Intex 8110 Chlorine Generator Fix

[georgiaboy001]

Just started getting a code 91 with my Intex salt system about a week ago. We were leaving for vacation so I decided to deal with the problem when I got back. I tested the salt concentration and it was a bit low, about 2600 so I added some. Still got the code 91. I noticed that where the large black flat plug plugs on was brown and discolored, so I about came to the conclusion that the cell was bad. I took the cell off the unit, and the plates were clean, so I took my ohm meter and began doing some checking. It may be in this thread somewhere,(its a lot to read) but I had no continuity between one of the terminals where the plug goes and the outside plate on the one that was discolored. The other was fine. My unit was bought in May of last year, so I called Intex and talked to a rep and started a warranty claim. I thought this might be some good info on how to determine that your cell is actually BAD and not just dirty or having problems elsewhere. Measure ohms or continuity from each connector pole to the END of each of the OUTSIDE titanium plates. The middle one is not connected to anything. Also you should have 13.5v at the plug with the unit running as a lot of other people have mentioned. Just passing this along, my apologies if it has been covered elsewhere. Great forum, just found it dealing with this problem. I'm sure I will be using it for more pool information!

[zorro11p]

I've been struggling this year with this problem. This is only the 2nd year I've used it. I cleaned the plates and it worked for a week. Flipped the plug and it worked for a week. I do notice that everytime I disconnect the plug it's always wet. I think there may be a small leak that I can't find, due to pulling that big black connector off so many times. Where is the most likely place for this leak? Maybe the 2 terminal posts?

[zorro11p]

Also ... this has been asked but not answered. What is the difference between a CS8110 and the new 54601EG. I'm temped to buy the new one. I can still find the old one and use my current one for spare parts.

[mebobbob]

For what it's worth to everyone, keep in mind that these things are very cheaply made, extremely low quality checks. As you see in these posts, different parts fail fairly easily. You may a good one, you may have the opposite. Use the warranty as long as you can!! I now have a collection of broken ones: corrosion on the board, cracked and leaky electrode module, who knows on the other one. I didn't have an operational unit until mid summer this year.I'm not handy with board soldering or very patient. It stops working and recommended maintenance/cleaning don't help? call intex for a warranty replacement. For the last several years, I'd guess most sold units are replaced at least once. It's hard to believe this is even a financially sustainable product!
That being said, is there a better value/quality for the money solution? nope.

[Guest]

If you have an INTEX 8110 Chlorine Generator that continuously gives you salt level codes that prevents you from continuing to chlorinate (when you have verified that the salt ppm is OK) you may be interested in a "fix." It requires a little technical aptitude, but it works great. I'll never go back to chlorine tabs or granular. I'll post the fix based upon the positive responses.

[RudyN]

If you have an INTEX 8110 Chlorine Generator that continuously gives you salt level codes that prevents you from continuing to chlorinate (when you have verified that the salt ppm is OK) you may be interested in a "fix." It requires a little technical aptitude, but it works great. I'll never go back to chlorine tabs or granular. I'll post the fix based upon the positive responses.

Good post, thanks. I've had many issues with the INTEX 8110 system over the years and after 4 systems and indepth system analysis, it came apparent that it will not work in the long run especially when used in a 'hot' climate, like Arizona. All failed systems (on my end) were suffering power supply issues, like blown recitifiers and transformers. Out of the 4 damaged transformers, I believe 2 of them were busted due to shorted rectifiers. There is no protection (fuses) between the two, which would prevent the transformer to be overstressed and fail.
I'm wondering what your issues were and what fixes you are suggesting. Please let us know, thanks in advance.

[74charger]

I had the same problem for two days. i noticed that the connection for the cell was hot and also noticed that there was an air gap inside the tube where the connection starts from the inside unit. i got rid of the air by tilting the unit and it seems to have started and has not given me a low salt error. i will see if this fix works.

[Jimbochap]

I have had my 8110 Intex Krystal Clear Saltwater system for just over a year. Today, the electrolytic Cell starting smoking on the top where there large plug in is at. I run it in the evening when there is no sun on it. HELP!!!

Mine the electrlytic cell plug is getting really warm, no smoke yet, I justturned it off, until I know more about this problem...........what causes this and is there a fix.............read something earlier about flipping the plug over and running it that way?

What will that do?

Help, it's getting warm out and my kids want to swim.........

[Jimbochap]

Well now it appears to be smoking and leaking slightly, so I guess there is no sense trying to do anything with this one now and I am now getting the code 91 low salt and I know that isn't true. I just put 6 bags of salt in it.

Guess I will be looking for a replacement.

Going to call Intex on Monday and see just how good their 2-year warranty is. I believe I still have the reciept somewhere here.

[Fisher]

the model i have is the 8220. I quess it is the same as the 8110, but in holland we have 220 volts, and in the us 110 volts ??? thats the only different i quess, because it looks completely the same. The problem i have is that it gives no error code at all. It seems that the machine is wordking normally, time is counting down and it even displays 93 when its finished. The only problem is no chlorine and the green led won't go on. It isn't broken, i've tested it. Because nobody had an answer, even Intex had no clue, i bought a new one today. And it has the same problem, so i quess the machine is allright but there is something wrong with the pool. The salt is good, the Ph is good, there is a good flow of water, what else can be wrong.

Have you manage to fix it?

Got the same strange issue this summer since the pool opening.
Last summer my Intex 8111 SWG worked flawlessly.
This year the pump is running, the power LED is green but the chlorine LED is not green and no chlorine produced at all. No error codes, no other issues. It runs for the programmed time and then goes to standby (code 93).

What I have tried:

1. Measured voltage on the cell (0V), on the rectifier output (AC 24V), after cell control relays on the control circuit board (0V).

2. Tried to rewired cell wires to bypass the control circuit board. This way chlorine is produced. This seem to prove that the cell is good and the transformer is supplying enough power to the cell.

3. Tried to swap all possible components (flow sensor, cell, control circuit board, rectifier, LED panel, power board) from another 8111 unit that had a transformer failure in the past. No change. The same behavior persists, no chlorine produced.

4. Disconnected the flow sensor. The unit gives correctly the code 90.

5. Measured pH, salt level, chlorine in the water. Everything is normal. The salt amount added is the same as the previous year.

It looks like for some reason the control circuit is not willing to enable the relays that give voltage to the cell. I would think that this is a control circuit board failure, but the board swapped from another unit of the same age (4 years) produces the same result....

I am lost ...
Any suggestions would be appreciated

[Chadholt20]

Number 3 might help, copied from fixya.

***This is how you fix the unfixable code 91***

Code 91 is generated by lack of conductivity between plate 1 & plate 3 of the titanium plate set. This can be caused by 3 possibilities.

1. The salt is low - easily tested
2. The Plates are covered with lime scale - easily cleaned with vinegar
3. The one or both of the connections to the plates are corroded and there is
a break in the circuit

I took a meter to my salt cell ( the tube with the plates in it). The outer 2 plates should have continuity with the plug prongs on their respective sides (where the unit plugs in to the control unit) The middle plate is not connected to either plug.
One of my prongs did not have continuity to the plate (thus the cell generated a code 91 - because there was no voltage to detect.

I took a dremel tool and cut a one inch square out of the back of the housing. I then used a round ball bit in the dremel to remove the plastic around the back of the prong. The back of the plug is conneted to the metal tab that is attached to the titanium plate via a 9/32 post and nut. What happens is that water intrudes from the seam in the front of the prong and corrodes the bolt face and the tab surface creating the break in the circuit. I removed the corrosion and applied dielectric grease (used on headlight bulbs and available at the auto parts store) to the back of the nut and the shaft of the bolt and reinstalled. I tested with the ohms/resistance setting of my multimeter and found the circuit complete.
I then applied a covering of epoxy to the post and bolt and replaced the one inch piece of plastic that I removed and epoxied over the area. I sealed the front of the prongs with epoxy- there is a small area where the metal and plastic meet where the water entered. After reinstallation and hooking the machine up it functions perfectly. Intex is sending me a new unit under warranty-- as soon as it arrives I will seal the front of the prongs with some epoxy and store just in case.

[jeannine]

After reading all posts and all simple seeming fixes and all complicated fixes. I have a fix that has worked on two machines. Soak in every crook and cranny for 3 hours with glacial acidic acid (white)vinegar, rinse clean with hot water, reassemble machine, reverse the salt generator plug polarity,(turn the plug over). Fire it up! Has worked on two dead machines w/ the dreaded code 91. Worked now for weeks!!!

The new one I bought broke after a season and a half, also intex but different model. I tried cleaning the old cs8110 again with sraite vinagar and soaked 24 hours. Hooked it up but still low salt light. After reading this I flipped the chlotinator plug around and magically it started working!

[briggerman00]

new2me replied on my question, problem...thanks...

But my still problem isn't solved....

the model i have is the 8220. I quess it is the same as the 8110, but in holland we have 220 volts, and in the us 110 volts ??? thats the only different i quess, because it looks completely the same. The problem i have is that it gives no error code at all. It seems that the machine is wordking normally, time is counting down and it even displays 93 when its finished. The only problem is no chlorine and the green led won't go on. It isn't broken, i've tested it. Because nobody had an answer, even Intex had no clue, i bought a new one today. And it has the same problem, so i quess the machine is allright but there is something wrong with the pool. The salt is good, the Ph is good, there is a good flow of water, what else can be wrong. The only thing i can make up is that the salt is wrong ????? but is that possible, wrong salt ? The green light won't go on, does that mean that it makes no chlorine at all ? I've tested the power on the cells, and there was none...

who knows anything.....

thanks, Brian

I believe when you first turn it on you need to hold down the left button until it beeps twice then hold right button until it beeps twice then adjust your time then press left but on until beeps twice then hold right button until beeps twice then it should power on.

[ohbill]

Thanks to Chadholt20 for his solution to the Code 91 problem. I did as he did and it is now working. Only small differences, I used a Forstner bit on a drill press to open it up. I did use a dremel to eat away the epoxy at the terminal. Then when it was all clean and reconnected, used 5 minute epoxy to seal the connection and the rest of the old epoxy, and then siliconed the opening. Reconnected the next day and it works fine. chlorine levels are back up to where they should be. There is plenty of salt (4200 ppm) since I added 30 lbs twice when the unit first displayed 91.

Thanks again Chadholt20

[osiris2099]

low salt
i had the same problem, but i switched the wire leading from the saltwater pump to the titanium plates. just unscrew it and pull the connecter off to expose the metal leads and reverse it. works like new..

also low pump flow. just revers the metal lead to the connection that has the white flap at the bottom in the water