Intex 8110 Chlorine Generator Fix

SWGs, salt water chlorine generators, chlorinators,
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racermpn

Question

Postby racermpn » Tue 05 Aug, 2008 17:42

I am not sure if it is reverse polarity or not. It seems as though the 10 amp charger cant keep up with the pump. When the unit was working you could see the chlorine coming out. Now with just the charger hooked up all you can see is tiny little bubbles. Show I use a 15 amp charger. Does anyone know how many amps the original intex unit puts out to make the chlorine???


Strannik-au
Swimming Pool Wizard
Swimming Pool Wizard
Posts: 77
Joined: Fri 04 Apr, 2008 13:17
Location: Brisbane, Australia

Postby Strannik-au » Wed 06 Aug, 2008 08:43

first check if you have the correct polarity

blind guess would be that it needs 20-25 amps
you can estimate if you know what's the unit's power rating is, although manual should have how many amps/volts the output is
pooltroubled

Intex 8110

Postby pooltroubled » Thu 07 Aug, 2008 09:00

Well, it seems that there is definitely a problem with this unit design. My unit has only about 30 hrs on it but is not under warranty any longer as I bought at the end of summer 2006. I set up the pool last weekend and got the code 91 right away. This is only the second time this unit has been in service. I shut the unit off and on few times to see if that would clear it, it didn't. I did all the other cleaning things to. I left the unit off for a day but it was still plugged in and the power unit was pretty warm to the touch the next day but I went and turned it on anyway. The LED comes on with code 88 and when I try to enter the system I get rapid beeps from pressing the up arrow key ( the down arrow key beeps only once after 5 seconds as discussed in the manual ) and nothing else happens so I can't enter in any operational hours or anything. I unplugged it and let it sit for a few hours and tried again but no change.

Does anyone have any ideas about this problem, could it be the power unit?
pooltroubled

Intex 8110

Postby pooltroubled » Thu 07 Aug, 2008 09:23

I discussed this issue with Intex and since it is out of warranty they won't replace the unit but they also said that their trouble shooting tech thought it was an internal malfunction and since they don't sell internal replacement parts the unit needed to be trashed.

Looks like I need to follow some of the "fixes" outlined in this thread.

Would like to follow up on the battery charger thing so if anyone has any more info on that it would be appreciated.
racermpn

intex

Postby racermpn » Thu 07 Aug, 2008 10:16

Here are the specs for the intex machine

Power 110-120 volt AC
Amperage 2.5A
Wattage 250W

Is a 10 or 20 amp charger going to be too much. I am not an electrician so I just don't know.
Strannik-au
Swimming Pool Wizard
Swimming Pool Wizard
Posts: 77
Joined: Fri 04 Apr, 2008 13:17
Location: Brisbane, Australia

Postby Strannik-au » Thu 07 Aug, 2008 16:49

you should have roughly 20-25 amps
pooltroubled

Intex 8110

Postby pooltroubled » Fri 08 Aug, 2008 09:59

Thx for the responses guys.

Now, to show my ignorance of electrical stuff. From a previous post the poster measured the volts at the cell from the Intex transformer to be 18V. I presume that this means that the transformer is converting the 120VAC down to 18VDC which then is used by the cell to generate chlorine. If the Intex power unit is using 2.5 amps to generate 18VDC why does it take a 25 amp charger to provide 12VDC?

Just an update to my problems. I gave the 8110 a try again last night an to my surprise it actually allowed me to program a run mode. So I programed a 4 hr period and after about 2 min it code 90'd low flow, which was a crock, so now I know that this thing is definitly screwed up and I have no problem with getting in there and trying these fixes to limp through the next 4 to 6 weeks of pool time.

Cheers
Strannik-au
Swimming Pool Wizard
Swimming Pool Wizard
Posts: 77
Joined: Fri 04 Apr, 2008 13:17
Location: Brisbane, Australia

Postby Strannik-au » Fri 08 Aug, 2008 19:36

If the cell voltage is 18V - you will need around 15 A. I was assuming voltage of 12V.
SeanA

Intex fixes

Postby SeanA » Tue 19 Aug, 2008 22:09

The transformer takes 120 VAC to 18 VAC, which will end up ~13.5Vdc after it is rectified. This is a self cleaning unit, it reverses the polarity to the cell on a regular cycle. You could bypass the internal controls if you get a heavy duty rectifier, connect the transformer output to it, then to the cell. If you put a DC ammeter in line you have a quasi salt level meter! I don't think that the flow meter is rated for 120 V, 2.5 amps, but if it is, it could be wired into the transformer input - no water flow would mean no power flow. Plug it into a timer and you're all set for automatic operation, just remember to reverse the cell polarity to clean it every so often.
DoughbBoy

Intex 8110

Postby DoughbBoy » Thu 21 Aug, 2008 18:28

Uh, did you put a meter on it? I got 16.8VAC out of the Transformer, which rectified to 22.8 VDC coming off of the big honkin' Capacitor. The transformer also sends 9.4VAC to the control board for 12VDC timer and stuff. The rectifier fan should be powered whenever there is load on it, or a great big ol' heat sink should be installed.

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