Goldline "Aqua-Rite" salt chlorinator problems

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Goldline "Aqua-Rite" salt chlorinator problems

Postby BOB FOREMAN » Sat 19 Mar, 2011 20:41

my goldline shows reading on the screen but the lights are not on ,generating etc etc , any thoughts


Goldline "Aqua-Rite" salt chlorinator problems

Postby dumbwhiteguy » Fri 25 Mar, 2011 12:07

My Cell has the Cell temperature short reading too. I have a better fix than the resistor. Take a sensor like the one that reads the water temperature and wire it to the red and blue wires. Then drill a hole in your PVC pipe and mount it just like the water sensor that is already there. Problem solved. I actually drilled a hole in the cover plate to run the wire through and silicone it with 100% silicone and it will be sealed. This way it will read the water temperature and it's not just rigged with a resistor. Part was $ 32.00 Saved me $ 500.00
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Goldline "Aqua-Rite" salt chlorinator problems

Postby shyswimmer » Fri 01 Apr, 2011 15:52

The only downside to using sensors to control specific equipment or readings needs to be calibrated from time to time.
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Postby PMOONEN » Tue 19 Apr, 2011 16:37

Hello Quick Question,

Any one knows where the wires in the cell are connected, both corroded from salt, I have 2 black and 2 white wires. The temperature is still connected.
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Eng wrote:I had problems with my cell too. It seems like every 2 years they go bad. I got tired of paying money to get it replaced. I am an engineer, so I started studying how they work. It seems that the root of the problem is the temperature sensor at the cell. Check the temperature by pressing the button next to the display. Use a thermometer in the pool to check the water temperature. Is it off by more that 5 degrees? If it is, then you salinity will be wrong and it will call for more salt. The cell will shut down automatically. To overcome this situation I open my cell and cut the two wires on the side of the cell (red and blue). These are the temperature sensor wires. I installed an 8.5 K ohms resistor between the two wires. This will give you a forever temperature of 86 degrees. After that, the cell started working properly. Since I have a fixed temperature now I used salinity strips to keep track of the salt. This worked for me. If you want to do it, go ahead at your own risk. Other that this, there is no other way around it. I heard from other people having the same problem.
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Goldline "Aqua-Rite" salt chlorinator problems

Postby Firemedic138 » Thu 28 Apr, 2011 16:31

I have an Aqualogic PS8 system and have a slightly different problem. When I run the system, the salt display will show 3100. Then if I shut the system down and restart it, it will show 2300. It will alternate between the two readings each time I start/stop it. Now I have gathered from reading here that the cell switches polarity every time the system restarts. So, the voltage/amps are different depending on the direction the current is flowing. Is this due to bad rectifier(s) or a transformer with a bad/weak leg? I know it's not the cell, as I just replaced it, and the problem was present on the original cell also.


Postby cpwensits » Sun 08 May, 2011 17:09

excel wrote:The sensor can also be replaced without having to replace the entire cell. It is a $20 part and is a very easy (less than 1/2 hr) fix.
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Goldline "Aqua-Rite" salt chlorinator problems

Postby meaux33 » Thu 19 May, 2011 19:38

I replaced the PCB board on my mineral springs control box. I found this thread after I bought a new one. Mine also had the burnt piece as described above. Now the no flow light blinks and times out, then goes dark. No lights are lite in control box. The digital readout shows 2800, 82, 15.5, 34 p, -0, AL-0, r 1.58 and t-15. But like I stated no lights are on and the control box does not make that click sound when it is energized and working correctly. The cell is a few years old. Any ideas?

Goldline "Aqua-Rite" salt chlorinator problems

Postby Knipper64 » Fri 27 May, 2011 18:44


I have a Hi salt water reading on my Aqua rite system, I recently replaced the flow switch and a theromister on the ciruit board. My cell is around 6 years old, could this cause a Hi salt water warning light? I have a new cell, but I just want to make sure before I replace the cell. Is there any way to test the cell, before replaing the cell. Thanks for the help

Warner Robins Ga


Postby bBEDARD » Sat 04 Jun, 2011 18:04

excel wrote:The sensor can also be replaced without having to replace the entire cell. It is a $20 part and is a very easy (less than 1/2 hr) fix.

Where can I get a replacement? I am told my sensor is about 150?


Postby jobby64 » Sun 05 Jun, 2011 22:15

excel wrote:The sensor can also be replaced without having to replace the entire cell. It is a $20 part and is a very easy (less than 1/2 hr) fix.

what is the part and how do you fix it if you would be so kind

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