How do I decrease water hardness levels in my pool

Total hardness and calcium hardness in pool water.
Scale, calcium buildup, hard water and scaling problems.
Rose

How do I decrease water hardness levels in my pool

Postby Rose » Mon 01 Jun, 2009 12:36

The water here is so HARD we cant add anything to it accept algacide. When chlorine is added to it, it instantly turns orange !! Once it turned almost black ! We have tried metal-out and all kinds of other products. Nothing seems to work. Id rather have someone come fill it with good water, throw a chlorine floater in there and leave it be. It would then stay clean and clear all summer. I have been trying to find someone who fills pools for a reasonable price but so far no luck. Im in the fresno county area.


BobbyJ59
Pool Newbie
Pool Newbie
Posts: 1
Joined: Wed 04 Aug, 2010 00:08
My Pool: 25k gallon, shallow end wider than deep end. 4 cartridge filter. Way too many trees way too near ...
Location: Las Vegas

Pool hardness

Postby BobbyJ59 » Wed 11 Aug, 2010 18:38

Cleaburn wrote:I have been told that the water in my pool needs to be changed out every two years to reduce the hardness level. Unfortunately, its a big pool and it seems a huge waste of water to do that (I live in Vegas). The cost to replace my pool water would be about $350? Is there a way to treat my problem without changing it? My pool hardness spiked out the meter (over 2500) and they say 1100 or so is the norm.


I see this is an old post (Tue 02 Sep, 2008 16:36) but thought I would respond anyway...

I live in Las Vegas and have recently bought a house that has a 25,000 gal in-ground pool. I used a service for a few months but was unhappy with it, so I started acquiring the things I needed to do the job myself and reading up on the subject. I purchased a TF-100 test kit and came up with worse numbers than Clearburn...pool water reading 5200 PPM with the calcium hardness test and tap water reading 2500 PPM. I saw chem geek's response so I started scratching my head. I decided to purchase a TDS meter from HM Digital to verify my findings and show chem geek that us guys from Vegas know what we're talking about. I recieved the unit in the mail today and immediately went to test my pool water. It tested at 942 PPM TDS. Hmmmn...so I tested my tap water. It tested at 488 PPM. OK fine. I donned my glasses and re-read the instructions and noticed I was multiplying by the wrong factor of 10, putting my calcium hardness at 520 PPM in my pool and 250 PPM in my tap water. Thank God the numbers in the playing cards are big enough for me to read ...
RickstersPool

How do I decrease water hardness levels in my pool

Postby RickstersPool » Wed 19 Oct, 2011 17:23

Watertreater wrote:One thing I would reccomend is you contact a local water treatment company. I do NOT mean a pool company. Those guys generally dont have a real education. Contact a local water treatment buisness and ask them for a test bottle of polymer. If they ask you what for tell them you want to drop TDS, Hardness, and Unfilterable solids out of solution. Usually a few bucks will get the job done. You will need to mix this solution into a 5 gallon bucket, stir very well, allow to sit for about 15 min, then pour all around your pool. Aggitate yoru pool with a boat paddle or a water hose under water. Do this for about 15 minuites. Walk away for about 30 minuites. Come back and check... if all goes well you should see everything that WAS in solution sitting on the bottom of the pool. At that point you can use an automatic pool cleaner. Adjust pH to 7.0-7.8 and shock the system to a moderate free chlorine level. DO NOT SWIM in the pool for 48 HOURS. Allow all chemical levels to steady, checking your pH and Chlorine levels as often daily as you can. If your FREE Chlorine level keeps dropping you have something alive "alge" that is being burned by the chlorine. Check for nitrites. Usually you can use the same water treatment company you purchased the polymer from to have the tests run for next to nothing. Usually they will not make reccomendations but their products are stronger, cheaper, and they know how to test for them better.

Let me know if you have any questions as I frequent this site.


Does anyone know what "polymer" he's talking about?

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