Goldline "Aqua-Rite" salt chlorinator problems

[riverdogg8899]

Hi Ralph,

If its a knock off of a gold line cell you can't guarantee its working ability. I have had great results with gold line though. I do know the cells do go bad about every 3-5 years depending on how they are maintained, water chemistry etc. There are a few things to make sure your cell lasts as long as possible. First, make sure that you clean your cell with a 4/1 solution of acid to water. Let it soak until no bubbles are present from calcium. Do not stick any kind of metal object in the cell to dislodge any kind calcium. Keep the chlorine between 2700-3500PPM always. Make sure not to over acidtize your pool. Remember, in hotter climates the cell is going to work harder to produce chlorine and will not last as long as a pool from a colder climate. If the chemicals are balanced it will reduce the amount of chlorine generation so your cell will not have to work as hard.

If you need any help we might be able to help you here.

Good luck,

Rob

All these tips may help you from the cell burning out too fast.

I have a 20 x 40 fiberglass pool with a one year old "Mineral-Springs" salt sanitizer. The unit is actually a re-branded Goldline Controls "Aqua Rite" unit and seemingly has ceased working. I have weekly pool service and the unit has been cleaned several times, the las by me. It's clean as a whistle and the salt reading is just about 2600. Of course, it's calling for salt, but also the "check cell" light continues to flash.

My pool service people (also the folks who installed it originally) have told me that two months ago, they knew it was on it's last legs and are in the process of having the manufacturer replace it. They also told me that they replace 3 or 4 per month since they have trouble handling water here in Mohave County Arizona.

Has anyone else had trouble with there types of units, either here in Arizona or else where in the country? Seems like if they have problems, they shouldn't be sold in the first place.

Ralph

[too tired]

I no one thing for sure Goldline salt generators are JUNK... When I plug mine in the transformer makes a loud bang,The thing sometimes clorinates and sometimes it wont and I have cleaned the unit.The High salt does not work anymore ,The reset will not work anymore. Whats next. I dont recomend them to anyone .

[Jeff Rogers]

I had the Mineral Springs unit and you are right it is the same as the AquaRiter by Hayward. That was a big plus for being able to obtain a replacement cell for it. I had another unit that was made by Compupool that did not make enough chlorine for my 23,000 gallon pool even though Compu Pool claimed it would. In talking to several different pool stores I found out that the Aqaurite / Swimpure / Mineral Springs is the only unit made by a major manufactuer and it is made in the United Staes and not some 3rd world country like many of the others. I am an electronics engineer and once I looked at the difference between the circuit boards on the Hayward Aquarite VS the discount brands I saw where the other guys take shortcuts. Trust me you only want the Aquarite. For the difference in price (roughly 20 to 30% more) you are getting a unit that is desined to take the wear and tear. I have replaced my Cell twice in 8 years and was happy to pay for a new cell to get the dependabilty and Chlorine production you get with the Aquarite.; Don't fall into the trap of buying one of the bargain brands. You will not be happy long term - I did it and I know.

[Kevin Chambers]

I Agree with Jeff only get the AQUARITE unit by Hayward. It performs as advertised and will make the amount of chlorine they claim. The other make big claims and then have an asterisk * with a diclaimer about how the heat of the water and all kinds of other factors will effect the output. Hayward Aquarite does the best Job in my opinion and my pool store offers 4 kinds but says Aquarite is the strongest. Mine was only $179.00 more than the cheapest off brand they had. So for piece of mind I spent the extra money and have been 100% satisfied !!

[Ken Alexander]

I had problems with my cell too. It seems like every 2 years they go bad. I got tired of paying money to get it replaced. I am an engineer, so I started studying how they work. It seems that the root of the problem is the temperature sensor at the cell. Check the temperature by pressing the button next to the display. Use a thermometer in the pool to check the water temperature. Is it off by more that 5 degrees? If it is, then you salinity will be wrong and it will call for more salt. The cell will shut down automatically. To overcome this situation I open my cell and cut the two wires on the side of the cell (red and blue). These are the temperature sensor wires. I installed an 8.5 K ohms resistor between the two wires. This will give you a forever temperature of 86 degrees. After that, the cell started working properly. Since I have a fixed temperature now I used salinity strips to keep track of the salt. This worked for me. If you want to do it, go ahead at your own risk. Other that this, there is no other way around it. I heard from other people having the same problem.

[ken Alexander]

Mr eng
How did you install the 8.5k ohm resistor did you cut the red and blue wires from the sensor and add the reisitor beween the red and blue wires coming form the control pannel, or did you put the risistors bewteen the conrol pannel and the cell sensor and is the risistor directional.

[sherwin]

I replaced my goldline cell this year for ~$500 and the motherboard last year for $650 so I have basically replaced the whole system within 5 years of installation. I am really disappointed that there are no troubleshooting tools installed in the system. My system is working great now and I expect it to ramain so because of this web site. If you take the time to read every post you will find out a lot of information to help you extend the life of your cell. There is one entry from a former pool technician that will tell you information about when the cell will work and when it will not. Another thing that appears to help is cleaning the cell at least twice a month. Also, if you get mustard algae in your pool DO NOT use a copper based chemical to treat it as it will plate out copper on your grid very quickly. Do not add salt to the pool unless the cholrinator is off. Do not unplug the salt cell unless the breaker to the cell is off. I shut the whole cabinet down just to make sure. Do not use the 4 to 1 water/acid bath unless it's the last resort. Hayward has told me not to let the cell rest in the bath more than 15 minutes and rinse it out quickly. Do not let it sit overnight in vinegar, as one web site I visited suggests, as this will damage the cell. Do not rely on the salt reading on the panel to tell you how much salt is in your pool. Catch a sample and take it to the pool store and let them test it for you. If your sample shows a high level of salt and the panel is indicating a low level then bring the salt concentration down by drawing the pool down and replacing with fresh water. When you get the salt level down to what should be a workable concentration you may have to enter the diagnostics menu to reset the salt reading. If this fails, I suggest replacing the cell. All of this information I have gathered from pool technicians, this website, or Hayward technical folks on the phone. Good Luck.

[johnny cool]

LOOK people, what are you doing! Ditch the salt cell, its nothing but a waste of LIFE clearly@! Let me break it down for you:

#1 You are not saving money = Sure in the short run it cost 8-10$ a mo to run the salt cell compared to 10-15$ for liquid or granular chlorine. But at the end of 3-5 years o no! a new salt cell 500-1000$ try equating that into this example

#2 "Its so natural because we are swimming in salt not chlornie" Really>? Try the fact that salt absorbs moisture from your skin...and chlorine does too. Try eleiminating one of those and you could only be better off.

#3 Tile, Tile, and Gunite! Salt absorbs into EVERYTHING porise (i hope i spelled that right). So needless to say MORE money spent hiring people like me to come out and clean your walls, tile, and pool.

#4 You probably have a cartridge filter, this has nothing to do with the previous three but it just further proves you had no idea what you were doing when you build your pool. SAND FILTER is the only answer. Saves energy, money, and TIME!

There enjoy that advice, because its the only senceable bit on here. I service 175+ pools in Sacramento Ca and have been doing it for 9 years now, get a clue, and ask an expert, one who isn't interest in taking your money!

Nick
Pool Service Sacramentoenails

[Guest]

starting my filter the pro logic reads low salt, after about a minute it reads high salt/amp. how do i correct this

[joesteens1]

An interesting solution, but my temperature sensor is independent of the cell. Got any additional information?

Ralph

PS As I read your post do I understand that you have circumvented the use of the display board?

actually the new ones have one in the cell and outside it as well.

[las vagas]

I had problems with my cell too. It seems like every 2 years they go bad. I got tired of paying money to get it replaced. I am an engineer, so I started studying how they work. It seems that the root of the problem is the temperature sensor at the cell. Check the temperature by pressing the button next to the display. Use a thermometer in the pool to check the water temperature. Is it off by more that 5 degrees? If it is, then you salinity will be wrong and it will call for more salt. The cell will shut down automatically. To overcome this situation I open my cell and cut the two wires on the side of the cell (red and blue). These are the temperature sensor wires. I installed an 8.5 K ohms resistor between the two wires. This will give you a forever temperature of 86 degrees. After that, the cell started working properly. Since I have a fixed temperature now I used salinity strips to keep track of the salt. This worked for me. If you want to do it, go ahead at your own risk. Other that this, there is no other way around it. I heard from other people having the same problem.

will try this! I'm on my second cell and it doent like the las vegas heat... They also don't seem to like big pools.

[Willtur]

I have the same issue with my salt sensor, I dont know where the problem lies as the cell is clean as a whistle but the salt reading is way off shows 1800 when it is a couple hundred above the desired amount per the manual. I was looking into a way to bypass the salt sensor to see which one I needed to replace but havent found any steps on that, just flow and temperature. Is there anyway to troubleshoot which is really the problem? I can buy a brand new cell for a deal but if it ends up being the control unit im in for a loss. Thanks!

Is the temp and the salt sensor the same thing?

[Willtur]

btw I have the goldline with a t-15 if that matters.

[floridapooltech]

btw I have the goldline with a t-15 if that matters.

When was the last time this cell was replaced and how many hours per day does the unit run? Also, what is your pool/spa combined volume?

[Willtur]

I have had it for 3 years and I would say in the 20k range as far as size, When I take the samples in for testing I end up with no chlorine but over on salt( enough to balance out with a summer of splashing). The setup does the same thing each time I turn it on, it generates for a few seconds but reads the pool salt at 1600 and shuts off, and it is nowhere near that low. The pool places I have went to show I am over on salt each time. I would like to bypass the salt sensor as some people do the temperature or flow switch but need to know if there is even one on the cell to figure out which needs service or replaced. I would hate to buy a cell then it be the control box and even then I would like to bypass it to get by till I can afford it. Thanks!

I read about the bypass with the ohm resistors, Are the salt and temp sensor one in the same?