Goldline "Aqua-Rite" salt chlorinator problems

SWGs, salt water chlorine generators, chlorinators,
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jamkeen

Goldline "Aqua-Rite" salt chlorinator problems

Postby jamkeen » Sat 15 Oct, 2011 17:05

Thank you Mike Munz!!! I went to our local pool supply store in Jackson Tn..Aloha Pool and Spa to buy one of these current limiters..The parts guy informed me that I would have to purchase the entire board! I guess he thought that since I was a woman that I hadn't done my research!!! I asked him twice about purchasing JUST the limiter..He was adamant that I would need the whole board..I proceeded to tell him that I knew that you could buy just the part and he will no longer receive my business..Thank you so much for posting this info on line..It just saved me several hundred dollars...


valentil

Goldline "Aqua-Rite" salt chlorinator problems

Postby valentil » Sat 19 Nov, 2011 14:17

Hello There!

I have a goldline control panel in house and a T-15 salt cell generator. The yellow light is on and a message appears that says "Cholorinator Off, Low Volts" and "Check System, Low Volts".

Do you know what this could mean?

Thanks!
GettMac

Goldline "Aqua-Rite" salt chlorinator problems

Postby GettMac » Tue 28 Feb, 2012 17:42

I have a couple questions regarding my Aqua-Rite/Turbo Cell chlorinator. The entire unit is about 6 years old. Never had any problems until now. It seems the chlorine production has tapered to near nothing. The salt level registers between 3100-3200 which is where it's always done fine. When I switch to "super chlorinate" the light does not display. Regardless of having the chlorine dial maxed or super chlorinated, testing shows very little chlorine levels. Is my cell dying? Also, how do I determine how many gallons my cell pumps in case I have to replace it?
Rslewis
I'm new here
I'm new here
Posts: 2
Joined: Fri 02 Mar, 2012 09:46
My Pool: 10000 gal inground chlorine generator solar heated
Location: Florida

Goldline "Aqua-Rite" salt chlorinator problems

Postby Rslewis » Fri 02 Mar, 2012 10:05

In case there are people still looking for this information as I do everytime I clean my cell.

To reset:
1) Turn the unit off
2) Turn it back to ' Auto '
3) Wait for the relay to click ( 5-10 sec )
4) Press the diagnostics button 5 times to display instant salt level.
Wait for the number to settle.

This should be done after you have cleaned and replaced the cell every 3 months ( cough ... once a year because you've been lazy :) )

Note: It is really common from what I've read and been told for the units to incorrectly display the salt levels. My generator is typically low at least 300. Always get your salt levels tested at a pool store. If your generator reading drops bellow a certain level it will stop generating salt.
Rslewis
I'm new here
I'm new here
Posts: 2
Joined: Fri 02 Mar, 2012 09:46
My Pool: 10000 gal inground chlorine generator solar heated
Location: Florida

Goldline "Aqua-Rite" salt chlorinator problems

Postby Rslewis » Fri 02 Mar, 2012 10:10

@ gettmac
On the Hayward site they should have a list of vendors that can actually test your cell. This saved me $500 a few years ago. You take your cell to the store and they can hook it up and test it.

Worst case you are correct and you will need to replace the unit.
I've just been told for the first time to clean my sensor and I've actually contacted Hayward to figure out how that procedure works.

More than likely it needs to be cleaned. 1 part acit : 4 parts water in a bucket and rinse the cell. Some of the directions say to scrape with a wood or plastic object I've never thought that would be a good idea.

You should clean the cell every 3 months. Most cleanings should simply be taking it off line and cleaning it out with a hose. The acid cleaning should be done if you see scaling that doesn't come off with the hose.
Guest

Goldline "Aqua-Rite" salt chlorinator problems

Postby Guest » Mon 12 Mar, 2012 16:50

UPDATE:
I took the cell into a pool supply and had it tested. It passed with flying colors. Though it's 6 years-old, it's working properly. With that eliminated, what is the next step to figuring out why chlorine is not being generated?
joejoe

Goldline "Aqua-Rite" salt chlorinator problems

Postby joejoe » Mon 26 Mar, 2012 08:19

I have the same problem is GETTMAC. Do I need a new cell?
joejoe

Goldline "Aqua-Rite" salt chlorinator problems

Postby joejoe » Mon 26 Mar, 2012 08:24

My system has the same problem as GettMac. The control systems indicates that it is generating, and that is is sending the correct voltage and current to the cell. It is not producing chlorine. I took the cell in to Leslies and there testing equipment said the cell was okay. When I turn the control to superchlorinate, the superchlorinate light does not come on. The salt level shows 3400 which is within range, but Leslies tested the salt level at 2800. I am not sure which level is correct. Any suggestions? Should I get a new cell?
GettMac

Goldline "Aqua-Rite" salt chlorinator problems

Postby GettMac » Tue 27 Mar, 2012 14:03

Still waiting for feedback. The cell was tested and passed so the cell itself is not the problem. Anybody have any ideas?
odie7281

YOU GUESSED IT...SALT SYS

Postby odie7281 » Thu 19 Apr, 2012 11:50

boss wrote:test for chlorine away...i said away from the return jets. You won't be looking for combined chlorine...just free chlorine in a salt system. When you adjust the o/p of the cell you are telling it to produce that percentage of the time that the pump is running. So run the pump the proper amount of time. Don't be a cheapskate or you won't get good results.

or just go back to a chlorine systen and be done with this bad system and spend the money and time you save not messing with this system on your self i will never buy a salt system in my life time to mutch work and time im happy with my chlorine system and spend more tine enjoying my swiming pool than working on it,in my opion this gold line is crap line!
Ed F

Goldline "Aqua-Rite" salt chlorinator problems

Postby Ed F » Mon 07 May, 2012 00:20

I have had a Aqua Rite system for several years in a 28000 gal pool. As the cells get older it will give out a false salt level reading and keeps getting lower until it will shut the system down saying low salt. This happens right after you warranty runs out. The whole cell isn't bad it's just the salt sensor. I know the Aqua Rite engineers could fix this problem if they wanted to. If someone can figure out how to bypass the false salt reading the cell will still make chlorine.
Ed F
Susan

Goldline "Aqua-Rite" salt chlorinator problems

Postby Susan » Sun 03 Jun, 2012 13:02

Have you checked the pressure on your pump? (On my pool is should be 20 or so, 40 is too high.) My Design-Rite salt chlorinator shows no flow when there is too high pressure in the pool pump. Also, it seems my chlorine system doesn't work right when other readings are off. Of course salt, but also alkilinity
malfield

Goldline "Aqua-Rite" salt chlorinator problems

Postby malfield » Sat 16 Jun, 2012 21:52

My T Cell lasted 9 years with no trouble until the beginning of the new swim season when it wasn't generating chlorine and the error message said "check cell." Cells don't wear out. The plates get covered with minerals and cease to conduct. All you need to do is soak the cell in a 20% solution of pool acid and wait until the fizzing stops. Usually 2 to 3 minutes. Then rinse and replace. I'm an engineer who used to own electroplating shops. When plating slowed down or stopped, usually it was just the anodes with mineral build up. We either soaked them in acid or scraped and brushed them to remove the oxides or chlorides. No big mystery. Don't believe anyone who tells you that the cells "wear out."
USUBMARINER

Goldline

Postby USUBMARINER » Tue 26 Jun, 2012 14:04

Eng wrote:I had problems with my cell too. It seems like every 2 years they go bad. I got tired of paying money to get it replaced. I am an engineer, so I started studying how they work. It seems that the root of the problem is the temperature sensor at the cell. Check the temperature by pressing the button next to the display. Use a thermometer in the pool to check the water temperature. Is it off by more that 5 degrees? If it is, then you salinity will be wrong and it will call for more salt. The cell will shut down automatically. To overcome this situation I open my cell and cut the two wires on the side of the cell (red and blue). These are the temperature sensor wires. I installed an 8.5 K ohms resistor between the two wires. This will give you a forever temperature of 86 degrees. After that, the cell started working properly. Since I have a fixed temperature now I used salinity strips to keep track of the salt. This worked for me. If you want to do it, go ahead at your own risk. Other that this, there is no other way around it. I heard from other people having the same problem.


Is your cell still running good without replacing it? How did you install 8.5 K ohms resistor? Was it blue and red connected together with 1 resistor or was it 2 resistors going back to the temp sensor?

Thank you in advance ! ! !
Ed F

Goldline

Postby Ed F » Mon 06 Aug, 2012 01:11

chuck decker wrote:
Eng wrote:I had problems with my cell too. It seems like every 2 years they go bad. I got tired of paying money to get it replaced. I am an engineer, so I started studying how they work. It seems that the root of the problem is the temperature sensor at the cell. Check the temperature by pressing the button next to the display. Use a thermometer in the pool to check the water temperature. Is it off by more that 5 degrees? If it is, then you salinity will be wrong and it will call for more salt. The cell will shut down automatically. To overcome this situation I open my cell and cut the two wires on the side of the cell (red and blue). These are the temperature sensor wires. I installed an 8.5 K ohms resistor between the two wires. This will give you a forever temperature of 86 degrees. After that, the cell started working properly. Since I have a fixed temperature now I used salinity strips to keep track of the salt. This worked for me. If you want to do it, go ahead at your own risk. Other that this, there is no other way around it. I heard from other people having the same problem.



I am having the exact same problem with my Goldline T15 Turbo Cell is the resistor a 5 watt or 10 watt resistor?

Thanks
Chuck

I am having trouble with low salt reading on my Aqua-Rite cell this is my 3rd one that has gone bad right after the warrenty rauns out. Does any one know which wires inside the cell go to the salt sensor? There is 3 wires one red one blue and one yellow. I read where a guy said he put a resistor betwwen the red and blue wire that fixed his false tempature reading. So if I put a resistor betwwe the red and yellow wire would that fix my false salt reading?

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