Goldline "Aqua-Rite" salt chlorinator problems

SWGs, salt water chlorine generators, chlorinators,
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trailergary

Goldline "Aqua-Rite" salt chlorinator problems

Postby trailergary » Tue 19 May, 2009 10:38

My unit is only the first led light (power) no other leds are on. 2.60 is displayed on the screen and thats it. Anybody have any ideas.
Thanks :


Erby

Goldline "Aqua-Rite" salt chlorinator problems

Postby Erby » Thu 04 Jun, 2009 11:21

Im in Houston and have an 18-20,000 gal salt pool with a Aqua-Rite T-15 cell now 6 yrs old. I clean it as recommended every 3 months etc. I noticed my inhouse control pad said ( 0-Salt), so again I clean it and took it to a local pool supply and their testing equipt shows it is bad.

Im reading that several of you have replaced sensors, resistors etc? How did you get inside the unit since it appears machine compressed? Thanks
erby

Salt

Postby erby » Thu 04 Jun, 2009 14:31

WHERE IS THIS SENSOR & IF IT'S INSIDE THE THE T15 CELL HOW DO YOU GET TO IT? CELL APPEARS TO BE MACHINE COMPRESSED ON... THANKS ERBY

excel wrote:The sensor can also be replaced without having to replace the entire cell. It is a $20 part and is a very easy (less than 1/2 hr) fix.
Guest

Goldline "Aqua-Rite" salt chlorinator problems

Postby Guest » Sat 06 Jun, 2009 01:42

My system is showing that the salt level is extremely low, but when I had it tested it is extremely high. Is the sensor in the cell itself or is it seperate. Does this mean that the cell needs to be replaced?
Me...
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Posts: 302
Joined: Thu 26 Feb, 2009 11:11

Goldline "Aqua-Rite" salt chlorinator problems

Postby Me... » Sat 06 Jun, 2009 09:22

Any system that uses sensors to take readings and control a piece of equipment needs to be calibrated from time to time. This includes ORP sensors, pH sensors and Salt sensors. This includes the pocket testers you can just whip out and take an electronic test of the water with. Nothing negates the need to have a good manual test kit handy.
aquauser

Goldline "Aqua-Rite" salt chlorinator problems

Postby aquauser » Sun 14 Jun, 2009 10:54

Ralph, you may just need a new turbo cell. Try http://www.cheappoolproducts.com They carry the Aqua Rite Chlorine Generator and its turbo cells. I found that their prices are really cheap and they sell all sorts of pool supplies.

Steve.
Guest

Goldline "Aqua-Rite" salt chlorinator problems

Postby Guest » Mon 15 Jun, 2009 12:06

I am assuming I need a new cell since mine is 6 years old and been giving me trouble for a year, but how do I know that the control unit is working okay when the cell isn't? Do the control units go bad very often?
Motrader
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Joined: Thu 18 Jun, 2009 12:11
My Pool: 18,600 gallon inground pool with a Goldline Salt Chlorinating System.
Location: Dallas

Goldline "Aqua-Rite" salt chlorinator problems

Postby Motrader » Thu 18 Jun, 2009 12:26

My unit is generating at 100% and the generating light is on. The chlorine reading in my pool is 0. Please let me know if anyone has any ideas as to what is going on. Thanks.
bcequipment

Goldline "Aqua-Rite" salt chlorinator problems

Postby bcequipment » Sat 20 Jun, 2009 14:44

I have had a Goldline Aqua Rite Salt Chlorination System in my pool for 8 years. It has worked for about 30% of the time. I would never recommend the salt system to anyone. The very expensive cells constantly need replaced and last a varying amount of time. I haven't used the system for the last year or so. I have reverted to adding chemicals. More problems than they are worth.
Mike Munz
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My Pool: 17x32, kidney with raised spa and bar table. Mashinery to work the toys.
Location: West Palm Beach

Goldline "Aqua-Rite" salt chlorinator problems

Postby Mike Munz » Sat 20 Jun, 2009 17:11

Hi Forum, I have an Aqua-Rite. It has been working great for 4 years. Two weeks ago I lost power to the unit. I called Gold Line support. They told me that it is either the transformer or a current limiter on the circuit board that has gone bad. After looking at the board I noticed that the current limiter had overheated, so I decided to replace it. This solved the problem and the unit is working fine again. The current limiter is in the top right corner of the board and looks like a black disk the size of a Quarter. The Part Number is SL32 2R025. You can order this limiter from Digi-Key. Here is a link to the product: http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSea ... 70-1062-ND
I hope this helps someone else.
Joshua

Goldline "Aqua-Rite" salt chlorinator problems

Postby Joshua » Sun 21 Jun, 2009 10:53

I am glad I found the information you posted.
I followed Daren's procedure and was able to fix the problem.
This is awesome - I am really grateful.
jteague22

Goldline "Aqua-Rite" salt chlorinator problems

Postby jteague22 » Thu 25 Jun, 2009 14:20

I have had the salt system for three seasons and then one day I had the flashing yellow light telling me to check the cell. I did, cleaned it really well after already doing that a month prior. I called a local supplier to come out and check it. Now they are telling me I need a new circuit board. It will cost me $800.00 and thats pro-rated since its under 5 years. I am thoroughly disgusted with this system.
neillebo
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Joined: Tue 30 Jun, 2009 15:08
My Pool: 650sf gunite. Aquarite cholorination

Another problem-this time salt level shows too low

Postby neillebo » Tue 30 Jun, 2009 15:17

Can someone help with this twist. I had a new aquarite installed 4 summers ago. So this begins my 5th season. I only run it a few months a year, so cell should be ok. My pool guy always said he cleaned the cell during winterizatiion, but i suspected he was lying... so, this season i get the famous "inspect cell". I did clean it a year or two ago with acid as it looked real bad.. it said i had very low salt so i put in 300 pounds (that's what my startup pool guy said it needed).. well, that only raised my level from 1900 to mid 2000s.. so, i added another 40 pounds and another.. got it up to 3000 and then it dropped in a few days. so added another each week. OK, schmuck here, since i noticed i messed up when my pool felt like the atlantic ocean. So, bought some salt test stips and i was close to 6000!!! so, took out my cell and there was buildup galore. At this stage it showed 2500 PPM. .After cleaning and firing it up, it went to 2900 and then 3000. So i was pleased that it looked like it was working. then went to 3500 and gave me the high salt light. also good since I knew the level was high. At the same time, i was draining my pool and adding fresh water... i assumed the level on the swg would just drop naturally. well, it went down to 2600 again after 2 days (sure, the sale level was dropping due to my slow dilution method), but the salt strips still show the real salt level around 4300 today.. Do i need to clean it yet again (it was only 4 days ago that i cleaned it).. I guess I am just not sure after cleaning, even though my salt level was off the charts would it show such a low level). I hate to think i need a new cell. I will clean the cell in acid solution one more time AFTER my pool reached the 3300 level or so (which should be by today).. ugggh.. any ideas? I have read all of these posts.. just not sure why the salt reading wasnt close after i cleaned out all of the junk....
AzWiz
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Joined: Thu 02 Jul, 2009 11:38
My Pool: 22,000 diving pool (8.5' depth in deep end), Pebble Tec (GoldLine) T-15 salt system. Pool replastered by Shasta 5 yrs ago. Have replaced original cell once - warranty prorated - cost $475 + install. Hayward Sand filter w/10 yr warranty split last year. Had to argue w/Leslie's to get it replaced. Hayward did. Leslie's no longer has my business. 1.5 hp Hayward pump.
Location: Phoenix,Az

Goldline

Postby AzWiz » Sun 05 Jul, 2009 17:50

@ Eng - post #3 in this forum regarding cell modification for bad salt readings

Eng wrote:I had problems with my cell too. ....... I installed an 8.5 K ohms resistor between the two wires.

:?: :?: What watt resistor did you use, please :?: :?:
azloser

Goldline "Aqua-Rite" salt chlorinator problems

Postby azloser » Mon 06 Jul, 2009 17:27

Can someone tell me what to buy in the way of a resistor? 8.5K ohms? All of them that I find are rated in wattage also.
That was my post last march. Mine is still inoperatable

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