What is my ideal TA?
What is my ideal TA?
My new house has a 38,000 gallon salt water pool. This is my first pool and I can't quite lower my Ph from 8.6 no matter how much acid I use. My alkalinity was at 80ppm so I figured I needed to bump that up to 90ppm, but I still can't get my Ph to come down. What I my ideal TA, and/or is there anything else I could do?
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- Pool Industry Leader
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- Joined: Thu 21 Jun, 2007 21:27
- Location: San Rafael, California
What is my ideal TA?
See Water Balance for SWGs. Your TA should be lower, not more than 70 ppm. Your CYA should be up at 80 ppm if your pool is in full sun and your FC target at 4 ppm. You might also consider using 50 ppm Borates.
To lower your pH from 8.6 (how did you measure that?) down to 7.7 with your TA of 80 ppm would take 77 fluid ounces (9 cups, 5 ounces) of full-strength Muriatic Acid (31.45% Hydrochloric Acid). Your TA will get lowered by about 8 ppm as a result and that's fine.
To lower your pH from 8.6 (how did you measure that?) down to 7.7 with your TA of 80 ppm would take 77 fluid ounces (9 cups, 5 ounces) of full-strength Muriatic Acid (31.45% Hydrochloric Acid). Your TA will get lowered by about 8 ppm as a result and that's fine.
What is my ideal TA?
Thanks for the reply and the link...
I measured my pH using a Pentair Pool & Spa test kit...the pool guy who the previous owner used said this kit was recommended.
A TA of 70ppm? I was at 80 and thought that was too high...guess this kit of mine isn't as great as I thought.
Should I make these adjustments now even though I will be closing in about four weeks?
I measured my pH using a Pentair Pool & Spa test kit...the pool guy who the previous owner used said this kit was recommended.
A TA of 70ppm? I was at 80 and thought that was too high...guess this kit of mine isn't as great as I thought.
Should I make these adjustments now even though I will be closing in about four weeks?
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- Pool Industry Leader
- Posts: 2381
- Joined: Thu 21 Jun, 2007 21:27
- Location: San Rafael, California
What is my ideal TA?
That's up to you. You should get yourself a better test kit, at least for the start of next season. Get either the Taylor K-2006 or the TFTestkits TF-100, with the latter having more of the reagents you use the most so is more economical.
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- Pool Industry Leader
- Posts: 2381
- Joined: Thu 21 Jun, 2007 21:27
- Location: San Rafael, California
What is my ideal TA?
The optimum TA depends on the amount of aeration in the pool as well as if a saltwater chlorine generator is used. With an SWG or when using a hypochlorite source of chlorine, a lower TA is better since it reduces the amount of carbon dioxide outgassing that causes the pH to rise. TA is a measure of the over-carbonation of the water and is a SOURCE of rising pH in its own right.
If one wants more pH buffering without causing the pH to rise from carbon dioxide outgassing, then after lowering the TA one can use 50 ppm Borates. To keep the saturation index near zero for plaster surfaces, one can target a somewhat higher pH (say, 7.7) and a higher Calcium Hardness (CH).
If one wants more pH buffering without causing the pH to rise from carbon dioxide outgassing, then after lowering the TA one can use 50 ppm Borates. To keep the saturation index near zero for plaster surfaces, one can target a somewhat higher pH (say, 7.7) and a higher Calcium Hardness (CH).
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