Goldline "Aqua-Rite" salt chlorinator problems

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las vagas

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Postby las vagas » Tue 17 Aug, 2010 18:09

Ken Alexander wrote:
eng wrote:I had problems with my cell too. It seems like every 2 years they go bad. I got tired of paying money to get it replaced. I am an engineer, so I started studying how they work. It seems that the root of the problem is the temperature sensor at the cell. Check the temperature by pressing the button next to the display. Use a thermometer in the pool to check the water temperature. Is it off by more that 5 degrees? If it is, then you salinity will be wrong and it will call for more salt. The cell will shut down automatically. To overcome this situation I open my cell and cut the two wires on the side of the cell (red and blue). These are the temperature sensor wires. I installed an 8.5 K ohms resistor between the two wires. This will give you a forever temperature of 86 degrees. After that, the cell started working properly. Since I have a fixed temperature now I used salinity strips to keep track of the salt. This worked for me. If you want to do it, go ahead at your own risk. Other that this, there is no other way around it. I heard from other people having the same problem.


will try this! I'm on my second cell and it doent like the las vegas heat... They also don't seem to like big pools.


Willtur

Goldline "Aqua-Rite" salt chlorinator problems

Postby Willtur » Mon 23 Aug, 2010 09:26

I have the same issue with my salt sensor, I dont know where the problem lies as the cell is clean as a whistle but the salt reading is way off shows 1800 when it is a couple hundred above the desired amount per the manual. I was looking into a way to bypass the salt sensor to see which one I needed to replace but havent found any steps on that, just flow and temperature. Is there anyway to troubleshoot which is really the problem? I can buy a brand new cell for a deal but if it ends up being the control unit im in for a loss. Thanks!

Is the temp and the salt sensor the same thing?
Willtur

Goldline "Aqua-Rite" salt chlorinator problems

Postby Willtur » Mon 23 Aug, 2010 09:28

btw I have the goldline with a t-15 if that matters.
floridapooltech
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Goldline "Aqua-Rite" salt chlorinator problems

Postby floridapooltech » Mon 23 Aug, 2010 10:23

Willtur wrote:btw I have the goldline with a t-15 if that matters.



When was the last time this cell was replaced and how many hours per day does the unit run? Also, what is your pool/spa combined volume?
Florida Pool Tech is a Florida certified service company headquartered in Tampa, Florida employing the best technicians and installers in the industry! Vist us at http://www.floridapooltech.com

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Willtur

Goldline "Aqua-Rite" salt chlorinator problems

Postby Willtur » Wed 25 Aug, 2010 10:09

I have had it for 3 years and I would say in the 20k range as far as size, When I take the samples in for testing I end up with no chlorine but over on salt( enough to balance out with a summer of splashing). The setup does the same thing each time I turn it on, it generates for a few seconds but reads the pool salt at 1600 and shuts off, and it is nowhere near that low. The pool places I have went to show I am over on salt each time. I would like to bypass the salt sensor as some people do the temperature or flow switch but need to know if there is even one on the cell to figure out which needs service or replaced. I would hate to buy a cell then it be the control box and even then I would like to bypass it to get by till I can afford it. Thanks!

I read about the bypass with the ohm resistors, Are the salt and temp sensor one in the same?
floridapooltech
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Goldline "Aqua-Rite" salt chlorinator problems

Postby floridapooltech » Wed 25 Aug, 2010 10:53

Willtur wrote:I have had it for 3 years and I would say in the 20k range as far as size, When I take the samples in for testing I end up with no chlorine but over on salt( enough to balance out with a summer of splashing). The setup does the same thing each time I turn it on, it generates for a few seconds but reads the pool salt at 1600 and shuts off, and it is nowhere near that low. The pool places I have went to show I am over on salt each time. I would like to bypass the salt sensor as some people do the temperature or flow switch but need to know if there is even one on the cell to figure out which needs service or replaced. I would hate to buy a cell then it be the control box and even then I would like to bypass it to get by till I can afford it. Thanks!

I read about the bypass with the ohm resistors, Are the salt and temp sensor one in the same?



You said before you had the T-CELL15...that is good for 40,000 gallons not 20k.

Goldline Aqua Rite salt systems come with a 3yr. warranty. Have you tried contacting Hayward for a solution?
Florida Pool Tech is a Florida certified service company headquartered in Tampa, Florida employing the best technicians and installers in the industry! Vist us at http://www.floridapooltech.com

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Willtur

Goldline "Aqua-Rite" salt chlorinator problems

Postby Willtur » Mon 30 Aug, 2010 08:48

It may be for a larger pool but the one I have is from 3-6 feet and not very long in length (24ft?), I never owned a pool before buying this home so in that aspect i am ignorant. I know the cell is a t-15 and that the chlorinator is set to t-15, I wonder if knocking it down to thinking its a t-5 would help. The warranty has expired on it so when I call the number on the salt cell I wont get any support. What I really just want to know is where the salt sensor is and how if anyway is there a way to bypass it like with ohm resistors?
floridapooltech
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Goldline "Aqua-Rite" salt chlorinator problems

Postby floridapooltech » Mon 30 Aug, 2010 09:39

Willtur wrote:It may be for a larger pool but the one I have is from 3-6 feet and not very long in length (24ft?), I never owned a pool before buying this home so in that aspect i am ignorant. I know the cell is a t-15 and that the chlorinator is set to t-15, I wonder if knocking it down to thinking its a t-5 would help. The warranty has expired on it so when I call the number on the salt cell I wont get any support. What I really just want to know is where the salt sensor is and how if anyway is there a way to bypass it like with ohm resistors?


The goldline salt systems come in the T-CELL 3 (15,000 gallons), T-CELL 9 (25,000 gallons) and T-CELL 15 (40,000 gallons). As far as I know, there is no way to bypass the salt sensor as that's what tells the system to start producing chlorine. We do sell replacement cells for your unit. If you would like any help, feel free to contact our support department!
Florida Pool Tech is a Florida certified service company headquartered in Tampa, Florida employing the best technicians and installers in the industry! Vist us at http://www.floridapooltech.com

Specializing in pool service and pool repair
James Watson

Goldline "Aqua-Rite" salt chlorinator problems

Postby James Watson » Mon 30 Aug, 2010 10:30

Diagnostic Displays
Sequential pushes of the small "diagnostic" button next to the LCD display will cause the Aqua Rite to display the following information:
1. Pool temperature (xx degrees Fahrenheit or Celsius)
2. Cell voltage (typically 22.0 to 25.0 volts when chlorine is being generated, otherwise 30-35V)
3. Cell current (typically 4.50 to 7.80 amps when chlorine is being generated, otherwise 0 amps)
4. Desired Output % ("0P" -- "100P" depending on knob position or input from remote pool automation controller)
5. Instant salinity ( -xxxx ppm or -x.xx grams/Liter)
6. Product name sent to the pool automation control display ("AL-0" which signifies "Aqua Rite")
7. Software revision level (r1.xx)
On the 8th push of the button, the display will revert back to the default salt display.
Also, if the button is not pushed for 30 seconds, the display will revert back to the standard salt display.
http://www.goldlinecontrols.com/Support ... 09K_SS.pdf


Do this and report back the readings. If your Instant Salinity is right, then you can recalibrate the unit.

Aqua Rite™ Chlorine Generator Recalibration Instructions
When attempting to recalibrate the average salt reading (default reading { 2700-3400ppm}) the pump needs to be running. If the pump is not running, the system will show “NO FLOW”, if flashing this is just a warm up process and the unit is waiting for the water to begin moving through the cell to carry the chlorine out to the pool. Once flow is established, the unit should begin to display the “POWER” & “GENERATING” lights solid green. Once this happens the cell has just engaged and is trying to measure the salt level. Press the diagnostic button once.
The unit then gives the following:
Default = what the unit thinks the salt level is due to an average of all previously recorded “instant salt readings” from all of the different polarity changes since the system was installed, or since the last time the unit was recalibrated.
First the unit reads the temp, then the voltage in the cell, then the amperage, then it will display the desired output percentage (where you have the dial set to), then next reading is the “instant salt reading”, or what the cell thinks the salt level is right at that moment. Then it will show “AL-X”, this just tells the technician what type of system they are working on (Aqua Rite™, Naturesoft, ect…), and then finally the software revision (r1.XX), this just tells the technician what to look for symptom wise, for instance a certain combination of lights. “Low/ check salt” and “inspect cell” are the most common lights and they are usually on together as the cell is saying it’s not sure if the problem is in fact the salt or if it perhaps has a calcium build up.
So you will see:
Default
- temp
- voltage
- amperage
- desired output
- instant salt reading (comes up with a dash before the # to differentiate with default
- product code
- software revision
- back to default
Now moving the slide switch from “AUTO” to “SUPER CHLORINATE” and then back to “AUTO” on our control box is basically like pressing ‘enter’ on a computer. If the unit is reading 2700-3400PPM it is in the standard mode, if it reads 2.70-3.40, it is in the metric mode. If you need to change the reading, press the diagnostic button once to display the temperature. Then slide the switch up to “SUPER CHLORINATE” for a few seconds, as long as the “SUPER CHLORINATE” light illuminates, you can switch back, this should be instantaneous. This procedure will toggle between the two different settings.
Also, using the same procedure, “AUTO” to “SUPER CHLORINATE” then back to “AUTO” while showing the 5th reading (if it reads between -2700 up to -3400), the “Instant Salt Reading”, this will force the system to forget all of the previous readings and it will recalibrate its self to the new readings and should eliminate the error lights. If it does not, contact technical service at 1-888-921-7665(Monday-Friday 8am-8pmEST) and who ever answers the line will be able to assist you. http://www.goldlinecontrols.com/Support ... arite.aspx
Ron B

salt

Postby Ron B » Tue 31 Aug, 2010 13:17

excel wrote:The sensor can also be replaced without having to replace the entire cell. It is a $20 part and is a very easy (less than 1/2 hr) fix.



[size=150]
Where is this sensor locted? My chorinator ia about 3 years old. I Never had a problem, until this
year. Keep getting cell error, next day after shutting system down.[/size]

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