Intex 8110 Chlorine Generator Fix

tal35 · Postby **tal35** » Sun 20 May, 2012 12:39

where do you get parts for the 8110?

Mr Know It ALL · Postby **Mr Know It ALL** » Sat 26 May, 2012 13:17

If you need a sales invoice for warranty e mail the company you bought it from and dont forget upc on out side of box.
As for code 91 mine was a factory defect.only one plate was getting voltage.I have one comming from intek. In the mean time i used a 6mm wrench and turned the plugin pin the one that was not sending voltage one quater turn and i got a ohms reading. Reinstalled titanium electrode and it works like it was never defected.Now when i have to clean the plates ill have a spare to swap out.No downtime.Remember low salt is not always what is seems . Dont over salt your pool. Only the two outside plates should have an ohms reading to there plug in pins.

Mr Know It All · Postby **Mr Know It All** » Sat 26 May, 2012 13:26

Get parts from intex 1-800-234-6839 or e-mail www.intexcorp.com

spike · Postby **spike** » Sat 02 Jun, 2012 16:48

ATTENTION EVERYONE:

1 check salt content.
2 clean the plates- most common cause of code 91.
3 unplug it, take off the cover, turn VR1 1/4 to 1/2 turn CCW. (variable resistor 1, to the left)
4 hotwire the terd per the video found in this forum and put your electrical plug on a timer, DONT run the generator if the pool pump is not running. test your chlorine levels and clean the plates periodically.

As for the resistance check on the copper per request, I would be glad too but my 8110 doesnt have the coper unit ... but try a potentiometer if you get no response from bloggers and play with the adjustment until it works, use the lowest adjusment your can to get it to work.

A THOUGHT: couldnt we get an inexpensive battery maintainer/desulfator and run it directly to the plates. the desulfator just oscillates polarity, wouldn't this help to clean the plates.

If i'm correct:

***** Check on previous posts for proper amperage to run for your purchase of the maintainer/ desulfator. NOTE- These units aren't too high in price.
clip and leave plenty of wire off of the plug to the cell and plug to the flow meter
strip the wire ends down 1/4 inch
soldier and heatshrink on leg of the plug to one leg of the flow sensor, then soldier and heat shrink the other leg of the flow sensor to the negative side of the maintainer/ desulfator. Finish by soldiering and heat shrinking the positive side of the unit to the remaining wire on the plug. Get really fancy and buy a wall plug timer to run you're Frankenstein Monster. This is really all that is needed then check your water content for chlorine and adjust the timer to suit. They tried to build in bells and whistles that would be nice if they had used components made in a country other than the one they used.
.................NOW THE BEST PART <THROW EVERYTHING ELSE IN THE TRASH CAN, OR MAIL IT C.O.D. TO THE MANUFACTURER>!
Does anyone agree or disagree with my idea? I'm just a dumb car mechanic but thats the way I would roll. The VR1 adjustment has worked so far for me but if I have more issues I'm bringing the monster to life.

I have not seen anything about this from Intex or in any other place. your thoughts?[/quote]

I was thinking the same thing. I have a code 91 that activates after a minute or two after it starts running. So far I started testing parts of it.
First I tested the water coming out to see if it is making Chlorine for the minute or two that it was running. It indeed was making Chlorine.
Next I unplugged the electrolytic cell to see what it would do for codes. Again it gave me a code 91. So I plugged that connector back in and unplugged the connector to the copper electrodes. And Success. I ran for over an hour with no error codes and I made some Chlorine. After it ran the short cycle I went out and saw that is came up with an error code of 91 again. Bummer. Anyways, I thought I would do some readings of voltage and such on the leads going to each device. I got 13.5v on my electrolytic cell and on my copper electrodes I got 0.
So thinking it through a little I'm now thinking all the copper electrodes are there purely to test the amount of resistance there is in the water. Which is where "8110 temp" is going with this. Any who's to make this long winded message come to an end. Is there anyone out there with a working unit, with a pool that is in perfect shape (as far as the water is concerned), and that has a good meter that is willing to unplug the copper electrodes and measure the resistance between the two poles. I would like to see if I can substitute a resister in place of the copper electrodes.
At this point I have only owned this thing for 10 months and already have a flow switch that went out and now a code 91 issue.
Why didn't I return it and get parts under warranty you ask. Well living in Arizona receipts that see the heat tend to erase the writing on them. So they refuse to give me the parts under warranty. Sweet. Intex is a horrible company when it comes to customer service and satisfaction.
Thanks for all the information given thus far on this thread. All great help..[/quote]

Spike · Postby **Spike** » Sun 03 Jun, 2012 09:54

[quote="spike"]ATTENTION EVERYONE:

1. check / adjust the salt content as needed using something other than the codes on the unit.
2. clean the plates- most common cause of code 91. Do not scratch the metal. (hard water calcium build up)
3. unplug it, take off the cover, turn VR1 1/4 to 1/2 turn CCW. (variable resistor 1, to the left). Wait and see if it works. (don't get your hopes up even if it works for the first day).
4. hotwire the terd or is it turd either way its crap .....per the video found in this forum and put your electrical plug on a " grounded timer", DONT run the generator if the pool pump is not running. test your chlorine levels and clean the plates periodically.

As for the resistance check on the copper per request, I would be glad too but my 8110 doesnt have the coper unit ... but try a potentiometer if you get no response from bloggers and play with the adjustment until it works, use the lowest adjusment your can to get it to work.

A THOUGHT: couldnt we get an inexpensive battery maintainer/desulfator and run it directly to the plates. the desulfator just oscillates polarity, wouldn't this help to clean the plates.

If i'm correct:

***** Check on previous posts for proper amperage to run for your purchase of the maintainer/ desulfator. NOTE- These units aren't too high in price.
clip and leave plenty of wire off of the plug to the cell and plug to the flow meter
strip the wire ends down 1/4 inch
soldier and heatshrink on leg of the plug to one leg of the flow sensor, then soldier and heat shrink the other leg of the flow sensor to the negative side of the maintainer/ desulfator. Finish by soldiering and heat shrinking the positive side of the unit to the remaining wire on the plug. Get really fancy and buy a wall plug timer to run you're Frankenstein Monster. This is really all that is needed then check your water content for chlorine and adjust the timer to suit. They tried to build in bells and whistles that would be nice if they had used components made in a country other than the one they used.
.................NOW THE BEST PART <THROW EVERYTHING ELSE IN THE TRASH CAN, OR MAIL IT C.O.D. TO THE MANUFACTURER>!
Does anyone agree or disagree with my idea? I'm just a dumb car mechanic but thats the way I would roll. The VR1 adjustment has worked so far for me but if I have more issues I'm bringing the monster to life.

Bolson31 · Postby **Bolson31** » Sun 03 Jun, 2012 13:54

I was able to fix it. I did what the book called for which is basically closing up both ends of the unit where the water flows through and then filled up the cell unit with kitchen grade vinegar and let it sit for about an hour. After that I flushed it out with water. After that I noticed a lot of salt still built up on the titanium plates which are located right after the flow sensor. The vinegar did not get all the salt off so I used the end of a clothes hanger to chip the salt off. Worked ever since. I assume I will have to clean it again but it is a very easy fix. Not really a fix, just regular maintenance. Hope it works for you.

dlls22sport · Postby **dlls22sport** » Sat 07 Jul, 2012 02:01

I had this same problem until I cleaned the cell and copper plates removing all the calcium build up.I stopped running it during the day when its getting direct sunlight and it works like new.

dckrtny · Postby **dckrtny** » Wed 11 Jul, 2012 13:58

Does anyone know if you can gert a replacement transformer for the 8110 generator?

dckrtny · Postby **dckrtny** » Wed 11 Jul, 2012 14:00

HAving same problem with salt level code . Took apart and found the transformer is burned out.

Grandoak · Postby **Grandoak** » Mon 23 Jul, 2012 22:22

You can't get parts from these things from Intex. For the most part when it comes to pumps and saltwater chlorine generator, Intex is about as helpful as teats on a bull.

It seems that they would rether cell you a complete unit than provide replacement parts (Cells, impellers, etc.).

Wouldn't be surprised if it was all built in China and the folks stateside are clueless on the techincal details of what they sell.

Roxinator · Postby **Roxinator** » Sun 29 Jul, 2012 00:17

The post about reversing the polarity cord WORKS!
THANK YOU SO VERY MUCH!
I've been struggling with this problem for 4 years, always ending up buying a new unit.
THIS WORKS YEAH!!! simple!!! WOW! THANKS AGAIN! Happy swimming everyone!

cfar · Postby **cfar** » Fri 03 Aug, 2012 07:29

You think by now, they would come out with one that fixed these issues..... I have just lost my second one, just after warranty expired... Go figure...... I will try the rewiring... thx for the help

RudyN · Postby **RudyN** » Fri 10 Aug, 2012 15:17

cfar wrote:You think by now, they would come out with one that fixed these issues..... I have just lost my second one, just after warranty expired... Go figure...... I will try the rewiring... thx for the help

Did the 'rewiring' help and fix the issue?

RudyN · Postby **RudyN** » Mon 13 Aug, 2012 10:26

I'm trying to understand the Intex 8110 SWG controller circuitry and came across U5 which I'm troubled with. Unfortunately, I'm unable to read the markings on the IC and cannot figure its functions. Does anyone have any inside what this IC is and/or its function?
Help is appreciated,
RudyN

morganman310 · Postby **morganman310** » Mon 13 Aug, 2012 13:07

I had the same problem. Something that worked for me to fix the 91 error was to take a flat metal ruler and slide it between the two silver plates that run through the pipe. One side was so clogged that I had to apply pressure to remove the salt/buildup. It now works fine. (Be sure to unplug the power supply.)