Goldline "Aqua-Rite" salt chlorinator problems

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floridapooltech
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Goldline "Aqua-Rite" salt chlorinator problems

Postby floridapooltech » Fri 22 Oct, 2010 21:38

dorlando wrote:I actually called them twice. One person said bad cell the other said too much salt in pool and need to drain water, which wasn't correct.


I would agree more with the cell response, though I would hate to recommend replacing it and it not be the issue. If your water was tested at 3,100 PPM salt, I would trust that number over the cell any day!


dorlando

Goldline "Aqua-Rite" salt chlorinator problems

Postby dorlando » Sat 23 Oct, 2010 16:08

Just trying to determine if it is the board or cell before I buy anything, trying to save a service call. not sure how much I can trust tech support since two people gave me two different answers. I have heard that issues like this could be the board.

I was looking at your website and noticed your t 15 cell is over $100 less than anywhere else. How come you can sell it for so much less? Is it brand new with the 3 year warranty?
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mas985
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Goldline "Aqua-Rite" salt chlorinator problems

Postby mas985 » Sat 23 Oct, 2010 20:14

Before replacing the cell, I would try to reduce the salt level some to see if you can get it to work properly. The last thing I would trust is a pool store test, they are rarely accurate. The best test I found is with a Taylor salt drop test kit and you might find that it matches your SWG better then the pool store test. At least it does for me.

Goldline cells will shut down when the current draw gets above 8 amps which can happen with high salt levels and certainly 4400 ppm would shut down the unit. This is done to protect the power supply from high current which can damage components. Also, these units will usually not read high salt unless there is really too much salt. I have also found that the SWG will sometimes read high salt if exposed to a hot water transient as from solar or a heater kicking on since the temperature increase makes the conductivity of the water increase which can then result in the current exceeding the 8 amp limit. Also, the cells will sometimes report low salt when the cell is nearing end of life even if there is enough salt.

For now, I would go by the unit readings over any pool store test since that is what really matters to the SWG. The SWG doesn't care what the actual salt level is only what it "thinks" it is. So I would try replacing some of the water before replacing any of the SWG parts. Besides, water is much cheaper. :D

Also, there is no separate salt sensor in the Goldline units. The cell itself is the salt sensor. They use the current delivered to the cell combined with the voltage and the temperature of the water to then calculate the salt level from the water conductivity. This is basically how electronic salt and TDS meters works.
Mark
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dorlando

Goldline "Aqua-Rite" salt chlorinator problems

Postby dorlando » Sun 24 Oct, 2010 06:56

Hello,

Thanks for the reply. I have had it tested at two different stores over 2 weeks and similar results so I think those are good to bo by. Now the display reads 0 salt and then the high salt light comes on so it shuts down. Odd that it would say 0 salt and the high sal light would come on. I did take a little water out a couple of weeks ago plus I had to add about 2 inches this past weekend due to evaporation and same results do I really don't think the salt is 4,400. Has to be bad cell or board but not sure which one. If the cell sensor itself as you say is supposed to send a message back to the board it could be damaged and therefore the board is giving wacky readings. I guess it could also be the board itself.
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mas985
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Goldline "Aqua-Rite" salt chlorinator problems

Postby mas985 » Sun 24 Oct, 2010 12:58

A few questions:

Which Goldline unit do you have? AquaLogic, AquaRite, etc.

DId you recently add salt to then pool?

When you say the readout is 0 ppm then 4400 ppm, are you talking about the average salt level or instantaneous? Instantaneous will read 0 ppm when the cell is off during the cycle.

Can you do a cell reset, proceedure depends on unit type, and then watch the instantaneous readings of volts, amp and water temp right before the unit shuts off and report back the readings?

Personally, I have had five years of experience with my Goldline Aqualogic SWG and have been a member of several pool forums for more than seven years and I have never heard of a Goldline unit failing with a symption of a salt reading that was too high. I'm not saying it is impossible only that I have never heard that happening. Failure usually has syptoms of too low of a reading and/or a power supply warning but I don't remember ever hearing of a too high condition resulting from a faulty board or cell so that is why I am not convinced it is an issue with hardware. I still think it is worth your effort to reduce the salt level and just see what happens.

Also, some pool stores can also test the cell itself to see if it is working properly so you can at least rule that out.
Mark
Hydraulics 101; Pump and Pool Spreadsheets; Pump Ed 101
18'x36' 20k gallon plaster/gunite pool, 1/2 HP 2sp pump, Aqualogic PS8 SWCG, 420 sq-ft Cartridge Filter, Solar Panels, 6 jet spa, 1 HP jet pump, 400k BTU NG Heater
Txhomeguy
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Goldline "Aqua-Rite" salt chlorinator problems

Postby Txhomeguy » Sun 07 Nov, 2010 13:57

http://shop.solardirect.com/product_inf ... cts_id=220

I found this site. I imagine this may work. I have not tried it.
salt solutions, Tampa

Goldline "Aqua-Rite" salt chlorinator problems

Postby salt solutions, Tampa » Sun 14 Nov, 2010 16:44

For complete salt cell repair with a one year warranty call salt solutions.
steve
Pool Guys

How to Re-Calibrate your Salt System

Postby Pool Guys » Thu 17 Feb, 2011 16:15

Something that has been overlooked in the many techniques of getting a salt system working properly is the fact that the salt system control panel must sometimes need to be RE-CALIBRATED.

How do I know that my salt system control panel needs to be Re-Calibrated?
-When the control panel is displaying a significantly lower salt level than the water is accurately tested at.

How do I Re-Calibrate my salt system's control panel?
(For a Goldline Aqua-Rite SwimPure Plus or Pro)
-First of all, if your "Check Cell" light is flashing, push and hold the "diagnostics" button until the light stops flashing. This indication light comes on at routine intervals, such as a newer vehicle's "change oil" light might come on every 3000 miles. Once this is resolved, make sure that your t-cell is properly cleaned, and that your pool water has been accurately and manually tested at a high level. If your control panel is still displaying a lower salt level than the water is actually at, begin the Re-Calibration process:
-Turn the main switch from "Auto" to "Off", and then back to "Auto"
-Wait for about ten seconds, until you hear a click inside the panel
-Once you hear the click, immediately push the "diagnostics" button five times, where a negative number will display- starting high, and scrolling down.
-As it is scrolling down, once it reaches the number at which you know the pool salt level is actually at, move the main switch to "Super-chlorinate", then back to "Auto".
-This will Re-Calibrate your panel to the accurate salt level.

How do I know if I need a new T-Cell?
-If the problems continue to exist, or the panel keeps going back to the old, incorrect number, it most-likely means that you need a new turbo cell. Another indication of a bad cell is when the control panel is displaying "HOT", when the actual temperature of the pool/spa is at normal operating temperature. In this case, the temperature sensor inside the t-cell is bad, and is bets resolved by replacing the t-cell.

Where can I buy a new T-Cell?
-Pool Guy is a new business I have created to help get the information and supplies needed for the average pool owner. We have made ourselves available for customer service, and worked hard to keep our prices a lot lower than other competitive pool supply companies.
floridapooltech
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Goldline "Aqua-Rite" salt chlorinator problems

Postby floridapooltech » Tue 22 Feb, 2011 02:40

dorlando wrote:Just trying to determine if it is the board or cell before I buy anything, trying to save a service call. not sure how much I can trust tech support since two people gave me two different answers. I have heard that issues like this could be the board.

I was looking at your website and noticed your t 15 cell is over $100 less than anywhere else. How come you can sell it for so much less? Is it brand new with the 3 year warranty?



All products we sell are OEM brand new with the manufacturers warranty unless otherwise stated (clearance). The T-Cell 15 is the one with a 3 year warranty and is brand new to answer your questions directly!
poolguys

Goldline "Aqua-Rite" salt chlorinator problems

Postby poolguys » Thu 03 Mar, 2011 12:55

Something that has been overlooked in the many techniques of getting a salt system working properly is the fact that the salt system control panel must sometimes need to be Re-Calibrated.

How do I know that it needs to be Re-Calibrated?
-When the control panel is displaying a significantly lower salt level than the water is accurately tested at.

How do I Re-Calibrate my salt system's control panel?
(For a Goldline Aqua-Rite SwimPure Plus or Pro)
-First of all, if your "Check Cell" light is flashing, push and hold the "diagnostics" button until the light stops flashing. This indication light comes on at routine intervals, such as a newer vehicle's "change oil" light might come on every 3000 miles. Once this is resolved, make sure that your t-cell is properly cleaned, and that your pool water has been accurately and manually tested at a high level. If your control panel is still displaying a lower salt level than the water is actually at, begin the Re-Calibration process:
-Turn the main switch from "Auto" to "Off", and then back to "Auto"
-Wait for about ten seconds, until you hear a click inside the panel
-Once you hear the click, immediately push the "diagnostics" button five times, where a negative number will display- starting high, and scrolling down.
-As it is scrolling down, once it reaches the number at which you know the pool salt level is actually at, move the main switch to "Super-chlorinate", then back to "Auto".
-This will Re-Calibrate your panel to the accurate salt level.

How do I know if I need a new T-Cell?
-If the problems continue to exist, or the panel keeps going back to the old, incorrect number, it most-likely means that you need a new turbo cell. Another indication of a bad cell is when the control panel is displaying "HOT", when the actual temperature of the pool/spa is at normal operating temperature. In this case, the temperature sensor inside the t-cell is bad, and is bets resolved by replacing the t-cell.

Where can I buy a new T-Cell or Control Panel?
-Pool Guy is a business we have created to help get the information and supplies needed for the average pool owner. We have made ourselves available for customer service, and worked hard to keep our prices a lot lower than other competitive pool supply companies.
BOB FOREMAN

Goldline "Aqua-Rite" salt chlorinator problems

Postby BOB FOREMAN » Sat 19 Mar, 2011 20:41

my goldline shows reading on the screen but the lights are not on ,generating etc etc , any thoughts
dumbwhiteguy

Goldline "Aqua-Rite" salt chlorinator problems

Postby dumbwhiteguy » Fri 25 Mar, 2011 12:07

My Cell has the Cell temperature short reading too. I have a better fix than the resistor. Take a sensor like the one that reads the water temperature and wire it to the red and blue wires. Then drill a hole in your PVC pipe and mount it just like the water sensor that is already there. Problem solved. I actually drilled a hole in the cover plate to run the wire through and silicone it with 100% silicone and it will be sealed. This way it will read the water temperature and it's not just rigged with a resistor. Part was $ 32.00 Saved me $ 500.00
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shyswimmer
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Goldline "Aqua-Rite" salt chlorinator problems

Postby shyswimmer » Fri 01 Apr, 2011 15:52

The only downside to using sensors to control specific equipment or readings needs to be calibrated from time to time.
My random swimming gear rant.
PMOONEN

Goldline

Postby PMOONEN » Tue 19 Apr, 2011 16:37

Hello Quick Question,

Any one knows where the wires in the cell are connected, both corroded from salt, I have 2 black and 2 white wires. The temperature is still connected.
You can reach me direct at [email protected]
Regards,

Peter




Eng wrote:I had problems with my cell too. It seems like every 2 years they go bad. I got tired of paying money to get it replaced. I am an engineer, so I started studying how they work. It seems that the root of the problem is the temperature sensor at the cell. Check the temperature by pressing the button next to the display. Use a thermometer in the pool to check the water temperature. Is it off by more that 5 degrees? If it is, then you salinity will be wrong and it will call for more salt. The cell will shut down automatically. To overcome this situation I open my cell and cut the two wires on the side of the cell (red and blue). These are the temperature sensor wires. I installed an 8.5 K ohms resistor between the two wires. This will give you a forever temperature of 86 degrees. After that, the cell started working properly. Since I have a fixed temperature now I used salinity strips to keep track of the salt. This worked for me. If you want to do it, go ahead at your own risk. Other that this, there is no other way around it. I heard from other people having the same problem.
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Goldline "Aqua-Rite" salt chlorinator problems

Postby Firemedic138 » Thu 28 Apr, 2011 16:31

I have an Aqualogic PS8 system and have a slightly different problem. When I run the system, the salt display will show 3100. Then if I shut the system down and restart it, it will show 2300. It will alternate between the two readings each time I start/stop it. Now I have gathered from reading here that the cell switches polarity every time the system restarts. So, the voltage/amps are different depending on the direction the current is flowing. Is this due to bad rectifier(s) or a transformer with a bad/weak leg? I know it's not the cell, as I just replaced it, and the problem was present on the original cell also.

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