Diagnosing a source

Causes and cures for cloudy swimming pool water.
Milky pool water, white, pink, brown, purple, black cloudy water.
jac1008
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Joined: Thu 30 May, 2019 13:47

Diagnosing a source

Postby jac1008 » Thu 30 May, 2019 13:52

Hi Everyone,

Desperately need some help with this. Have been battling this cloudy pool problem for a while now. I have never had this issue before so I am kinda scratching my head as to solve it. Here is what it looks like:

Cloudy Pool Pictures:

https://imgur.com/a/bI7a14w

I had the water tested at a pool store last week. The combined chlorine was high. I figured that would have been the case, so I let it sit for a few days since I figured it would die down. Could that be a cause?

I have been running clarifiers and chlorine through it with no progress. I filter 24/7 anyways, and have never had this problem in the past. I haven't changed the sand in the filter recently, but given how the filter was running last August I can't see how it drastically degraded this much. When testing this morning the PH levels weren't perfect, but weren't drastically out of range either. The pool is 60,000 gallons so it is difficult to completely control those levels without spending a ton.

This morning I shutdown the pump and run liquid flocculant into the water. I did this around 8 am, and to this point have seen little progress. I'll let it sit until tomorrow but I am trying to be proactive.

When testing, phospates were also very high.. But i am unsure that would matter

How else would you diagnose this? Any ideas? My assumption was the cloudyness was literally dirt particles, so if the flocculant dosen't seem to be affective I am not sure how to fix this. Any ideas? Filter Cleans? etc.

Thanks for any help guys!


Teapot
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My Pool: 12 x 24 (45m3) liner pool, Triton TR60 filter with AFM glass media (Activate) and variable speed pump running 0.08HP
Location: UK

Re: Diagnosing a source

Postby Teapot » Thu 30 May, 2019 23:25

Please can we have the actual water figures and details of your pool filtration and pump.
Combined chlorine shows that you need more free active chlorine to shock the pool. Shock is a process not a product. It's raising the chlorine high enough and long enough to oxidise the combined chlorine back to 0-0.5ppm.
The pool industry uses flocculant in the wrong way so effects are not that good.
Denniswiseman
Pool Industry Leader
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Posts: 1206
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My Pool: 10k inground fibreglass, Telescopic Cover, Hayward Powerline pump, Quality filter with glass media, 27kw output heat pump, K-2006C test kit
Location: United Kingdom

Re: Diagnosing a source

Postby Denniswiseman » Fri 31 May, 2019 03:00

Adding to what Teapot said
With your high CC you need to Slam (Shock Level and Maintain)
Your shock level is dependant on your CYA as indicated in the Chlorine / CYA Chart with relation to Recommended Pool Levels
FC:
TC:
pH:
TA:
CH:
CYA:
You really need to get yourself a decent FAS/DPD test kit (Taylor K2006c or TF Testkits TF100) to get accurate results as maintaining an appropiate shock level means testing quite often during the day

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