Jandy Lite2 error code "FL 4"

[CGPoolman]

Hello all!

I was looking at a Jandy Lite 2 model # LJ250PS. Homeowner states that it does not light. I opened the front cover to see that the gas knob was turned off. I turned on the gas and went thru the normal startup and it fired up like a champ, cranking out some serious heat. I let it run for about 5 mins to show the homeowner it was working. Homeowner asks me to walk them thru the startup. I turn off everything and start at the beginning. Only this time the $%#@! heater won't light!! I tried to re-light the heater about a dozen times and It keeps giving me an "FL 4" error. I looked up the code and it tells me this is an ignitor failure.

I don't work on many gas heaters, so my question is why would it have lit so easily the first time and then not light after that? Does the ignitor fail once it gets hot? I would think if it were a bad ignitor it would not fire at all?

Any insight is appreciated.

Thanks,
CG

[markwimbush]

we need more information to solve this.

when you try and start the heater, do you see the ignitor glow?
Does the flame light, and then go out 4 seconds later, or is there no flame at all?

[CGPoolman]

Thanks Mike,

I had the cover closed when trying to light it, so I could not observe if the ignitor was glowing. I went back there yesterday and replaced the ignitor. On the first attempt to light I got a really weak "whoosh" but the heater did not fire. On the second attempt I got the FL4 error again. I called Jandy/Zodiac tech support and they walked me thru testing the power board. I was only getting erratic power readings to the ignitor, anywhere from 36-75V. Tech support said my next step is to replace the High Voltage assembly, so I have one ordered and will give this another crack when the part arrives. If that doesn't work I don't know what else to do.

[wimbushmechanical]

The information so far sends me in a couple of directions. erratic voltage can mean a bad power board or a bad trigger signal turning it on and off. It could be a loose or partly shorted connection. It could be a failing component. a weak wooosh of gas can mean a problem with gas supply, a problem with the gas valve, a momentary voltage to the gas valve that is not sustained. etc. At this point I dont think we have a full picture of what is really wrong. Before spending money on new circuit boards it would be wise to perform some more tests.
Note; that all of these tests should only be performed by a licensed, skilled experienced insured gas technician with electrical skills and qualifications. If you are not qualified, please hire someone who is. It is a lot cheaper than a casket.

I think we need to start at the beginning.
-What voltage is powering this heater.
-If it is 120v is the polarity correct on the L1 and the neutral.
-Are you getting the correct voltages at all of the test points on the board.
-Is there a good ground connection all the way back to the buuilding ground.
-Is there a voltage between the ground and the neutral.
-are the electrical connections good, tight and not corroded.
-Do not just check the connections on the high voltage side, check the 24v circuitry as well.
-Check all of the safety sensors and make certain that they are good.
-disconnect the safety circuit at the power board and check the resistance. This resistance should be tiny.
-Check the safety circuit resistance to ground, it should be infinity...any reading to ground means that a safety device is grounded and needs to be repaired/replaced.
-Remove the high temperature limits and check them for corrosion and shorts.
-What is the static gas pressure when the heater is not fired.
-was the voltage reading truly erratic, or did it build up to the 75v slowly?
-What is the resistance measured between the two wires from your ignitor? target is between 60-80 ohms. a high resistance ignitor will not heat up effectively. a low resistance ignitor will short the board out and blow fuses.
-What is the resistance between each ignitor wire and ground? if this is not infinity then strange feedbacks can occur, causing uncertain operation, or can blow the power board. perform this test with ignitor installed in heater.

[CGPoolman]

Thanks Wimbush!

That is great information - I'm going to print that out and keep it. The High voltage assembly has not arrived yet, so I haven't been back out to mess with the heater yet. Like I said in my original post, I don't work with very many heaters so I'm not too familiar with the troubleshooting and testing, especially with the electronics. I'm kind of learning as I go with this one. I have a very basic multimeter, but I'm pretty sure it can test for ohms so I'll definitely give that a try. I don't recall point for point what I tested while I was on the phone with tech support, but everything he had me test was OK until I got to the two points for the ignitor.

I remember reading that the heater runs through a self test when it first powers up. If there is a fault in any of the sensors, the heater will not even call for heat - it would throw an error code before it even attempts to fire so I think I'm good there but will double check it.

I was actually thinking a faulty gas valve or bad pressure as well - but I don't have the tools or know how to check that. It still puzzles me that this heater fired up like a champ the very first time, and hasn't lit up since.

I'm hoping the voltage assembly arrives tomorrow so I can make it back to this heater at some point over the weekend. I'll go over the things you mentioned in your post, and if all checks out I may just replace the board any way and see what happens. Worst case it that it still doesn't light! I feel like I've done everything within my limits, and followed the manufacturer's instructions. If I can't get it to light next time I'm out there I'm going to tap out and have the company send another tech out to look at it.

Thanks again for your input,
CG

[wimbushmechanical]

if you have further trouble send me a note through my website wimbushmechanical.com and I can help you.

[CGPoolman]

Wimbush,

Thanks again for your input! I finally got the new high voltage assembly and went back to the house to finish the heater. Before swapping the board I ran through your list and everything checked out OK except the power going out to the ignitor. The power readings were very erratic. Sometimes I would get 40V, sometimes 100V - it was different every time. This could explain why it lit the very first time I turned the heater on - it must have provided just enough power to get the gas lit.

I swapped out the high voltage assembly and the heater is running like a champ again. I powered it on and off several times to make sure it would light and every time it lit successfully. I didn't see any obvious defect or damage on the circuit board, but it works now and the homeowner is happy and that's really the most important thing.

Thanks again for your help,

-CG