Intex 8110 Chlorine Generator Fix

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RudyN
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Joined: Fri 10 Aug, 2012 15:13
My Pool: Intex ABG, 15 feet dia, 48 inch deep, with Hayward pump/filter and Intex SWG
Location: Phoenix, AZ

Intex 8110 Chlorine Generator Fix

Postby RudyN » Tue 15 Oct, 2013 12:43

Pool User wrote:
Pool Hacker wrote:If you have an INTEX 8110 Chlorine Generator that continuously gives you salt level codes that prevents you from continuing to chlorinate (when you have verified that the salt ppm is OK) you may be interested in a "fix." It requires a little technical aptitude, but it works great. I'll never go back to chlorine tabs or granular. I'll post the fix based upon the positive responses.

Good post, thanks. I've had many issues with the INTEX 8110 system over the years and after 4 systems and indepth system analysis, it came apparent that it will not work in the long run especially when used in a 'hot' climate, like Arizona. All failed systems (on my end) were suffering power supply issues, like blown recitifiers and transformers. Out of the 4 damaged transformers, I believe 2 of them were busted due to shorted rectifiers. There is no protection (fuses) between the two, which would prevent the transformer to be overstressed and fail.
I'm wondering what your issues were and what fixes you are suggesting. Please let us know, thanks in advance.


74charger

Intex 8110 Chlorine Generator Fix

Postby 74charger » Wed 28 May, 2014 00:43

I had the same problem for two days. i noticed that the connection for the cell was hot and also noticed that there was an air gap inside the tube where the connection starts from the inside unit. i got rid of the air by tilting the unit and it seems to have started and has not given me a low salt error. i will see if this fix works.
Jimbochap

Intex 8110 Chlorine Generator Fix

Postby Jimbochap » Fri 30 May, 2014 19:50

chuckandtw wrote:I have had my 8110 Intex Krystal Clear Saltwater system for just over a year. Today, the electrolytic Cell starting smoking on the top where there large plug in is at. I run it in the evening when there is no sun on it. HELP!!!



Mine the electrlytic cell plug is getting really warm, no smoke yet, I justturned it off, until I know more about this problem...........what causes this and is there a fix.............read something earlier about flipping the plug over and running it that way?

What will that do?

Help, it's getting warm out and my kids want to swim.........
Jimbochap

Intex 8110 Chlorine Generator Fix

Postby Jimbochap » Sat 31 May, 2014 10:15

Well now it appears to be smoking and leaking slightly, so I guess there is no sense trying to do anything with this one now and I am now getting the code 91 low salt and I know that isn't true. I just put 6 bags of salt in it.

Guess I will be looking for a replacement.

Going to call Intex on Monday and see just how good their 2-year warranty is. I believe I still have the reciept somewhere here.
Fisher

Intex 8110 Chlorine Generator Fix

Postby Fisher » Sun 06 Jul, 2014 22:24

pool user brian wrote:the model i have is the 8220. I quess it is the same as the 8110, but in holland we have 220 volts, and in the us 110 volts ??? thats the only different i quess, because it looks completely the same. The problem i have is that it gives no error code at all. It seems that the machine is wordking normally, time is counting down and it even displays 93 when its finished. The only problem is no chlorine and the green led won't go on. It isn't broken, i've tested it. Because nobody had an answer, even Intex had no clue, i bought a new one today. And it has the same problem, so i quess the machine is allright but there is something wrong with the pool. The salt is good, the Ph is good, there is a good flow of water, what else can be wrong.


Have you manage to fix it?

Got the same strange issue this summer since the pool opening.
Last summer my Intex 8111 SWG worked flawlessly.
This year the pump is running, the power LED is green but the chlorine LED is not green and no chlorine produced at all. No error codes, no other issues. It runs for the programmed time and then goes to standby (code 93).

What I have tried:

1. Measured voltage on the cell (0V), on the rectifier output (AC 24V), after cell control relays on the control circuit board (0V).

2. Tried to rewired cell wires to bypass the control circuit board. This way chlorine is produced. This seem to prove that the cell is good and the transformer is supplying enough power to the cell.

3. Tried to swap all possible components (flow sensor, cell, control circuit board, rectifier, LED panel, power board) from another 8111 unit that had a transformer failure in the past. No change. The same behavior persists, no chlorine produced.

4. Disconnected the flow sensor. The unit gives correctly the code 90.

5. Measured pH, salt level, chlorine in the water. Everything is normal. The salt amount added is the same as the previous year.

It looks like for some reason the control circuit is not willing to enable the relays that give voltage to the cell. I would think that this is a control circuit board failure, but the board swapped from another unit of the same age (4 years) produces the same result....

I am lost ...
Any suggestions would be appreciated
Chadholt20

Intex 8110 Chlorine Generator Fix

Postby Chadholt20 » Mon 07 Jul, 2014 14:43

Number 3 might help, copied from fixya.

***This is how you fix the unfixable code 91***

Code 91 is generated by lack of conductivity between plate 1 & plate 3 of the titanium plate set. This can be caused by 3 possibilities.

1. The salt is low - easily tested
2. The Plates are covered with lime scale - easily cleaned with vinegar
3. The one or both of the connections to the plates are corroded and there is
a break in the circuit

I took a meter to my salt cell ( the tube with the plates in it). The outer 2 plates should have continuity with the plug prongs on their respective sides (where the unit plugs in to the control unit) The middle plate is not connected to either plug.
One of my prongs did not have continuity to the plate (thus the cell generated a code 91 - because there was no voltage to detect.

I took a dremel tool and cut a one inch square out of the back of the housing. I then used a round ball bit in the dremel to remove the plastic around the back of the prong. The back of the plug is conneted to the metal tab that is attached to the titanium plate via a 9/32 post and nut. What happens is that water intrudes from the seam in the front of the prong and corrodes the bolt face and the tab surface creating the break in the circuit. I removed the corrosion and applied dielectric grease (used on headlight bulbs and available at the auto parts store) to the back of the nut and the shaft of the bolt and reinstalled. I tested with the ohms/resistance setting of my multimeter and found the circuit complete.
I then applied a covering of epoxy to the post and bolt and replaced the one inch piece of plastic that I removed and epoxied over the area. I sealed the front of the prongs with epoxy- there is a small area where the metal and plastic meet where the water entered. After reinstallation and hooking the machine up it functions perfectly. Intex is sending me a new unit under warranty-- as soon as it arrives I will seal the front of the prongs with some epoxy and store just in case.
jeannine

Intex 8110 Chlorine Generator Fix

Postby jeannine » Sun 03 Aug, 2014 19:00

dadibaby wrote:After reading all posts and all simple seeming fixes and all complicated fixes. I have a fix that has worked on two machines. Soak in every crook and cranny for 3 hours with glacial acidic acid (white)vinegar, rinse clean with hot water, reassemble machine, reverse the salt generator plug polarity,(turn the plug over). Fire it up! Has worked on two dead machines w/ the dreaded code 91. Worked now for weeks!!!


The new one I bought broke after a season and a half, also intex but different model. I tried cleaning the old cs8110 again with sraite vinagar and soaked 24 hours. Hooked it up but still low salt light. After reading this I flipped the chlotinator plug around and magically it started working!
briggerman00

Intex 8110 Chlorine Generator Fix

Postby briggerman00 » Tue 05 Aug, 2014 20:33

pool user brian wrote:new2me replied on my question, problem...thanks...

But my still problem isn't solved....

the model i have is the 8220. I quess it is the same as the 8110, but in holland we have 220 volts, and in the us 110 volts ??? thats the only different i quess, because it looks completely the same. The problem i have is that it gives no error code at all. It seems that the machine is wordking normally, time is counting down and it even displays 93 when its finished. The only problem is no chlorine and the green led won't go on. It isn't broken, i've tested it. Because nobody had an answer, even Intex had no clue, i bought a new one today. And it has the same problem, so i quess the machine is allright but there is something wrong with the pool. The salt is good, the Ph is good, there is a good flow of water, what else can be wrong. The only thing i can make up is that the salt is wrong ????? but is that possible, wrong salt ? The green light won't go on, does that mean that it makes no chlorine at all ? I've tested the power on the cells, and there was none...

who knows anything.....

thanks, Brian

I believe when you first turn it on you need to hold down the left button until it beeps twice then hold right button until it beeps twice then adjust your time then press left but on until beeps twice then hold right button until beeps twice then it should power on.
ohbill
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Intex 8110 Chlorine Generator Fix

Postby ohbill » Thu 07 Aug, 2014 16:27

Thanks to Chadholt20 for his solution to the Code 91 problem. I did as he did and it is now working. Only small differences, I used a Forstner bit on a drill press to open it up. I did use a dremel to eat away the epoxy at the terminal. Then when it was all clean and reconnected, used 5 minute epoxy to seal the connection and the rest of the old epoxy, and then siliconed the opening. Reconnected the next day and it works fine. chlorine levels are back up to where they should be. There is plenty of salt (4200 ppm) since I added 30 lbs twice when the unit first displayed 91.

Thanks again Chadholt20 :D
osiris2099

Intex 8110 Chlorine Generator Fix

Postby osiris2099 » Mon 11 Aug, 2014 21:58

low salt
i had the same problem, but i switched the wire leading from the saltwater pump to the titanium plates. just unscrew it and pull the connecter off to expose the metal leads and reverse it. works like new..

also low pump flow. just revers the metal lead to the connection that has the white flap at the bottom in the water
aepowell3

Intex 8110 Chlorine Generator Fix

Postby aepowell3 » Wed 10 Sep, 2014 00:09

What is the correct procedure for getting a replacement unit. I bought mine in July and it worked fine untill I added the intex sand filter. Now it shows that its working with no code but I have boosted and boosted and it isnt adding any clorine. My salt level is 2700. Do you have to send your old unit back or just how does it work?
Thanks
Aepowell
stumped

Re: Intex 8110 Chlorine Generator Fix

Postby stumped » Wed 15 Jun, 2016 12:48

Mr Know It ALL wrote:If you need a sales invoice for warranty e mail the company you bought it from and dont forget upc on out side of box.
As for code 91 mine was a factory defect.only one plate was getting voltage.I have one comming from intek. In the mean time i used a 6mm wrench and turned the plugin pin the one that was not sending voltage one quater turn and i got a ohms reading. Reinstalled titanium electrode and it works like it was never defected.Now when i have to clean the plates ill have a spare to swap out.No downtime.Remember low salt is not always what is seems . Dont over salt your pool. Only the two outside plates should have an ohms reading to there plug in pins.


you're a Guinness, been trying everything i could find and this simple lil thing if tightening up the plug prongs worked perfect. wish i would have found your post first weeks ago... :):):)
Rachelw79

Re: Intex titanium electrode

Postby Rachelw79 » Fri 29 Jul, 2016 11:20

I know this is off topic from what y'all were discussing but I have been going in circles trying to find a replacement titatanium electrode for my salt water system and conveniently intex is the only one that sells them well them and Walmart and they r both out of stock. Does anyone know of somewhere else I might be able to purchase this part. Please help.
jc083

Re: Intex 8110 Chlorine Generator Fix

Postby jc083 » Sun 31 Jul, 2016 14:06

tried to connector swap and made smoke not a good sign. looks like I'm buying a new unit
brado

Re: 8110 fix

Postby brado » Tue 30 Aug, 2016 16:53

edjones72 wrote:To Kenwwod: imagine the screw contacts were numbered 1-4 starting at the bottom, You would move wire 4 to 3 and move wire 1 to 2. You will end up with two wires attached to contact 2 and 3. This bypasses the circuit board and allows the DC current to flow straight to the cell ALL THE TIME WHEN THE UNIT IS PLUGGED IN SO don't leave it on too long without waterflow. The unit will still come on and the LED will still lite up but there is no reason to turn the switch on. From my testing, the transformer is energized all the time when the unit is plugged in just out of the box so this is not a big change. You can check the cell to see it working by plugging it in and waiting 30-60 seconds then turn the filter pump on. You should see a lot of bubbles coming out of the return line into the pool briefly. You can also take the left side hose off while holding the 8110 up on end. With pool water over the cell, plug the unit in. You should see the bubbling and white chlorine being produced at the end of the cell and smell the chlorine. The other slight concern I had was the unit cannot auto clean the cell when wired this way. I found the plug on the cell can fit on both ways so I reverse it occasionally. I have not tried to figure out if one polarity produces more chlorine in comparison to the other. To understand the concept behind the 8110, you can make chlorine with a 9V battery, 2 old spoons, 2 pieces of wire, a drinking glass, and some salt water. It's pretty cool! Let me know if you have any more questions. Make sure it's unplugged before rewiring. It's DC but it can still hurt you.


This didn't look correct to me when looking at the wiring. Connecting 1 to 2 would be shorting out the unit, on my unit 1 and 2 as described comes from the same source (power) if you follow the wires thus connecting positive to negative. What you need to look at is where the wires go, 2 wires are power, the other 2 wires go to the cell. What I did is connect the 2 wires that come from the power source directly to the cell. On my unit if numbering the screw contacts from 1 to 4 starting at the bottom I removed the wire connected at #1 (Red wire to power source) and moved it to #4 (Black wire to Cell) and removed the wire connected at #2 (Black to power source) and moved it to #3 (White wire to Cell). This has been working great for me so far, will have to rotate cell manually to reverse polarity and be on top of cleaning because there is no more automation of stopping the unit if corroded. The switch on the unit now as no effect on making chlorine, if you have the unit plugged into power it's going to be making chlorine so make sure you put a manual timer on it to coincide with water running through it from your pump. Even though the cell is getting power without the switch on I have the switch turned on for the length of time running because it appears the fan still runs to cool unit if the switch is turned on even though the unit has the code 91 (low salt) warning.

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