What is the correct order?

[Guest]

hi all,

I'm a little confused as to the order of things when it comes to pool chemicals.

Currently my 20000gal gunite pool is very very green and cloudy, i can literally just barely see the second step.

I've read here alot and on other sites, and i'm confused as to what to add, and when. I have a test kit, and i have some algecide, and some borax and some ph increaser and decreaser, and a bucket of 3" tablets for the inline chlorinator.

But i haven't added anything yet. Some people say put the tabs in, and add 3 buckets of liquid shock, others say add granular shock to kill the stuff on the bottom. Others say add borax and bleach.

On the other side, i've heard that i should 'shock' last, and that first i need to get chemically balanced first, but what does that mean?!

Any help here would be appreciated, and if this has already been addressed, i'd appreciate a link... thanks!

[Guest]

hi all,

I'm a little confused as to the order of things when it comes to pool chemicals.

Currently my 20000gal gunite pool is very very green and cloudy, i can literally just barely see the second step.

I've read here alot and on other sites, and i'm confused as to what to add, and when. I have a test kit, and i have some algecide, and some borax and some ph increaser and decreaser, and a bucket of 3" tablets for the inline chlorinator.

But i haven't added anything yet. Some people say put the tabs in, and add 3 buckets of liquid shock, others say add granular shock to kill the stuff on the bottom. Others say add borax and bleach.

On the other side, i've heard that i should 'shock' last, and that first i need to get chemically balanced first, but what does that mean?!

Any help here would be appreciated, and if this has already been addressed, i'd appreciate a link... thanks!

My philosophy on this is to first make the water uncomfortable for algae before making it comfortable for bathers. It's a fact that chlorine is more effective at a lower pH, there's more 'disinfecting power' available at lower pH. So test the pH first, if it's on the lower end of the scale (6.8 or thereabouts) don't worry about it. If it's on the higher end (7.8 or thereabouts) then lower it to about 6.8 to 7.0.

Also test for stabilizer level, if present it will impact the quantity of chlorine you need to shock.

Then you shock to get rid of algae, (at a low pH it'll be super-effective) and filter until the water is clear. You should shock with a chlorine product that's quickly soluble, like bleach or calcium hypochlorite (aka 'granular shock'). Don't use the pucks to shock, they dissolve too slowly.

Then test the water again, adjust alkalinity, calcium hardness, pH, stabilizer (if used) and sanitizer. Opinions vary on the sequence, some say adjust pH first, alkalinity second, don't touch calcium, but I had great success with this sequence.

Note that if you're using pucks you have to keep an eye out on the stabilizer level, the more pucks you use the more stabilizer accumulates, then you reach a level that totally renders the chlorine ineffective and you get an algae bloom.

Algicide you do not need if you maintain an appropriate level of sanitizer and again this ultimately depends on the stabilizer level. The higher the stabilizer level the higher you must maintain a chlorine residual.

You use borax to raise the pH and it has a minimal impact on alkalinity. The dosage of borax needed to introduce a rise in pH depends on alkalinity, it's basically a 'play by ear' situation. pH increaser, calcium carbonate, has a bigger impact on alkalinity than borax, and the dosage should be indicated on the container.

You raise alkalinity with baking soda, available at a pool store near you, or the grocery store, whatever's cheaper. Same with bleach if you want to shock with it.