Intex 8110 Chlorine Generator Fix

[megaglow_z]

My generator just died completely.
The transformer in not outputting at all.
What/where can i get a transformer, and what are the exact specs i need?

Anyone?!

[new2me]

jandafields
I've modified one of these to be controlled by an Arduinohttp://www.arduino.cc/, bypassing the salinity(conductance) tests and timer, but utilizing the relays and fuses on the board. I've tried a couple of different control sets, to mimic what other SWG makers use. One was a percentage setting - where it operates for a set percentage(10,20,30,etc..) of a set time period(15 minutes, 30 miutes,etc..) and reverses after another set time period(2 hours, 4 hours,etc..) Another delayed for a set time, then ran for a set time, reversing at a set time. I have a pump timer that I like, and seems pretty reliable, so I use that to power on the SWG with the pump. I like the delay after starting, it gives the water a chance to mix, and me to get a sample, before the chlorine production starts.
I originally wanted to unsolder the Sonix mcu, and put a socket in its place, so that I could use the Arduino to program a chip and stick it in the socket, but I ran into a lack of ability. I also needed it done quickly, so I just used the parts of the board that I could decipher, and isolated the rest by cutting/removing components/traces. If you don't want to use an Arduino, you can just control the relays with inexpensive timers. I found the Arduino fun to play with.
Here is what I found for the relay control: K1 connects the rectifier output(24 VDC) to the NC terminals of relays K2 & K3, and the 5VDC control power too. The relays are switched by grounding them after K1 has supplied them with power. When K2 & K3 are NC, the cell is idle(has no power), Leaving K2 NC and switching K3 puts positive power to the cell, switching K2 and leaving K3 NC puts reverse power to the cell. The fuses are built in between the relay outputs and the terminal strip where the rectifier and cell connect.

The Green LED will come on with the cell. I wanted to use the two buttons and two 7 segment LEDs for the programming UI(User Interface), but I've found that it isn't necessary to alter the settings much, and when I do, I just plug my laptop into the Arduino via USB cord sticking out of the bottom. The unit looks just like a "stock" one, except when its running, only the green LED is on, the red 7 segment counter LEDs are not on and pushing the buttons doesn't do anything. There are also no error alarms, and I won't know if the fuses are blown until after the fact, When I get more time/motivation I would like to incorporate a power monitor that will alarm (bleep/flash LEDs) when set-points are reached (I don't know what the set-points even are!)

[Bronco_Guy]

Hi all,

Checking back to see if any of you are having success with your 8110. I notice my local Wal-Mart is carrying this product again, so I'm wondering if they have become reliable. One nice thing, Wal-Mart will usually respond to a return if you keep all your paperwork and are nice to them.

If you are as disappointed in this product as I was, I'd recommend dumping it altogether, and going with the Chlorease passive system. It hangs on the side of the pool and mine runs all the time. It has worked flawlessly for two seasons, looking forward to a third.

Two notes: if your water is hard like mine, you will need to clean the cell in a Muriatic acid solution as needed. It's cheap and simple, no big deal.

Second, after some research, I learned that the transformer for the Chlorease unit might be prone to thermal failure, so I rigged up a large plastic storage-type bin with an electric fan mounted in the bottom for cooling, much like you would cool a computer case. I mounted the transformer inside and can pop off the lid if I need to unplug anything. So far, so good.

I hate that the 8110 is not a better product, but I'm happy with the Chlorease unit as an alternative. If you have a soft-sided pool, I don't think the Chlorease will work, though. But you can research that.

Happy swimming, and God Bless!

[New2Me]

I've been using an Intex that I modified by replacing the Sonix microcontroller on the main board with an Arduino microcontroller project board. The Arduino (http://www.arduino.cc/) is an open source unit, the software is free, the board is ~$35. Not too difficult a swap (I'm not an electrician, or a programmer.) The program is simple to work with, I just tried to fix the things that I didn't like about the original, mainly that it lost its setting when the power was removed, and that the internal clock wasn't good. Now it is powered On by the pump timer/clock and runs its set program each time, after waiting for a delay that I put in. As I said before, it doesn't measure salinity, it just works.
Here's the program that wrote - http://www.arduino.cc/cgi-bin/yabb2/YaBB.pl?num=1269366253
maybe it will be useful to someone. or at least provide a chuckle!

[New2Me]

I can try to post pics of the circuit board, if anybody is interested. I have identified most of the components on it, but maybe someone else can figure out how they are supposed to work, or give tips on their functions. Let me know!

[jandafields]

New2Me, thank you for the information. Actually, back in August, I ended up doing almost the same thing that you did in your post. I tore the unit apart, identified the relays and fuses, etc.

One thing to note: There is no need to cut any traces or wires. The unit will still be controlled by what ever you use to control it, AND it is still in original working order as well. You just don't set any schedule on it.

Anyway, instead of the Arduino, I used a single-board-computer with a homemade serial port controller. This gives me much more flexibility. I have it connected to a web-based interface, so I just log into the controller from anywhere, see if it is running, manually turn it on/off, set unlimited number of schedules. The pump and swg have their own schedules so I can have the pump run as much as I want without affecting the amount that the swg runs. It has a fail safety... if the flow detector in the swg does not detect flow, the pump and swg are turned off automatically. (Normally this is due to a clogged filter from bugs and dirt making the flow too slow that the detector trips). Pollen and bugs this year are HORRIBLE!

I'm working on interfacing a temperature sensor so the pump will automatically run when it gets below freezing outside during the winter.

[New2me]

Wow Jandafields, that sounds like a great project! I am very happy to share info and am interested in how you interface to the Intex, are you talking to it serially? It would be nice to not have to re-wire the dang thing! I have made a list for myself of the components I've identified on the board, and what it is that I think they do, which is fairly easy for the relays, but I am not sure about the salinity test circuitry. I would be happy to share it. Does yours still test/alarm salinity? What is your source for the single board computer, was one with a serial port not available?
Here is a link to a project that got me started with the Arduino, Piku has used temperature and pressure sensors in his, maybe the info will be useful to you, TFP is a great site too!
http://www.troublefreepool.com/diy-automated-controls-advice-solicited-t5708.html

I have seen several reports now that Intex has a new model available that has a copper ion generator on it too, but it does not have the chlorine production capacity of the 8110, so I am planning on acquiring a few more for spares before they disappear.
God Luck and Best wishes!

[jandafields]

There are several single-board-board computers avaialble, and most of them have serial and/or gpio ports. There is the soekris boards, the pc engines wrap/alix boards. They run linux. Some are windows capable. And there are tons others... you could even use a super old free desktop you might have laying around.

I don't talk serial directly to the intex, as it has no serial interface... but i have serial -> output pins that control the relays on the intex.

Basically, I have one wire for the one relay on the intex, another wire for the opposite relay on the intex (this way I can reverse back and forth to protect the intex plates, just like the onboard does.)

I have one wire for the flow detector.

Thanks for that other link. I will look into the pressure guage, that looks interesting.

I have one common wire.

As for salt-detector, I don't think that is necessary. You water is not going to magically get out of balance for salt. If salt does get too low, it simply won't work... but it would take a lot of rain overflow to get that bad. And you would figure this out and add more salt.

If there is too much salt, it will blow the intex fuse. Again, the only way this can happen is if you add way too much salt. No one is going to do that unless they don't understand what they are doing.

As for the actual interface, I used php and exec calls to do things like writing to the serial port to turn outputs on/off.

I use cron in the backend to do the scheduling, and other homemade scripts to do various checks. For example, to query what inputs are on, query the flow control input, etc.

[jandafields]

There are several single-board-board computers avaialble, and most of them have serial and/or gpio ports. There is the soekris boards, the pc engines wrap/alix boards. They run linux. Some are windows capable. And there are tons others... you could even use a super old free desktop you might have laying around.

I don't talk serial directly to the intex, as it has no serial interface... but i have serial -> output pins that control the relays on the intex.

Basically, I have one wire for the one relay on the intex, another wire for the opposite relay on the intex (this way I can reverse back and forth to protect the intex plates, just like the onboard does.)

I have one wire for the flow detector.

Thanks for that other link. I will look into the pressure guage, that looks interesting.

I have one common wire.

As for salt-detector, I don't think that is necessary. You water is not going to magically get out of balance for salt. If salt does get too low, it simply won't work... but it would take a lot of rain overflow to get that bad. And you would figure this out and add more salt.

If there is too much salt, it will blow the intex fuse. Again, the only way this can happen is if you add way too much salt. No one is going to do that unless they don't understand what they are doing.

As for the actual interface, I used php and exec calls to do things like writing to the serial port to turn outputs on/off.

I use cron in the backend to do the scheduling, and other homemade scripts to do various checks. For example, to query what inputs are on, query the flow control input, etc.

[New2Me]

I revised the program that I'm running on the Arduino so that it will self-clean every x runs. Before it would reverse 1/2 way through each run. Now, with it set to run 4 hours/day, and self clean every 5 cycles it will be 20 hours before it reverses polarity to self clean, like they designed it, to prolong cell life.

[lambchop]

keeps alarming code 92 ( high salt ) any solution ideas would be greatly appreciated so I can get my kids off my back!!

[New2Me]

First, are you sure that the salt level isn't too high? Test it, keep track of how much is being added, don't just add water or salt just because an alarm came in. Once in alarm, you must reset the unit (turn the power on/off) to clear the alarm so that it can re-test and resume. The Intex infers salt content by measuring the resistance/conductance between the cell plates. High salt alarm comes in when it detects low resistance/high conductance, Low salt alarm is from high resistance/low conductance. Something with low resistance touching two or more of the plates in the cell (like a hair, blade of grass, dead bug, etc..) can cause the resistance to be low and cause a high salt alarm. A coating of calcium on the plates will increase the resistance and cause a low salt alarm (time to acid clean the cell.)
Unplug the unit, and carefully inspect the cell. looking for anything that could be lodged inside, and clean it if needed. Sometimes removing the cell power cord and replacing it upside down will allow the unit to operate for awhile. Doing that will reverse the current flow inside the cell, just like when it self cleans. Plug the unit back in and see if it works.
Good Luck, and Best Wishes!

[drewcifer]

Hey , the "CODE 91" fix was said a while back regarding resistors. pull off cover carefully, both the flow sensor and cell power cables exit the case making lifting the plastic case difficult but manageable. look for three adjustable resisters, one above the other. They are marked (or mine was) VR1, VR2,and VR3 on the circuit board. they were black and about the diameter of a pencil eraser with a small Philips (+) adjustable head. The head was locked with glue? but it can be scraped off. The original suggestion said to turn the VR1 resister a quarter turn CCW. This did not work for me but I added an additional quarter turn CCW (now half a turn CCW) and it is back working as it did originally. I will keep an eye on my salt content to keep at 3000ppm as suggested in manual.

Thank god for this fix.. i was about to kick the brand new machine i bought on kijiji... she's running fine now.
and honestly took me less and 3 minutes to change.. i went inbwteen a quarter and half turn.
Its sounds like the have horrible quality control at the factory and are not calibrated accurately.

[Guest]

At least I have never had the 'low salt' code. Last year, pool was immaculate. If my memory is correct, you could smell the chlorine, and see a misty colour from the pump. Also, I think when the operation was complete, the green light below the LED display came on. Now, although the codes show it is working normally, there is no green light, no smell, no mist, and the water is going green. Is the generator knackered?

I have the same problem as phil, but i have model 8220. Everuthings looks fine, but it still doesn't make chlorine. Did anybody have this problem too and how did they solve it.

thanks, brian

[jlh]

I too have battled the infamous error 91. So in my experience, Never I repeat never add salt until you take clen the cell. Too much salt equals drain some water . It's a very easy fix. Comes apart with a screw driver. I use a CLR product to soak it then a long hack saw blade to scape out the deposits. Once clean I use compressed air to blow out the rest. I have used my system for 3 years now and with oeriodic cleanings it works great. Hope this Helped