightening will ever seal that cap leak with a bad o-ring.

Hope that helps!
kingamoon
Pool Newbie
Pool Newbie
Posts: 7
Joined: Sun 17 Jul, 2011 23:54
Location: Arizona

Slide Valve partially broken

Postby kingamoon » Wed 20 Jun, 2012 04:02

TSH Tech wrote:Blasted Hayward and their plastic pin design. :roll:

kingamoon wrote:
How do I go about replacing it?


Difficulty Level - 3
-Have some silicone o-ring lube or Boss 820 pool lube ready, this is an important step.
- Channel Lock/Pipe wrench

When you replace the old one, you're going to unscrew the plastic cap with the silver sticker on it, just below the "T" handle. You should be able to unscrew it by hand, but if it seems a little touch, use some Channel Lock pliers or a pipe wrench and gently unscrew the cap. Once you get it unscrewed, pull the "T" handle straight up and the entire assembly will lift out of the backwash tube body. Remove the screw cap and put it on the new assembly part.

On the new backwash "T" handle assembly, use the lubricants I suggested and apply them to the rubber rings assembled in the assembly. Anything rubber below the handle gets the treatment. There's also going to be a rubber o-ring that seals the cap you just unscrewed, no need to lube that o-ring. Just make sure it's secure and not stretched out. Anything wrong with that o-ring and it will have to be replaced.
With the backwash assembly lubed, insert the assembly straight into the backwash tube body. It may seem a little rigid to push down, but use some of your body weight to push it down in there. Just make sure you don't slam it into place, it needs to slide in without hitting anything. Once the valve assembly is in, you need to check for a notch so the valve will slide all the way down. To find the notch, turn the "T" handle until it falls completely into the notch. Now you are ready to screw the backwash valve top cap back on. Hand tighten at first, whatever you do, do NOT torque it down excessively with tools, it's only plastic and will break. When you feel you have it assembled, turn your pump on and check for any leaks. If you see any leaks, use the pliers or wrench to tighten it snug. The key word there is snug. If it still leaks, that cap O-ring will need to be replaced, because it's too crushed or worn to seal back up again. No amount of tightening will ever seal that cap leak with a bad o-ring.

Hope that helps!


Thank you so much for the help. The problem with the old part is that the T handle (along with the silver rod) was separated from the rest of the assembly (torn out). So from what you're saying, I should be able to pull the plastic rod (left over from the torn out T rod) with a pliers and be able to pull out the entire assembly? I tried doing that briefly but I feared having to break anything else so I stopped when it didn't come off easily. Maybe the lube will do the trick. I'll take pictures of my old assembly and the current state of the backwash valve and post it here in the morning.

Thanks again.
kingamoon
Pool Newbie
Pool Newbie
Posts: 7
Joined: Sun 17 Jul, 2011 23:54
Location: Arizona

Slide Valve partially broken

Postby kingamoon » Wed 20 Jun, 2012 04:03

Duplicate post - sorry :)
kingamoon
Pool Newbie
Pool Newbie
Posts: 7
Joined: Sun 17 Jul, 2011 23:54
Location: Arizona

Slide Valve partially broken

Postby kingamoon » Wed 20 Jun, 2012 04:04

Sorry about the double post. I don't know how to delete the duplicate :)
TSH Tech

Slide Valve partially broken

Postby TSH Tech » Thu 21 Jun, 2012 00:52

Mehhh, don't worry about duplicate posts, happens to the best of us :D

Yes, you should be able to get some pliers and lift straight up on the broken valve assembly. Make sure you unscrew that black valve cap first.

Those darn Hayward T handles break, especially when they're baking in the sunlight through their entire lifespan. When I'm out in the field working on the occasional plastic backwash handles that break, I have to pull on the metal rod with VIse-Grip pliers, or if they're really stubborn, get creative with a wood board for some lift leverage. If I have to use a wood board, the key is prying off of something sturdy as to not break my clients pool equipment.
The absolute worst case scenario, I'm talking where two technicians are trying to pull off a broken handle and it won't budge, is the unscrew the bulkheads from the filter and just replace the entire backwash valve. That's worst case, I don't foresee you going down this road of pool repair paradise.
kingamoon
Pool Newbie
Pool Newbie
Posts: 7
Joined: Sun 17 Jul, 2011 23:54
Location: Arizona

Slide Valve partially broken

Postby kingamoon » Thu 21 Jun, 2012 13:58

I think I might have to deal with the absolute worst case scenario you mentioned because I've tried pulling on it with all my strength and it won't come out :(

Before I return the part I bought and buy the entire assembly, I need to explore more options. Can I for example, cut it out piece by piece? Also how hard is it to replace the entire assembly?

Thanks again for all your help.

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