Intex 8110 Chlorine Generator Fix

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aepowell3

Intex 8110 Chlorine Generator Fix

Postby aepowell3 » Wed 10 Sep, 2014 00:09

What is the correct procedure for getting a replacement unit. I bought mine in July and it worked fine untill I added the intex sand filter. Now it shows that its working with no code but I have boosted and boosted and it isnt adding any clorine. My salt level is 2700. Do you have to send your old unit back or just how does it work?
Thanks
Aepowell


stumped

Re: Intex 8110 Chlorine Generator Fix

Postby stumped » Wed 15 Jun, 2016 12:48

Mr Know It ALL wrote:If you need a sales invoice for warranty e mail the company you bought it from and dont forget upc on out side of box.
As for code 91 mine was a factory defect.only one plate was getting voltage.I have one comming from intek. In the mean time i used a 6mm wrench and turned the plugin pin the one that was not sending voltage one quater turn and i got a ohms reading. Reinstalled titanium electrode and it works like it was never defected.Now when i have to clean the plates ill have a spare to swap out.No downtime.Remember low salt is not always what is seems . Dont over salt your pool. Only the two outside plates should have an ohms reading to there plug in pins.


you're a Guinness, been trying everything i could find and this simple lil thing if tightening up the plug prongs worked perfect. wish i would have found your post first weeks ago... :):):)
Rachelw79

Re: Intex titanium electrode

Postby Rachelw79 » Fri 29 Jul, 2016 11:20

I know this is off topic from what y'all were discussing but I have been going in circles trying to find a replacement titatanium electrode for my salt water system and conveniently intex is the only one that sells them well them and Walmart and they r both out of stock. Does anyone know of somewhere else I might be able to purchase this part. Please help.
jc083

Re: Intex 8110 Chlorine Generator Fix

Postby jc083 » Sun 31 Jul, 2016 14:06

tried to connector swap and made smoke not a good sign. looks like I'm buying a new unit
brado

Re: 8110 fix

Postby brado » Tue 30 Aug, 2016 16:53

edjones72 wrote:To Kenwwod: imagine the screw contacts were numbered 1-4 starting at the bottom, You would move wire 4 to 3 and move wire 1 to 2. You will end up with two wires attached to contact 2 and 3. This bypasses the circuit board and allows the DC current to flow straight to the cell ALL THE TIME WHEN THE UNIT IS PLUGGED IN SO don't leave it on too long without waterflow. The unit will still come on and the LED will still lite up but there is no reason to turn the switch on. From my testing, the transformer is energized all the time when the unit is plugged in just out of the box so this is not a big change. You can check the cell to see it working by plugging it in and waiting 30-60 seconds then turn the filter pump on. You should see a lot of bubbles coming out of the return line into the pool briefly. You can also take the left side hose off while holding the 8110 up on end. With pool water over the cell, plug the unit in. You should see the bubbling and white chlorine being produced at the end of the cell and smell the chlorine. The other slight concern I had was the unit cannot auto clean the cell when wired this way. I found the plug on the cell can fit on both ways so I reverse it occasionally. I have not tried to figure out if one polarity produces more chlorine in comparison to the other. To understand the concept behind the 8110, you can make chlorine with a 9V battery, 2 old spoons, 2 pieces of wire, a drinking glass, and some salt water. It's pretty cool! Let me know if you have any more questions. Make sure it's unplugged before rewiring. It's DC but it can still hurt you.


This didn't look correct to me when looking at the wiring. Connecting 1 to 2 would be shorting out the unit, on my unit 1 and 2 as described comes from the same source (power) if you follow the wires thus connecting positive to negative. What you need to look at is where the wires go, 2 wires are power, the other 2 wires go to the cell. What I did is connect the 2 wires that come from the power source directly to the cell. On my unit if numbering the screw contacts from 1 to 4 starting at the bottom I removed the wire connected at #1 (Red wire to power source) and moved it to #4 (Black wire to Cell) and removed the wire connected at #2 (Black to power source) and moved it to #3 (White wire to Cell). This has been working great for me so far, will have to rotate cell manually to reverse polarity and be on top of cleaning because there is no more automation of stopping the unit if corroded. The switch on the unit now as no effect on making chlorine, if you have the unit plugged into power it's going to be making chlorine so make sure you put a manual timer on it to coincide with water running through it from your pump. Even though the cell is getting power without the switch on I have the switch turned on for the length of time running because it appears the fan still runs to cool unit if the switch is turned on even though the unit has the code 91 (low salt) warning.

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