Intex 8110 Chlorine Generator Fix

SWGs, salt water chlorine generators, chlorinators,
ozone generators, UV systems, . . .
EKLudwig1

Intex 8110 Chlorine Generator Fix

Postby EKLudwig1 » Sun 24 Jul, 2011 14:02

After reading the responses and experiencing the exact same problems after only a month and a half of use, I decided to dig deeper into the low salt problem everyone is experiencing. I pulled the entire unit out so I could get a better look at the components. Everybody seems to be focusing on the copper electrode which is the removable part that has two large copper bars. I discovered that isn't the problem at all. There are three thin metal plates about 5 inches long mounted a few millimeters from each other permanently inside the plastic cylinder. I also noticed a build up in between these plates and completely across the energizing terminals. I followed the troubleshooting guide previously and filled the cylinder with vinegar for about an hour. This time I did it again with the unit up on a workbench so I could see everything better. The first problem I noticed is that when I filled it up, there were air bubbles so the vinegar was not reaching some crucial places. I stood the unit on end (the flow sensor end) until the air bubbles worked their way to the top. Then I let the bubbles out and topped it off with vinegar. I could see the vinegar going to work as tiny gas bubbles were being released. The second problem I noticed was that it took a lot longer than an hour to remove all the build up that was shorting out the plates. About four hours later, the bubbles stopped and the plates and terminals were clean. I flushed the system out with fresh water, reinstalled it and everything is working fine. A couple notes, don't screw the electrode flange back on because the gas bubbles need someplace to go. Also, I jacked the electrode end of the cylinder up about 45 degrees to keep everything crucial submerged in vinegar. Make sure and use white distilled vinegar. Good luck to all of you. I hope this solves your problem.


dedison

Intex 8110 Chlorine Generator Fix

Postby dedison » Sun 31 Jul, 2011 19:21

I,ve been reading the posts, I too have a code 91 flashing alot,driving me nuts as the water is very salty now! The transtormer does feel quite hot. Where would I order a new one?? It sometimes works better if I do 1 hour at a time, not that handy to do that though, any suggestions??
sirlance15

Intex 8110 Chlorine Generator Fix

Postby sirlance15 » Wed 03 Aug, 2011 16:11

Hi all, new to this forum and would just like to agree with EkLudwig1's post, I also discoverd the problem to be the salt build up between the plates and around the terminals, I use kettle descaler to soak mine(works much better than vinegar) and also clean between the plates with a long thin knife this seems to solve the problem for a month or so not a permant fix but at least it stops the dreaded '91' code for a while.
texter

Intex 8110 Chlorine Generator Fix

Postby texter » Thu 06 Oct, 2011 00:11

Code 90 low flow error. Finally found what the problem was on my 8110. Would turn on system and approx 30 seconds later 90 error code would appear. Traced it to the connection on the flow switch connector. Took some small needle nose pliers and carefully squeezed the female metal connections inside the rubber cord connector on the cable side so they would make a tighter fit. I was able to get the pliers in between the rubber socket and the metal crimp connector to avoid possible damage to the rubber seal. So far so good. Hope this helps someone.
kp

Intex 8110 Chlorine Generator Fix

Postby kp » Mon 05 Dec, 2011 09:52

8110 temperature wrote:I think i may have a good explanation to the 91 or 92 codes. The 8110 measures the salt concentration through the conductivity of the salted water. And obviously, the conductivity of salted water - as any other solution or solid - is linked to the temperature of the solution or the material. As a result, the same salted water will feature a lower conductivity at 15C than at 25C. For reference, a salted water is twice more conductive at 37C than at 5C!

I have not seen anything about this from Intex or in any other place. your thoughts?


I have to agree with this - ours only pulls the 91 error when the weather turns colder - Nov thru Mar or so.
Guest

Intex 8110 Chlorine Generator Fix

Postby Guest » Sun 18 Mar, 2012 09:57

What if your resistors aren't marked VR1, VR2 or VR3? Mine seem to be marked something different.
meezerocity

Intex 8110 Chlorine Generator Fix

Postby meezerocity » Sun 01 Apr, 2012 08:07

There seem to be many ideas about how to re-calibrate the machine or by pass this and that on the circuit board. But the simplest solution is the obvious one. Vinegar does descale hard water deposits, but I was using vinegar and still get low salt codes. My salt is at 35000ppm according to the local pool store. Living in South Central Texas and dealing with hard water all my life I went back to the tired and true hard water cleaner that my parents relied on..... Sanivac. This is a purple colored solution that eats up hard water deposits. I put the end cap on the unit and filled the tube with 1/2 water and 1/2 Sanivac. I left it overnight. This morning I have shiny clean plates and no hard water deposits. I'm going to work harder at maintaining better ph this season and see if the vinegar will serve to maintain the system. I don't think I would use the sanivac all the time. IT is a strong chemical and can ruin your clothes and kill the grass so I did this work on my patio and drained it in the sing. I can't help but wonder just how efficient the machines that have been re-calibrated not to throw codes are working.
YvanL

Intex 8110 Chlorine Generator Fix

Postby YvanL » Wed 11 Apr, 2012 07:48

Believe me: Water temparture to low! It has to be +-20° otherwise code 91 is still occuring.
Steve1

Intex 8110 Chlorine Generator Fix

Postby Steve1 » Wed 18 Apr, 2012 08:11

Please help! I have the 8230 model and keep getting the 91 code. Salt levels are fine. The titanium plates are clean. I have reversed the plug to reverse the polarisation. I have opened up the whole system and all seems fine. I've been told not to try the RV1,2,3,4 thing as this reduces the actual amount of chlorine produced. I dont have an electrical test kit so cant test all electrics working fine until I buy one. When I turn the system on it actually does produce chlorine for a couple of minutes as I've tested the water flowing into the pool, but after a couple of minutes the alarm sounds and chlorine production stops. I am getting desperate as I live in Cyprus and we are not allowed to fill our pools up ourself. It costs me 200 euros to fill it and Im now in danger of my water going off to the point of no return. Any other suggestions welcome, but I'm not an electrical genius. Does anybody know if until I get it working if I can just add my own chlorine? I've got visitors coming out on 25 Apr and they will want to use the pool.
Very aggravated

Intex 8110 Chlorine Generator Fix

Postby Very aggravated » Wed 02 May, 2012 14:39

I purchased my chlorine piece of junk generator last year and had issues with it like crazy and was glad the season was over. This year hoping for a new outcome everything was fine TILL NOW. It will click into working mode with the green light on but no chlorine is being generated and after 1 minute the service light comes. All my chemicals are exactly where they need to be,flow switch has been tested and works great. Cleaned out the electro cells overnight and crystal clear. So I am lost what to do and did I also mention when I purchased this item I lost the receipt two days later GO FIGURE. Any clues or rigg up I can do just to make chlorine would e great.
tal35
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Intex 8110 Chlorine Generator Fix

Postby tal35 » Sun 20 May, 2012 12:39

where do you get parts for the 8110?
Mr Know It ALL

Intex 8110 Chlorine Generator Fix

Postby Mr Know It ALL » Sat 26 May, 2012 13:17

If you need a sales invoice for warranty e mail the company you bought it from and dont forget upc on out side of box.
As for code 91 mine was a factory defect.only one plate was getting voltage.I have one comming from intek. In the mean time i used a 6mm wrench and turned the plugin pin the one that was not sending voltage one quater turn and i got a ohms reading. Reinstalled titanium electrode and it works like it was never defected.Now when i have to clean the plates ill have a spare to swap out.No downtime.Remember low salt is not always what is seems . Dont over salt your pool. Only the two outside plates should have an ohms reading to there plug in pins.
Mr Know It All

Intex 8110 Chlorine Generator Fix

Postby Mr Know It All » Sat 26 May, 2012 13:26

Get parts from intex 1-800-234-6839 or e-mail www.intexcorp.com
spike

Intex 8110 Chlorine Generator Fix

Postby spike » Sat 02 Jun, 2012 16:48

ATTENTION EVERYONE:

1 check salt content.
2 clean the plates- most common cause of code 91.
3 unplug it, take off the cover, turn VR1 1/4 to 1/2 turn CCW. (variable resistor 1, to the left)
4 hotwire the terd per the video found in this forum and put your electrical plug on a timer, DONT run the generator if the pool pump is not running. test your chlorine levels and clean the plates periodically.

As for the resistance check on the copper per request, I would be glad too but my 8110 doesnt have the coper unit ... but try a potentiometer if you get no response from bloggers and play with the adjustment until it works, use the lowest adjusment your can to get it to work.

A THOUGHT: couldnt we get an inexpensive battery maintainer/desulfator and run it directly to the plates. the desulfator just oscillates polarity, wouldn't this help to clean the plates.

If i'm correct:

***** Check on previous posts for proper amperage to run for your purchase of the maintainer/ desulfator. NOTE- These units aren't too high in price.
clip and leave plenty of wire off of the plug to the cell and plug to the flow meter
strip the wire ends down 1/4 inch
soldier and heatshrink on leg of the plug to one leg of the flow sensor, then soldier and heat shrink the other leg of the flow sensor to the negative side of the maintainer/ desulfator. Finish by soldiering and heat shrinking the positive side of the unit to the remaining wire on the plug. Get really fancy and buy a wall plug timer to run you're Frankenstein Monster. This is really all that is needed then check your water content for chlorine and adjust the timer to suit. They tried to build in bells and whistles that would be nice if they had used components made in a country other than the one they used.
.................NOW THE BEST PART <THROW EVERYTHING ELSE IN THE TRASH CAN, OR MAIL IT C.O.D. TO THE MANUFACTURER>!
Does anyone agree or disagree with my idea? I'm just a dumb car mechanic but thats the way I would roll. The VR1 adjustment has worked so far for me but if I have more issues I'm bringing the monster to life.






I have not seen anything about this from Intex or in any other place. your thoughts?[/quote]

I was thinking the same thing. I have a code 91 that activates after a minute or two after it starts running. So far I started testing parts of it.
First I tested the water coming out to see if it is making Chlorine for the minute or two that it was running. It indeed was making Chlorine.
Next I unplugged the electrolytic cell to see what it would do for codes. Again it gave me a code 91. So I plugged that connector back in and unplugged the connector to the copper electrodes. And Success. I ran for over an hour with no error codes and I made some Chlorine. After it ran the short cycle I went out and saw that is came up with an error code of 91 again. Bummer. Anyways, I thought I would do some readings of voltage and such on the leads going to each device. I got 13.5v on my electrolytic cell and on my copper electrodes I got 0.
So thinking it through a little I'm now thinking all the copper electrodes are there purely to test the amount of resistance there is in the water. Which is where "8110 temp" is going with this. Any who's to make this long winded message come to an end. Is there anyone out there with a working unit, with a pool that is in perfect shape (as far as the water is concerned), and that has a good meter that is willing to unplug the copper electrodes and measure the resistance between the two poles. I would like to see if I can substitute a resister in place of the copper electrodes.
At this point I have only owned this thing for 10 months and already have a flow switch that went out and now a code 91 issue.
Why didn't I return it and get parts under warranty you ask. Well living in Arizona receipts that see the heat tend to erase the writing on them. So they refuse to give me the parts under warranty. Sweet. Intex is a horrible company when it comes to customer service and satisfaction.
Thanks for all the information given thus far on this thread. All great help..[/quote]
Spike

Intex 8110 Chlorine Generator Fix

Postby Spike » Sun 03 Jun, 2012 09:54

[quote="spike"]ATTENTION EVERYONE:

1. check / adjust the salt content as needed using something other than the codes on the unit.
2. clean the plates- most common cause of code 91. Do not scratch the metal. (hard water calcium build up)
3. unplug it, take off the cover, turn VR1 1/4 to 1/2 turn CCW. (variable resistor 1, to the left). Wait and see if it works. (don't get your hopes up even if it works for the first day).
4. hotwire the terd or is it turd either way its crap .....per the video found in this forum and put your electrical plug on a " grounded timer", DONT run the generator if the pool pump is not running. test your chlorine levels and clean the plates periodically.

As for the resistance check on the copper per request, I would be glad too but my 8110 doesnt have the coper unit ... but try a potentiometer if you get no response from bloggers and play with the adjustment until it works, use the lowest adjusment your can to get it to work.

A THOUGHT: couldnt we get an inexpensive battery maintainer/desulfator and run it directly to the plates. the desulfator just oscillates polarity, wouldn't this help to clean the plates.

If i'm correct:

***** Check on previous posts for proper amperage to run for your purchase of the maintainer/ desulfator. NOTE- These units aren't too high in price.
clip and leave plenty of wire off of the plug to the cell and plug to the flow meter
strip the wire ends down 1/4 inch
soldier and heatshrink on leg of the plug to one leg of the flow sensor, then soldier and heat shrink the other leg of the flow sensor to the negative side of the maintainer/ desulfator. Finish by soldiering and heat shrinking the positive side of the unit to the remaining wire on the plug. Get really fancy and buy a wall plug timer to run you're Frankenstein Monster. This is really all that is needed then check your water content for chlorine and adjust the timer to suit. They tried to build in bells and whistles that would be nice if they had used components made in a country other than the one they used.
.................NOW THE BEST PART <THROW EVERYTHING ELSE IN THE TRASH CAN, OR MAIL IT C.O.D. TO THE MANUFACTURER>!
Does anyone agree or disagree with my idea? I'm just a dumb car mechanic but thats the way I would roll. The VR1 adjustment has worked so far for me but if I have more issues I'm bringing the monster to life.

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