Intex 8110 Chlorine Generator Fix

[coop5571]

can anyone help me locate the correct resistor to adjust on the new model CS8110 with copper boost. Is this even possible?

[Battman74]

Has anyone tried to just replace the titanium electrode? I have the sand filter/chlorinator combo and have cleaned the electrode many times and after doing so, it will work for a short while then I get the dreaded code 91. So i am thinking if it works for a short while after cleaning, could I just need a new electrode? the edges of the 3 thin blades look worn and I think the coating is gone and this is where I get most of my build up. My unit does not have the the adjustable resistors like the stand alone model, so I dont really have anything else to adjust or modify. I could try rewiring it like others have, but with the combo, I have the pump to worry about as well. Any thoughts?????

[RudyN]

Has anyone tried to just replace the titanium electrode? I have the sand filter/chlorinator combo and have cleaned the electrode many times and after doing so, it will work for a short while then I get the dreaded code 91. So i am thinking if it works for a short while after cleaning, could I just need a new electrode? the edges of the 3 thin blades look worn and I think the coating is gone and this is where I get most of my build up. My unit does not have the the adjustable resistors like the stand alone model, so I dont really have anything else to adjust or modify. I could try rewiring it like others have, but with the combo, I have the pump to worry about as well. Any thoughts?????

Sorry to tell you, but if the 'coating' is gone the electrode will have to be replaced (yes, not cheap). But in future, don't use any metal objects to clean the electrode from the calcium build up! Instead, block one side off, fill it up with white vinegar (cheap) and let it sit for a day or two. Flush it with water and all the build up will be gone!
For myself, I made the same mistake some years ago, ordered a new electrode and use the 'bad' one while soaking the good one with vinegar.
Good luck!

[Battman74]

Rudy N:

Thanks for the quick reply. I have used my SWG for three years and done great, It looks like the coating is worn just on the edges of the thin blades. Did the new electrode seem to do the trick for you? It looks like I will get a new electrode and hope that solves the issue. Good idea using the old electrode while the other soaks. At least you dont have any down time and can continue to filter. Thanks for the help!

[Battman74]

**UPDATE**

I recieved my new Titanium electrode in the mail yesterday from Intex, installed it and........no go. It didn't even look like it was trying to produce chlorine. I am heading out of town but my next move is to check to see if its getting power to the electrode. Almost ready to give up. Any suggestions of what to do next?

[mebobbob]

Tried vinegar cleaning [again], didn't help at all. Opened up an old unit that was warranty replaced [first time around they didn't ask for an exchange, just sent a new one.] The power terminals are all rusted, a long resistor right below/next to the terminal was corroded green, the connection to the board was gone. Explains that "service" light last year.
Anyway, opened up the code "91" operating unit connected to pool and corrosion wasn't as bad. Bought mine in 2012 [CS8110***C0] and there's no adjustable resistors. Looked around a bit and decided to plug it back in and turn it on. Changed operating hours to 2. With the hood up, it went through the geen blinking system check, heard a click of the fan presumably turning on, then it ran, for several minutes, no error. GREAT! Screwed the lid back on. ERROR 91! Erggh. Ran it again with hood up. No error. Put hood down - error.
So now, I left the hood up, hours set to 3, no error for an hour. I use a weather protector I made for it last year, just a tall square plastic tub with slots cut out for the hoses. I just set it over the whole unit. The unit is set on top of foot sq. landscaping stones so with the slots cut out and the gaps between the stones, there's plenty of ventilation.
I'll wait and see how it works with hood up while I try another <2 years warranty return of my "spare" that's rusted and corroded. I also double check to see if the fan is actually running on the "active" unit.

[Battman74]

***ANOTHER UPDATE***
So after installing my new titanium electrode and having it fail, I waited several days and tried it again. To my suprise it worked and was producing more chlorine than ever......But it kept a schedule for a week until I turned the power off to start the sand filter/pump to manually vacum the pool ( I have the model with the chlorine generator built into the sand filter, wich you have to turn the power off then on again to get out of sleep mode). After vacuming i reset it from FP to normal operation and I got the dreaded 91 Low Salt. I tried to unplug the power to reset it twice and the same thing happened. So I then disconnected the electrode plug and reveresed the plug (turned it updide down) and started it once more. It then took off and I could see it producing chlorine and has been working for two days now with my fingers crossed. I have determined that it is important to clean the electrone often, but where I started with a new electrode and have still had issues, there is a underlining problem somewhere else. I wish I could figure out what it is, strange machines these are.

[Av'it]

To Kenwwod: imagine the screw contacts were numbered 1-4 starting at the bottom, You would move wire 4 to 3 and move wire 1 to 2. You will end up with two wires attached to contact 2 and 3. This bypasses the circuit board and allows the DC current to flow straight to the cell ALL THE TIME WHEN THE UNIT IS PLUGGED IN SO don't leave it on too long without waterflow. The unit will still come on and the LED will still lite up but there is no reason to turn the switch on. From my testing, the transformer is energized all the time when the unit is plugged in just out of the box so this is not a big change. You can check the cell to see it working by plugging it in and waiting 30-60 seconds then turn the filter pump on. You should see a lot of bubbles coming out of the return line into the pool briefly. You can also take the left side hose off while holding the 8110 up on end. With pool water over the cell, plug the unit in. You should see the bubbling and white chlorine being produced at the end of the cell and smell the chlorine. The other slight concern I had was the unit cannot auto clean the cell when wired this way. I found the plug on the cell can fit on both ways so I reverse it occasionally. I have not tried to figure out if one polarity produces more chlorine in comparison to the other. To understand the concept behind the 8110, you can make chlorine with a 9V battery, 2 old spoons, 2 pieces of wire, a drinking glass, and some salt water. It's pretty cool! Let me know if you have any more questions. Make sure it's unplugged before rewiring. It's DC but it can still hurt you.

So just done this as a last resort , works perfectly and been pumping its little heart out for a good few hours , ahh the fresh chlorine smell yet again . 1into 2. And 4 into 3 , plugged in , instant chlorine with no beeping , 91 & 92 false codes .... It's the future !!

[mebobbob]

Well it took intex a month to get me a whole new unit [my 4th CS8110]. A new one always works great!
I noticed on my last code 91 unit, the electrode housing was actually bad. I was cracked [a crack that grew], stared to leak a tiny bit, then seeping some black goo. Looks as strange as it sounds.
Glad to have a brand new unit. Maybe the electonics are still good on the last one and I'll keep it as spare/back up parts.

[Av'it]

To Kenwwod: imagine the screw contacts were numbered 1-4 starting at the bottom, You would move wire 4 to 3 and move wire 1 to 2. You will end up with two wires attached to contact 2 and 3. This bypasses the circuit board and allows the DC current to flow straight to the cell ALL THE TIME WHEN THE UNIT IS PLUGGED IN SO don't leave it on too long without waterflow. The unit will still come on and the LED will still lite up but there is no reason to turn the switch on. From my testing, the transformer is energized all the time when the unit is plugged in just out of the box so this is not a big change. You can check the cell to see it working by plugging it in and waiting 30-60 seconds then turn the filter pump on. You should see a lot of bubbles coming out of the return line into the pool briefly. You can also take the left side hose off while holding the 8110 up on end. With pool water over the cell, plug the unit in. You should see the bubbling and white chlorine being produced at the end of the cell and smell the chlorine. The other slight concern I had was the unit cannot auto clean the cell when wired this way. I found the plug on the cell can fit on both ways so I reverse it occasionally. I have not tried to figure out if one polarity produces more chlorine in comparison to the other. To understand the concept behind the 8110, you can make chlorine with a 9V battery, 2 old spoons, 2 pieces of wire, a drinking glass, and some salt water. It's pretty cool! Let me know if you have any more questions. Make sure it's unplugged before rewiring. It's DC but it can still hurt you.

So just done this as a last resort , works perfectly and been pumping its little heart out for a good few hours , ahh the fresh chlorine smell yet again . 1into 2. And 4 into 3 , plugged in , instant chlorine with no beeping , 91 & 92 false codes .... It's the future !!

Actually mine is a 8231 unit , but same electrics I guess are the same , sticker inside was manufactured in 2006 !!! Still working perfectly by bypassing the control panel

[chuckandtw]

I have had my 8110 Intex Krystal Clear Saltwater system for just over a year. Today, the electrolytic Cell starting smoking on the top where there large plug in is at. I run it in the evening when there is no sun on it. HELP!!!

[texasdude]

I have been dealing with the Error 91 issue for three weeks now. I am in the Dallas/Ft. Worth area of Texas and believe the problem to be thermal in nature. Our ambient temperatures have gone over 100 daily and only drop to about 80 at night.
Today, working an idea, I have gone from 1-2 hours max, to currently 6hrs.
I believe I may have come across the root cause of the code 91 error. I would like a couple of people to reply to help test my theory before I post.
My solution currently has NO modifications, but does require cover to be off temporarily.
I have NOT researched cost of resolution, but it should not be that expensive.
If you are willing to try to help the community, please respond.
This is NOT BS, I just don't want to post something that won't work.

[RudyN]

I have been dealing with the Error 91 issue for three weeks now. I am in the Dallas/Ft. Worth area of Texas and believe the problem to be thermal in nature. Our ambient temperatures have gone over 100 daily and only drop to about 80 at night.
Today, working an idea, I have gone from 1-2 hours max, to currently 6hrs.
I believe I may have come across the root cause of the code 91 error. I would like a couple of people to reply to help test my theory before I post.
My solution currently has NO modifications, but does require cover to be off temporarily.
I have NOT researched cost of resolution, but it should not be that expensive.
If you are willing to try to help the community, please respond.
This is NOT BS, I just don't want to post something that won't work.

Well, let me know your suggestions and look into it. Our ambient temperatures here in Arizona are probably similar as in Ft. Worth, Texas.

[RudyN]

I have been dealing with the Error 91 issue for three weeks now. I am in the Dallas/Ft. Worth area of Texas and believe the problem to be thermal in nature. Our ambient temperatures have gone over 100 daily and only drop to about 80 at night.
Today, working an idea, I have gone from 1-2 hours max, to currently 6hrs.
I believe I may have come across the root cause of the code 91 error. I would like a couple of people to reply to help test my theory before I post.
My solution currently has NO modifications, but does require cover to be off temporarily.
I have NOT researched cost of resolution, but it should not be that expensive.
If you are willing to try to help the community, please respond.
This is NOT BS, I just don't want to post something that won't work.

Another fact to remember is, with higher pool water temperatures the resistivity of the salt water goes up and the current flow through the cell goes down (triggering code 91). Had same issues a few years ago. To fix this (for the summer months) I added more salt to the water to increase the salinity by about 500 ppm. This might help most code 91 sufferers, as long as the pH and other water chemistry items are correct and no other SWG parts are defective.
Are we having fun?

[mebobbob]

I have had my 8110 Intex Krystal Clear Saltwater system for just over a year. Today, the electrolytic Cell starting smoking on the top where there large plug in is at. I run it in the evening when there is no sun on it. HELP!!!

its still under warranty. tell intex its a safety hazard, get a warranty replacement.
I've gone through 3 in a year and half! I couldn't find my reciept last year but the store I purchased from [Academy] was able to provide a letter to confirm proof of purchase and date.