Hello everyone!
I hope that someone can help me. We bought a house with a swimming pool that was so bad frogs were living in it. It was dark green and had sheets of algea coming to the top. WE have shocked it with pool shock and alge guard vaccumed to waste as well as skim the top with a net to remove dibris.
We then lowered the pH to help inhibit further algea growth.
The pool is 45,000 gallons and rectangular according to the paper work left by the previous owner. It is a Salt pool as well. There is a generator on it to make chlorine.
I am a complete novice at pool chemistry and calling someone to help right now is not an option. Right now the pool is a blue cloudy mess with some foam on top. I bought a test HTH 6 way test kit and these are the results:
PH 6.8
CHlorine: 5.1
ALK: 50ppm
Hardness: 0
CYA: 0
I am not sure how to proceed. I was told to use bleach and borax, but I am confused. We have been running the filter for 2 days now and still cannot see even 1 ft. into the water. I hope I have given enough information and I thank you in advance for your help.
Nichole
I am going to try to post a pic later if I can.
New pool owner of pool not used in 2 years
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Journeytaker
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- Joined: Fri 01 Jun, 2007 08:12
Congratulations on how far you've already taken it. You're doing a good job by asking instead of just throwing in chemicals.
Going from an actual pond with frogs to a blue pool is commendable.
You really should keep your pH higher than that with a vinyl pool.
Low pH can cause permanent puckering - but then 2 years of no care may have already damaged the look of the vinyl. Still you don't want to cause further damage. You really shouldn't let pH go below 7.2 with a vinyl pool.
Calcium Hardness and Total Alkilinity both work to buffer your pH.
Your TA is low at 50. You need to get it into the 80 - 120ppm range
You don't need to raise your pH a lot so you can use Sodium Bicarbonate - same thing as Arm & Hammer Baking Soda instead of washing soda - I calculate that it will take 25 to 30 lbs of baking soda to raise your TA to about 90 to 100 ppm and this will also raise you pH probably enough. This is based on your pool volume of 450000 gallons. It should take about 6 lbs for every 10 ppm rise you need of TA.
Add some Calcium Hardness to at least 80ppm to a 100ppm
You need to get some CYA/stabilizer in the pool to help hold the chlorine levels. You should have 50 - 80 ppm. Don't let this get too high because you cannot reduce it except by dilution of dumping a good deal of water.
Going from an actual pond with frogs to a blue pool is commendable.
You really should keep your pH higher than that with a vinyl pool.
Low pH can cause permanent puckering - but then 2 years of no care may have already damaged the look of the vinyl. Still you don't want to cause further damage. You really shouldn't let pH go below 7.2 with a vinyl pool.
Calcium Hardness and Total Alkilinity both work to buffer your pH.
Your TA is low at 50. You need to get it into the 80 - 120ppm range
You don't need to raise your pH a lot so you can use Sodium Bicarbonate - same thing as Arm & Hammer Baking Soda instead of washing soda - I calculate that it will take 25 to 30 lbs of baking soda to raise your TA to about 90 to 100 ppm and this will also raise you pH probably enough. This is based on your pool volume of 450000 gallons. It should take about 6 lbs for every 10 ppm rise you need of TA.
Add some Calcium Hardness to at least 80ppm to a 100ppm
You need to get some CYA/stabilizer in the pool to help hold the chlorine levels. You should have 50 - 80 ppm. Don't let this get too high because you cannot reduce it except by dilution of dumping a good deal of water.
One more thing.
2 days of running pump 7/24 is not long when it comes to the conditions you describe.
It could take a week before your filter can clear up all the dead algae in your water.
Vacuum and backwash daily and keep running the pump 7/24 until this clears up.
Keep your chlorine levels on the high side of the range.
2 days of running pump 7/24 is not long when it comes to the conditions you describe.
It could take a week before your filter can clear up all the dead algae in your water.
Vacuum and backwash daily and keep running the pump 7/24 until this clears up.
Keep your chlorine levels on the high side of the range.
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Journeytaker
- I'm new here
- Posts: 4
- Joined: Fri 01 Jun, 2007 08:12
-
Journeytaker
- I'm new here
- Posts: 4
- Joined: Fri 01 Jun, 2007 08:12
-
Journeytaker
- I'm new here
- Posts: 4
- Joined: Fri 01 Jun, 2007 08:12
In what order should I do these things. I just read that the CYA stabilizes the bleach(Chlorine) since I have none in my pool should I start by adding the CYa and then begin with bleach?
My ph level has risen to 7.2 just by aerating the pool today. I still have not added anything yet.
My plan of action is this: CYA
Chlorine/PH
Alkalinity
calcium
I am still brushing the sides and vaccumming as well. I am just not sure what should come first. the CYA or the Bleach or can I do both at the same time.
Thanks
Nichole
My ph level has risen to 7.2 just by aerating the pool today. I still have not added anything yet.
My plan of action is this: CYA
Chlorine/PH
Alkalinity
calcium
I am still brushing the sides and vaccumming as well. I am just not sure what should come first. the CYA or the Bleach or can I do both at the same time.
Thanks
Nichole
It's fantastic that you know aeration increases pH. You are a quick study.
You are correct the CYA stabilizes chlorine. Too much though, is not good.
Most of your dry shocks and tablets have stabilizer in them. Just don't use them all the time or you will get your CYA too high and if you use Cal Hypo you will also be increasing your calcium. The dry shocks tend to lower pH and liquid chlorine tends to raise pH.
In your case, I don't think it matters all that much which order you do it.
You are correct the CYA stabilizes chlorine. Too much though, is not good.
Most of your dry shocks and tablets have stabilizer in them. Just don't use them all the time or you will get your CYA too high and if you use Cal Hypo you will also be increasing your calcium. The dry shocks tend to lower pH and liquid chlorine tends to raise pH.
In your case, I don't think it matters all that much which order you do it.
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