converting above ground pool plumbing to pvc

[dboyce]

It has seemed over the last couple of years that the length of time that the flexible plastic pipe that we have always used has been failing. We are considering changing to either flexible or solid pvc. Any suggestions?

[Demons1964]

I constructed all the plumbing on my above-ground pool and while it took a while to do, I haven't had a leak yet - and it was my first time doing any sort of plumbing!! My equipment pad is 30 feet from the pool so some of the plumbing is above-ground, some is below-ground. There's a lot of bends in my system as it goes under a retaining wall and also the hookup to the SWG.

I used all rigid schedule 40 uPVC (or if you're in my neck of the woods it's known as class 12 pipe and the standard class 18 sockets). Mine is 2" due to the large runs/bends and hence large pump but most above-grounds are 1.5" piping. If you make sure you do it properly the first time, it's a very easy DIY project. The only tricky part is cutting the PVC to the right length. I marked all my lengths with pencil and then cut them with a saw, making sure they were 90 degrees flush with the surface.

Make sure you clean any areas you will be joining with primer/cleaner - this is very important because if you miss this step there's a good chance the cement won't take hold. Make sure at this point you're happy with all your lengths, because once the solvent takes hold in the joint there's no pulling it apart. Next step is to apply the PVC cement to both surfaces to be joined. An even coverage to enough depth of the female socket. As you're inserting the stub into the female socket turn the stub 90 degrees to get an even coverage around the perimeter of the pipe. Hold it together firmly for a couple of minutes (the new joint will want to pull apart) and let the cement dry for 24 hours before putting any water in it. You can wipe any excess cement off at this point before it dries.

One last tip: if there's a section you think you might need to pull apart later on install a barrel union.

Hope this helps.

[Ricksp65]

Hi that is what I would like to do this summer how did you connect the PVC to your skimmer out let at the bottom mine is a clamp on slip joint can seem to find a fitting to fit I was going to use a fernco but relly would like a good glue joint.(new skimmer)? and If so what skimmer would recamend do thay have one for above ground with 1.5 mpv pipe tread thanks.

[Demons1964]

The bottom of my skimmer has a 1.5" moulded outlet, so I was able to glue up a 1.5" - 2" reducer coupling. Easy job for me. But in your case I would probably get a new skimmer. Mine is a wide mouth Vogue skimmer and the gaskets have been sensational. They're not that expensive, and to be honest you'll be more limited by what's available for your size wall cutout. Make sure that the basket comes with a vacuum plate.

[Ricksp65]

Thanks sounds good wen we got the pool last summer I upgreaded the filter systom and thats why I think the skimmer olny has a 1" outlet and the pump and filter is 1.5 I wounted to run mi pump on 230 volt to save on power the smaller above ground pumps were not weried for hight volt wen I go to change out the old skimmer I'm a little concernd that the liner will fall down aney thing I should know maby drean the pool some? and if you are useing a sand filter look in to a product called Zeobrite insted of sand you wou't bleve how cleer your water will be I had a DE filter on mi pool at mi old place and relly liked the dimonds in the sun look and relly did not wont to go back to a sand filter but mi installer turnd me on to this stuff and let me tell you the nabors with pools were saying what the heck do you do to that pool the get it to sparkel like that.

[Ricksp65]

Zeobrit dot com is the link this stuff is relly worth looking in to and it is about 25$ US for 25 LBS and you will need 75 per 150lbs of sand and last 7 years under normal swim load and back washing decricesd by 75% love the stuff.