Goldline "Aqua-Rite" salt chlorinator problems

aquauser · Postby **aquauser** » Sun 14 Jun, 2009 10:54

Ralph, you may just need a new turbo cell. Try http://www.cheappoolproducts.com They carry the Aqua Rite Chlorine Generator and its turbo cells. I found that their prices are really cheap and they sell all sorts of pool supplies.

Steve.

Guest · Postby **Guest** » Mon 15 Jun, 2009 12:06

I am assuming I need a new cell since mine is 6 years old and been giving me trouble for a year, but how do I know that the control unit is working okay when the cell isn't? Do the control units go bad very often?

Motrader · Postby **Motrader** » Thu 18 Jun, 2009 12:26

My unit is generating at 100% and the generating light is on. The chlorine reading in my pool is 0. Please let me know if anyone has any ideas as to what is going on. Thanks.

bcequipment · Postby **bcequipment** » Sat 20 Jun, 2009 14:44

I have had a Goldline Aqua Rite Salt Chlorination System in my pool for 8 years. It has worked for about 30% of the time. I would never recommend the salt system to anyone. The very expensive cells constantly need replaced and last a varying amount of time. I haven't used the system for the last year or so. I have reverted to adding chemicals. More problems than they are worth.

Mike Munz · Postby **Mike Munz** » Sat 20 Jun, 2009 17:11

Hi Forum, I have an Aqua-Rite. It has been working great for 4 years. Two weeks ago I lost power to the unit. I called Gold Line support. They told me that it is either the transformer or a current limiter on the circuit board that has gone bad. After looking at the board I noticed that the current limiter had overheated, so I decided to replace it. This solved the problem and the unit is working fine again. The current limiter is in the top right corner of the board and looks like a black disk the size of a Quarter. The Part Number is SL32 2R025. You can order this limiter from Digi-Key. Here is a link to the product: http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSea ... 70-1062-ND
I hope this helps someone else.

Joshua · Postby **Joshua** » Sun 21 Jun, 2009 10:53

I am glad I found the information you posted.
I followed Daren's procedure and was able to fix the problem.
This is awesome - I am really grateful.

jteague22 · Postby **jteague22** » Thu 25 Jun, 2009 14:20

I have had the salt system for three seasons and then one day I had the flashing yellow light telling me to check the cell. I did, cleaned it really well after already doing that a month prior. I called a local supplier to come out and check it. Now they are telling me I need a new circuit board. It will cost me $800.00 and thats pro-rated since its under 5 years. I am thoroughly disgusted with this system.

neillebo · Postby **neillebo** » Tue 30 Jun, 2009 15:17

Can someone help with this twist. I had a new aquarite installed 4 summers ago. So this begins my 5th season. I only run it a few months a year, so cell should be ok. My pool guy always said he cleaned the cell during winterizatiion, but i suspected he was lying... so, this season i get the famous "inspect cell". I did clean it a year or two ago with acid as it looked real bad.. it said i had very low salt so i put in 300 pounds (that's what my startup pool guy said it needed).. well, that only raised my level from 1900 to mid 2000s.. so, i added another 40 pounds and another.. got it up to 3000 and then it dropped in a few days. so added another each week. OK, schmuck here, since i noticed i messed up when my pool felt like the atlantic ocean. So, bought some salt test stips and i was close to 6000!!! so, took out my cell and there was buildup galore. At this stage it showed 2500 PPM. .After cleaning and firing it up, it went to 2900 and then 3000. So i was pleased that it looked like it was working. then went to 3500 and gave me the high salt light. also good since I knew the level was high. At the same time, i was draining my pool and adding fresh water... i assumed the level on the swg would just drop naturally. well, it went down to 2600 again after 2 days (sure, the sale level was dropping due to my slow dilution method), but the salt strips still show the real salt level around 4300 today.. Do i need to clean it yet again (it was only 4 days ago that i cleaned it).. I guess I am just not sure after cleaning, even though my salt level was off the charts would it show such a low level). I hate to think i need a new cell. I will clean the cell in acid solution one more time AFTER my pool reached the 3300 level or so (which should be by today).. ugggh.. any ideas? I have read all of these posts.. just not sure why the salt reading wasnt close after i cleaned out all of the junk....

AzWiz · Postby **AzWiz** » Sun 05 Jul, 2009 17:50

@ Eng - post #3 in this forum regarding cell modification for bad salt readings

Eng wrote:I had problems with my cell too. ....... I installed an 8.5 K ohms resistor between the two wires.

What watt resistor did you use, please :?:

azloser · Postby **azloser** » Mon 06 Jul, 2009 17:27

Can someone tell me what to buy in the way of a resistor? 8.5K ohms? All of them that I find are rated in wattage also.
That was my post last march. Mine is still inoperatable

promise1 · Postby **promise1** » Thu 23 Jul, 2009 21:33

Trish002 wrote:I am having lots of problems with my pool. I can't get it to clear up. I am getting some kind of white cloudy discharge from the pool jets. Does this have anything to do with the salt generator. What can I do to possibly correct the problem? I know my stablizer is a little low and we are adding more. The ph is OK. Thanks for any help.

sound like you have d e going back into the pool, a tear inside the filter

Roy Berry · Postby **Roy Berry** » Mon 27 Jul, 2009 18:27

I have a Goldline, it is reading in metric how do I get back to good old English, also can you fix the flow sensor,
ie, magnet replacement on swing arm.

wes5672 · Postby **wes5672** » Wed 05 Aug, 2009 16:26

Mike Munz wrote:Hi Forum, I have an Aqua-Rite. It has been working great for 4 years. Two weeks ago I lost power to the unit. I called Gold Line support. They told me that it is either the transformer or a current limiter on the circuit board that has gone bad. After looking at the board I noticed that the current limiter had overheated, so I decided to replace it. This solved the problem and the unit is working fine again. The current limiter is in the top right corner of the board and looks like a black disk the size of a Quarter. The Part Number is SL32 2R025. You can order this limiter from Digi-Key. Here is a link to the product: http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSea ... 70-1062-ND
I hope this helps someone else.

This is exactly what happen to my Aqua-rite, Thanks you saved me alot of time looking for the part. $2.42 and $3 for shipping. Alot cheaper than a complete board ($259).

J. J. · Postby **J. J.** » Fri 07 Aug, 2009 16:23

I have an Aqua Rite system with a T-cell 15. I had it two years and had to have it replaced. After fighting it was covered under the (5 year warranty). One year and one month later it is out again. Should be under warranty. NO. It is a pro-rated warranty in years 3-5. The one that was replaced only has a one year warranty because it was replaced and not purchased. New ones automatically come with a 3 year warranty. All sounds like a scam from either Pinch-A-Penny or Hayward/Goldline. These systems shouldn't go bad every year or two when salt levels are maintained and the cell is cleaned every 3 months or more. Don't buy this system and don't buy Hayward/Goldline.

texpool · Postby **texpool** » Fri 14 Aug, 2009 15:33

I have had a salt water system for 8 years. (aquarite 2001) The first salt cell lasted just short of a year and was replaced under warranty. The second lasted about 14 months and I replaced it with one ordered over the internet. In year 4 I had to replace the main board for about $350. The internet cell (a t-15) lasted until this summer. The salt level started to drop so I knew it was time for a new cell. I ordered a new glx-t-15 for a replacement. The old one was still generating chlorine at 3.0 ppm with being on for 6 hours at 85% setting. When I replace the old one with the new one my chlorine started to drop. After a week it was below .5 ppm. The box said it was generating. I had the cell tested as well as the water. Cell tested good. Salt was 3000, ph 7.4, cynauric acid at 80, alkalinity at 100. I increased the circulation time to 9 hours and still no chlorine. I put the old cell on and the next day the chlorine reading was at 5.0. I put the new cell back on and within 3 days it's back at 1ppm. I had a distributor for aquarite come out and they said I needed a new system, so I went for it. Still no chlorine. They want me to increase the cynauric acid to 100ppm. Can anyone tell me what to do?