Doe this Baffle you??

[Pool_Fool]

My:
Tot Alk is 140
Calc Hardness is 290
Temp Apx 83 F
Cy Acid 35
PH (this morn) 8.0

I know the PH is high and will lower it with acid this afternoon. It has tended to be high after converting to salt pool. But from what I understand high PH is not a concern for corrosion to pool surfaces. (My Saturation index is +.7. I thought a minus was corrosive.) Yet, since installing the salt system my ph climbs to the high side and my pool surface (plaster) seems to be deteriorating. The directly out from the jet at the shallow end of the pool is where the greying at the bottom is the worst. Every morning there is the same type of "crumbs" or flecks of whitish materials.
Here are pictures of my pool as of a few weeks ago.
http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/kahana_bay/my_photos

I need a wizard!!!!

[Guest]

Check the calcium level. If the calcium is too low it will literally eat the surface off of your pool's interior. Too high a level will leave a white chrystaline ring around the water line on the tile.

[Billy]

Do you have a sand filter?. I suspect you have grains of sand leaking into your pool from the filter. Maybe the filter was opened at the time you had your salt chlorinator installed. The high Ph is normal with salt pools, but you must keep it down in the 7.2 - 7.4 range for your chlorine to be more effective.

[Larry]

The greying is probably not erosion but scaling. A high saturation index indicates a potential to scale.

Remember the principle of salt-chlorine generators is to ionise salt (sodium chloride) to produce active chlorine (hypochlorous acid - an acid) and sodium (a salt). It can be expected that both the pH and the total hardness will rise. If you are measuring calcium hardness only, you may easily miss the fact that the total hardness level has jumped.

With a saturation index of +0.7 you should consider keeping your pH at 7.2 - 7.4, which is also the pH of tears and is thus ideal for pool water that is "eye-friendly".