Goldline "Aqua-Rite" salt chlorinator problems

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floridapooltech
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Goldline "Aqua-Rite" salt chlorinator problems

Postby floridapooltech » Wed 25 Aug, 2010 10:53

Willtur wrote:I have had it for 3 years and I would say in the 20k range as far as size, When I take the samples in for testing I end up with no chlorine but over on salt( enough to balance out with a summer of splashing). The setup does the same thing each time I turn it on, it generates for a few seconds but reads the pool salt at 1600 and shuts off, and it is nowhere near that low. The pool places I have went to show I am over on salt each time. I would like to bypass the salt sensor as some people do the temperature or flow switch but need to know if there is even one on the cell to figure out which needs service or replaced. I would hate to buy a cell then it be the control box and even then I would like to bypass it to get by till I can afford it. Thanks!

I read about the bypass with the ohm resistors, Are the salt and temp sensor one in the same?



You said before you had the T-CELL15...that is good for 40,000 gallons not 20k.

Goldline Aqua Rite salt systems come with a 3yr. warranty. Have you tried contacting Hayward for a solution?


Willtur

Goldline "Aqua-Rite" salt chlorinator problems

Postby Willtur » Mon 30 Aug, 2010 08:48

It may be for a larger pool but the one I have is from 3-6 feet and not very long in length (24ft?), I never owned a pool before buying this home so in that aspect i am ignorant. I know the cell is a t-15 and that the chlorinator is set to t-15, I wonder if knocking it down to thinking its a t-5 would help. The warranty has expired on it so when I call the number on the salt cell I wont get any support. What I really just want to know is where the salt sensor is and how if anyway is there a way to bypass it like with ohm resistors?
floridapooltech
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Goldline "Aqua-Rite" salt chlorinator problems

Postby floridapooltech » Mon 30 Aug, 2010 09:39

Willtur wrote:It may be for a larger pool but the one I have is from 3-6 feet and not very long in length (24ft?), I never owned a pool before buying this home so in that aspect i am ignorant. I know the cell is a t-15 and that the chlorinator is set to t-15, I wonder if knocking it down to thinking its a t-5 would help. The warranty has expired on it so when I call the number on the salt cell I wont get any support. What I really just want to know is where the salt sensor is and how if anyway is there a way to bypass it like with ohm resistors?


The goldline salt systems come in the T-CELL 3 (15,000 gallons), T-CELL 9 (25,000 gallons) and T-CELL 15 (40,000 gallons). As far as I know, there is no way to bypass the salt sensor as that's what tells the system to start producing chlorine. We do sell replacement cells for your unit. If you would like any help, feel free to contact our support department!
James Watson

Goldline "Aqua-Rite" salt chlorinator problems

Postby James Watson » Mon 30 Aug, 2010 10:30

Diagnostic Displays
Sequential pushes of the small "diagnostic" button next to the LCD display will cause the Aqua Rite to display the following information:
1. Pool temperature (xx degrees Fahrenheit or Celsius)
2. Cell voltage (typically 22.0 to 25.0 volts when chlorine is being generated, otherwise 30-35V)
3. Cell current (typically 4.50 to 7.80 amps when chlorine is being generated, otherwise 0 amps)
4. Desired Output % ("0P" -- "100P" depending on knob position or input from remote pool automation controller)
5. Instant salinity ( -xxxx ppm or -x.xx grams/Liter)
6. Product name sent to the pool automation control display ("AL-0" which signifies "Aqua Rite")
7. Software revision level (r1.xx)
On the 8th push of the button, the display will revert back to the default salt display.
Also, if the button is not pushed for 30 seconds, the display will revert back to the standard salt display.
http://www.goldlinecontrols.com/Support ... 09K_SS.pdf


Do this and report back the readings. If your Instant Salinity is right, then you can recalibrate the unit.

Aqua Rite™ Chlorine Generator Recalibration Instructions
When attempting to recalibrate the average salt reading (default reading { 2700-3400ppm}) the pump needs to be running. If the pump is not running, the system will show “NO FLOW”, if flashing this is just a warm up process and the unit is waiting for the water to begin moving through the cell to carry the chlorine out to the pool. Once flow is established, the unit should begin to display the “POWER” & “GENERATING” lights solid green. Once this happens the cell has just engaged and is trying to measure the salt level. Press the diagnostic button once.
The unit then gives the following:
Default = what the unit thinks the salt level is due to an average of all previously recorded “instant salt readings” from all of the different polarity changes since the system was installed, or since the last time the unit was recalibrated.
First the unit reads the temp, then the voltage in the cell, then the amperage, then it will display the desired output percentage (where you have the dial set to), then next reading is the “instant salt reading”, or what the cell thinks the salt level is right at that moment. Then it will show “AL-X”, this just tells the technician what type of system they are working on (Aqua Rite™, Naturesoft, ect…), and then finally the software revision (r1.XX), this just tells the technician what to look for symptom wise, for instance a certain combination of lights. “Low/ check salt” and “inspect cell” are the most common lights and they are usually on together as the cell is saying it’s not sure if the problem is in fact the salt or if it perhaps has a calcium build up.
So you will see:
Default
- temp
- voltage
- amperage
- desired output
- instant salt reading (comes up with a dash before the # to differentiate with default
- product code
- software revision
- back to default
Now moving the slide switch from “AUTO” to “SUPER CHLORINATE” and then back to “AUTO” on our control box is basically like pressing ‘enter’ on a computer. If the unit is reading 2700-3400PPM it is in the standard mode, if it reads 2.70-3.40, it is in the metric mode. If you need to change the reading, press the diagnostic button once to display the temperature. Then slide the switch up to “SUPER CHLORINATE” for a few seconds, as long as the “SUPER CHLORINATE” light illuminates, you can switch back, this should be instantaneous. This procedure will toggle between the two different settings.
Also, using the same procedure, “AUTO” to “SUPER CHLORINATE” then back to “AUTO” while showing the 5th reading (if it reads between -2700 up to -3400), the “Instant Salt Reading”, this will force the system to forget all of the previous readings and it will recalibrate its self to the new readings and should eliminate the error lights. If it does not, contact technical service at 1-888-921-7665(Monday-Friday 8am-8pmEST) and who ever answers the line will be able to assist you. http://www.goldlinecontrols.com/Support ... arite.aspx
Ron B

salt

Postby Ron B » Tue 31 Aug, 2010 13:17

excel wrote:The sensor can also be replaced without having to replace the entire cell. It is a $20 part and is a very easy (less than 1/2 hr) fix.



[size=150]
Where is this sensor locted? My chorinator ia about 3 years old. I Never had a problem, until this
year. Keep getting cell error, next day after shutting system down.[/size]
Willtur

Goldline "Aqua-Rite" salt chlorinator problems

Postby Willtur » Thu 02 Sep, 2010 09:10

Thanks for the info. I will get the readings but most definitely appreciate the latter info cause I think it may help.
I found out I have a 7500 gallon pool and I think that the previous owner went big and it may think its a 20k and up pool so the calibration may need reset. Thanks again I will report back soon one way or another.
davidsos

Goldline "Aqua-Rite" salt chlorinator problems

Postby davidsos » Thu 02 Sep, 2010 09:20

I think my daughter card and or mother board are bad but it looks like the pool is still geting chlorine? I have no lights on the pannel but my pool still looks chystal clear??
Poolman59

Goldline

Postby Poolman59 » Tue 21 Sep, 2010 16:20

Eng wrote:I had problems with my cell too. It seems like every 2 years they go bad. I got tired of paying money to get it replaced. I am an engineer, so I started studying how they work. It seems that the root of the problem is the temperature sensor at the cell. Check the temperature by pressing the button next to the display. Use a thermometer in the pool to check the water temperature. Is it off by more that 5 degrees? If it is, then you salinity will be wrong and it will call for more salt. The cell will shut down automatically. To overcome this situation I open my cell and cut the two wires on the side of the cell (red and blue). These are the temperature sensor wires. I installed an 8.5 K ohms resistor between the two wires. This will give you a forever temperature of 86 degrees. After that, the cell started working properly. Since I have a fixed temperature now I used salinity strips to keep track of the salt. This worked for me. If you want to do it, go ahead at your own risk. Other that this, there is no other way around it. I heard from other people having the same problem.
You said that you used an 8.5 k ohm resistor, how many watts and where can you buy them ( radio shack...)?
loveaz
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Goldline "Aqua-Rite" salt chlorinator problems

Postby loveaz » Sun 26 Sep, 2010 17:12

Hi Please anyone with advice or troubleshooting.

My pool today showed No Powerlight and actually No lights at all on the Aqua Rite control panel. I check the breaker and such and seemed fine but I reset it anyway. Then the light that said No Flow came up because I had stopped the filter as well. After the No Flow light stopped (still no power light) Weird thing.. The Generating Green Light came on for like 10 seconds (still no power light or other lights on).

Then all went off.

All during this I checked and there was no readings for Salt but the other readings were there. So the numbers for Salt and Average Salt were Zero. The other numbers seemed all there.

But No lights again on the board at all. None!

I checked the chemistry and even though.. light the guy above.. the pool looks good.. There is no chlorine reading coming up on a tester strip.

The pool was not looking good after I left for a couple weeks and my son was home .. this was about 3 weeks ago. So I cleaned the cell really good and re set everything and it all was working ok. But still as it got cleaner I never got a chlorine reading. Also of course the reading of the amount of salt much lower than the actual amount in the pool but I was able to get it to generate and such .

UNTIL today.. Its all wacky.

Any help appreciated.

I am not even sure what the warranty is and I never used it and the system installed in the middle of 2006

I have had to get one new cell in that time and they replaced it for free.. So thats it.

Always have had trouble with salt readings on the unit compared to the real amount in the pool so I used the strips to keep it in check and always had to work hard to make sure it kept generating because it was always right on the borderline of the 2600 or highest 3200 ..

So anyway

The Lights off issue is my concern and when I trip the breaker it does the above things. I did it twice.

Werid

Please help

DEB
floridapooltech
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Goldline "Aqua-Rite" salt chlorinator problems

Postby floridapooltech » Sun 26 Sep, 2010 17:23

How old is this cell? Also, what software revision are you running on the base?
loveaz
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Goldline "Aqua-Rite" salt chlorinator problems

Postby loveaz » Sun 26 Sep, 2010 17:50

Hi

My system software is
R 1.40

My Cell is about 1 to 2 years old.

The Cell is giving the unit the Temp correctly and the Flow Sensor is working too.

I am not thinking it is the Cell.

The Fuse is fine.

I was reading and found this

"West, you are my hero! Just checked for the "black thing" and sure enough...it is cracked and it looks like burn marks around it! I am ordering replacement part from Digi-Key Corp., the part# is 570-1062-ND, for 2.42 each. I am ordering two! Thank you!!"

I Looked and I do see a bit of black around the connection area and on the board. It is not cracked but when I touched it it seems to make a crackling noise like the connection was brittle?

Do you think that could be it??

I do not have a soldering gun.. but I have no money to have someone fix this??

What do you think?

Thanks for the quick response.
loveaz
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Goldline "Aqua-Rite" salt chlorinator problems

Postby loveaz » Sun 26 Sep, 2010 17:52

PS I have this stuff called Wiring Glue and I have not used it yet as I bought it for a project that turned out not needing it. Anyone know about it. Your supposed to be able to use it and it conducts electricity and can be used instead of soldering.

I may be losing my house in the next six months and I do not want to dump a bunch of money into this and well not only do not want to I cant.. And though I want to keep up on the property because that is how I am..

THanks
loveaz
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Goldline "Aqua-Rite" salt chlorinator problems

Postby loveaz » Sun 03 Oct, 2010 18:18

SO. I soldered on a new limiter and its working!!
Lights on and working but no Chlorine.
I go down and test the cell so that Failed now.

Its one thing after another..

This is my 2nd one and I am now in year 5...

Too bad they do not cover your replacement Cell with a full warranty again.. :cry:
floridapooltech
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Goldline "Aqua-Rite" salt chlorinator problems

Postby floridapooltech » Sun 03 Oct, 2010 18:26

loveaz wrote:SO. I soldered on a new limiter and its working!!
Lights on and working but no Chlorine.
I go down and test the cell so that Failed now.

Its one thing after another..

This is my 2nd one and I am now in year 5...

Too bad they do not cover your replacement Cell with a full warranty again.. :cry:



Did you happen to purchase the salt cell with a 1 year, or a 3 year replacement warranty? Some pool stores try to sell the cell with a 1 year warranty as it doesn't cost them as much, and they still try to turn around and sell it for a similar price as the 3 year warranty!
loveaz
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Goldline "Aqua-Rite" salt chlorinator problems

Postby loveaz » Sun 03 Oct, 2010 18:39

So they said because I got a free replacement before the 3 year mark that that replacement is not considered new but they still go from the original purchase date

So on my 2nd cell I still have to use the purchase date that was now 5 years ago.

Thats how they do it.

I am noticing I have a T-15 cell and I do not have a 40000 gallon pool.. no way..

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