Postby Buggsw » Fri 22 Jun, 2007 01:22
Well, if your water turns blue when you add chlorine, it's not copper turning it green.
If it were copper, it would turn green when you add chlorine. You may well have some copper in your water, but what I'm saying is, it's not high enough of a copper level to affect the chlorine.
Pool store and builder guys, always say 100 isn't high. Well, it is high.
High enough that you need to keep your free chlorine at a minimum of 8 ppm to be effective for swimming and you need to shock to 25 ppm to get rid of combined chloramines and kill growing algae. Some CYA is good, in the 30 - 50 ppm range is ideal - it is like sunscreen for your chlorine, however, too much and it lowers the effectiveness of your chlorine - it won't let it do it's job.
It will take 12.5 gallons of regular Chlorox to bring your chlorine level from 0 to 25 ppm and you must keep it at 25ppm day and night, until it holds at 25 all night long. So, until then, you will need to add more chlorine in the morning and perhaps another time or two during the day to keep it up to 25 ppm. Once it holds all night long, you can start to let it drift down to no lower than 8 ppm. So 8 - 16 ppm for swimming and 25ppm for shocking when your CYA is at 100 - 200 ppm.
It's also high enough, that you shouldn't use stabilized chlorine tablets nor trichlor or dichlor shock, which all continue to add more and more CYA to your pool. If your tablets are Cal Hypo, you don't have to worry about CYA, but you do have to worry about getting too much calcium in your pool. It's all about the numbers.
Without real numbers, I cannot tell you much more.
bleach and try that next.
