cloudy green water

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pooldad07

cloudy green water

Postby pooldad07 » Thu 21 Jun, 2007 10:56

I am hoping Buggsw is out there becasue you really seem to know this stuff. 30,000 gallon in ground liner with all new equip. My levels on my test strip are all ok to high. I will get levels if needed. However, no matter what do I get the green mess that always starts in the deep end and then takes over my pool. I want to try and eliminate what is causing this. Other friends check theri pool weekly and have no problems. I check mine daily as it seems like 1 day can turn my pool green. We are in a wooded area so my pool does not get too much sun whcih I read that is also a cause as it helps the little green algaes reproduce faster.

My pool guy, who has been doing this for 30 years, has helped but even he seems curious why I am always getting algae. He says most of the pool places here dont really have qualified people to anylize water properly. I just shocked my pool with 2 bags of shock but may run down and get 10 gallons of food lion (on sale :-) bleach and try that next.

It seems like chrlorine and pool circulation are the most important and I feel my pool has both...let me know of any help or what I can do to elimate possible casues...


Buggsw
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Postby Buggsw » Thu 21 Jun, 2007 23:22

Aww, you are too kind. There are many others who are better than I. Backglass helps out a lot and he's real good with this stuff, too. Chem Geek and a lot of others.

I definately need a full set of test readings. Strips are okay to use when you don't really have problems, as a quick check but you really need to use a real test kit at least once per week when your water is good. When you are out of balance you need to always use a real drop based test kit.

Get a drop based kit that can test for Total, Free and Combined Chlorine, pH, Alkalinity, CYA and Calcium Hardness, at least. It's best if you not only get a basic OTO test kit for chlorine but also a FAS/DPD test kit for chlorine. There not hard, after you've done them a few times.

So let's start there. You may have to take a sample in for further testing of metals, phospates and other things.

I suspect you probably have a very high CYA, but we won't know until you provide a real set of numbers. I cannot help you dose correctly without numbers and also without knowing your pool volume in gallons.

With all the greenery around, you may just have a high phosphate level, especially if you don't vacuum the leaves and such out right away.

You know what? Everyone should check their pool daily for at least Chlorine and pH. It takes about 2 minutes!
pool dad 07

cloudy green water

Postby pool dad 07 » Thu 21 Jun, 2007 23:59

I just did a post 2nite on the algae page called "shock and awe"....my pool builder and chemical man does not think cya is it (he has been doing this for 30 years). He says mine is just below 100. Pool is 30,000 gallon in ground liner. pool is 1 year old with new equip. He now wants me to have my well water checked and likes to avoid spending money for chemicals. He too uses chlorox to shock pools when he opens them. I ujse the 3 inch tabs in a chlorinator set on 1 1/2 which has kept my chlorine perfect on the strips...

I used 9 gallons of bleach 2nite. The war has begun....I was wondering about copper or otehr metals from my well? from time to time I add water from the hose and we are looking at any ideas. My pool sits in a wooded setting with large pines around but not a whole lot gets in the pool. I keep it clean, backwash etc. They also want me to take my well water and have it checked for metal, nitrates etc. pool temp is aroubd 86 so maybe the little green critters love the temp....

If you read the other post, sometimes my water is clear and liner is green other times liner is perfect but water is green....makes no sense to me. I restored an old Delorean and that was easier then keeping my pool clear. Let me know what you think....
Buggsw
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Postby Buggsw » Fri 22 Jun, 2007 01:22

Well, if your water turns blue when you add chlorine, it's not copper turning it green.

If it were copper, it would turn green when you add chlorine. You may well have some copper in your water, but what I'm saying is, it's not high enough of a copper level to affect the chlorine.

Pool store and builder guys, always say 100 isn't high. Well, it is high.
High enough that you need to keep your free chlorine at a minimum of 8 ppm to be effective for swimming and you need to shock to 25 ppm to get rid of combined chloramines and kill growing algae. Some CYA is good, in the 30 - 50 ppm range is ideal - it is like sunscreen for your chlorine, however, too much and it lowers the effectiveness of your chlorine - it won't let it do it's job.

It will take 12.5 gallons of regular Chlorox to bring your chlorine level from 0 to 25 ppm and you must keep it at 25ppm day and night, until it holds at 25 all night long. So, until then, you will need to add more chlorine in the morning and perhaps another time or two during the day to keep it up to 25 ppm. Once it holds all night long, you can start to let it drift down to no lower than 8 ppm. So 8 - 16 ppm for swimming and 25ppm for shocking when your CYA is at 100 - 200 ppm.

It's also high enough, that you shouldn't use stabilized chlorine tablets nor trichlor or dichlor shock, which all continue to add more and more CYA to your pool. If your tablets are Cal Hypo, you don't have to worry about CYA, but you do have to worry about getting too much calcium in your pool. It's all about the numbers.

Without real numbers, I cannot tell you much more.
pooldad07

Postby pooldad07 » Fri 22 Jun, 2007 06:35

thanks for the advice..after first shock pool looks nice and cloudy this morning :-) stage 1....only question is you mentioned going from 0 to 25. My pool is usually around 10. So I assumed that I was shocking from 10 to 25 and not 0 to 25. ANyway so far so good. I will add more bleach and keep it high for a another day or two....and keep the free chlorine high for swimming....
pooldad07

Postby pooldad07 » Fri 22 Jun, 2007 07:35

If I dont use the 3 inch tabs what else can I use? My pool builder did not think CYA was a prob because its a new pool that was only open half the year last year. We drasined it 12 inches for winter and then refilled...He called it chlorine lock and really has never seen it on many of his pools, especially newer ones....thanks
Buggsw
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Postby Buggsw » Fri 22 Jun, 2007 11:25

Optimum levels of CYA is 30 - 50ppm. 100 ppm is too high.

Chlorine lock is a result of either too high of TDS (Total Disolved Solids) and or too high of CYA.

You cannot correct either, without dumping more of your water and refilling. It may take 4 or more times of lowering it by 12" and refilling and that would be fine to do. Vacuuming to waste and refilling can help lower it some.

If you don't want to dump over 50% of your water, you need to stop using stabilized tablets and switch to using unstabilized chlorine. Liquid would be best. The only unstabilized tablets I know are cal hypo and that is whole 'nother conversation about calcium levels. Plus, you must NEVER use cal hypo pucks in a feeder that has had dichlor or trichlor pucks. Very dangerous - can cause explosion and fire.

If you continue to use the tablets/shock, you will most likely still need to add liquid chlorine to keep your Chlorine level high enough to fight off algae. Else you will continually wake up to algae bloom and can quickly go into swamp conditions.

Stabilized tablets add anywhere from 1 - 3 ppm of CYA each and stabilized shock can add .6 - .9 ppm of additional CYA per application.
That's how easy it is to get your CYA up to 100 in a short time. 30 to 100 pucks per year is all it takes to go from too low of 0 cya to way too high.

Don't get me wrong. Tablets/pucks are convenient and okay to use, when you start out correctly and understand what you are doing. I use them when I go on vacation. But, once your CYA get's out of ideal range they are problematic. If a pool gets drained yearly - by all means use them all the time during your season.

You might consider switching to an automatic liquid chlorine dispenser (not too expensive) or a salt water chlorine generation system (a bit pricey).

No matter what system you use. A pool is expensive enough of an investment that regular monitoring and good care deserve appropriate attention to keep it pristine and in good shape.

Using tablets and throwing in a bag of stabilized shock regularly may seem like a panacea, but they are not, in most situations. Automation doesn't replace the need for regular monitoring, either.

Seriously, this all may seem like so much hard work. It is if you go into it blindly and haven't learned the chemistry of it all. But really, it's not, once you get the hang of it - you learn the personality of your pool and maintenance can take a couple minutes a day and a few more on the weekend. It takes a lot less time to keep it maintained than to correct a very out of balance pool and fight that pesky algae.
pooldad07

Postby pooldad07 » Fri 22 Jun, 2007 14:02

thanks for the great advice....pool looks great now. about 90% clear. I will add 3-4 bottles 2nite for good measure. My reading just showed a bright purple which is about 25 fc so its holding the level you like. I will run the tabs the rest of the summer. If you can give me a shock strategy. My pool guy says most people shock with 2 bags of calcium hypochlorite once a week and they have no probs. How about 10 gallons of bleach once a week??? or should i use the 2-4 bags of shock weekly. almost there....thanks
Buggsw
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Postby Buggsw » Fri 22 Jun, 2007 14:44

I don't know. If your calcium hardness is within range, pick your weapon.
Just shock to 25 ppm, whatever you and your PB decide.
pooldad07

Postby pooldad07 » Fri 22 Jun, 2007 21:09

couple final questions that may help other people too. Just let me know if any of these can cause or lead to algae in my or any pool.

thermal pool cover.
pool being in wooded area
ph being low (I had heard low ph lowers chlorine effectiveness)
temp of pool. (our thermal cover keeps our pool warm)

thanks for all your help....my pool held 25 all day. I am adding 3 gallons chlorine tonight just to give it one last little shock....

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